Bucky

Nice lot of finished projects. I actually owned a 1972 Buick Skylark with a factory folding roof, so your Camaro caught my eye!

Could those skinny tires at the bottom of your photo possibly be from a Johan early classic kit, such as a 1931 Cadillac?

And, if it fouls up, it can probably be removed and replaced with fresh BMF.

I have seen a bottle of Bare Metal Foil adhesive offered on eBay. Has anyone here tried using it on a pesky sheet of BMF?

Incredible! Very well thought out! Beautifully executed! Top shelf work! This is one of those, "Wish I'd thought of that!" moments!

Thanks for the info. That will come in handy when I get to that step on my build.

Great looking rear panel. Did you foil the whole panel before you blacked it out?

Nice and bright! Every new step you take really enhances that color.

Incredible Dodge! Very realistic looking in that setting. Where did the uptop come from? I looked back at the build thread, but may have missed it.

I prefer to use Tamiya tape. I have it in a dispenser, but learned to cut off at least the first half inch or so before sticking it to the model part. Somehow, that first part of the tape loses its stickiness. I also use the blue painters tape, and even have some green painters tape. I don't usually have a lot of problems with them. To cover large areas of a model body, after I place the tape in position, I use wax paper with tape along the edges. Never had any paint get by the wax paper.

I know there were paint daub inspection markings all over the underside of MOPARS from that era. Also, certain parts had identifying marks and stripes, letting the line workers know which part the build sheet called for.

I would love to see Dodge jump back in the NASCAR water. I just hold my breath, hoping it's not Joe Gibbs bunch changing brands.

I didn't much like using EasyOff. Too messy for me. I used brake fluid for several years, and had good results. But, for the past four or five years, I've been dunking them in the Super Clean. I removed some unidentifiable gold paint from a '67 Cougar gluebomb with Super Clean, and it came out looking as if it hadn't been painted at all.

I think they came out great!

I'm holding out for the, "Where is the Best Place to Offer an Expensive Kit with a Botched Paint Job for Trade?" thread.

What gets me is that all his questions pertain to the same subject and could have been posted in the same thread, IMO.

I can see where knowing how to reload shells might come in handy in our favorite hobby. That way, when you mess up a paint job, you can take the model out back and shoot it! Put it out of its misery!

Oh no! Now, I gotta grow mildew so I can turn out spectacular paint jobs like yours, Steve!

Is that a fine point Sharpie, or regular tip?

Am I just imagining this, or did he mention in an earlier thread that he plans to spray a metallic paint through that airbrush?

I used algebra at the nuclear plant every day, but it didn't make me a better painter.

Just a smidgen thicker than water. How's that for a measurement? LoL

As far as the answer you got from the company, it seems to go along with pretty much all the answers you were provided by the fellow members of this forum.... you know, the guys that actually paint model kits.

Dude, it seems to me that the main thing slowing you down is YOU!

Those backwards flames are a sort of testament to the explosive character of a Pinto! LoL Keep the good work coming on this one!