Bucky

PM coming yer way, Mr. Steve!

Great tractors! Brings back memories of my younger days on the farm, although I never had the luxury of a cab on a tractor. I have some of the newer tractor kits in the stash, such as the Porsche, but would love to see these two brought back.

That looks great! I'll hafta consider using some of that. BTW, nice ceiling fan!

Splendid build! Old school custom, all the way!

I use the jelly roll pens, too. It's a fairly easy way to get the white letters.

Looks like you're fairly close on this one. As Mr Guthmiller suggested, maybe a few more light coats of clear, let it cure out a few days, and then go at it with a polishing system. I wouldn't toss it in the stripper until I tried to polish it out, first.

Yesterday, on the way home from a doctor's visit, I saw a 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger being trailered south by a brand new Ram 1500 Quad Cab pickup. The Dart was a very shiny black with a red tail stripe and vinyl top. Couldn't see the interior. That whole rig was travelling faster than I was!! Naturally, I never have my camera when I need it!

with Santa Claus

up your nose

A striking color!

It looks great, especially with the red stripe on it.

I ordered #208 and #209 from them. They arrived quickly, and in stiff cardboard sleeves, so I got them in perfect condition!

Coming together very nicely! I like the taillights!

Actually, the way I'm reading Rust-Oleum's response, the second paragraph is absolutely about clearcoating over decals. However, I don't see Rust-Oleum's answer to the other questions in your letter to them.

I'd be interested in a couple of those grilles, too, Mr. Steve. I have two interior sets on order.

1960 had fins, too. Plymouth, Dodge, Chrysler, DeSoto, Cadillac, Chevy, Ford, and others. Chevy and Ford fins sort of laid down flat, though.

First time I've seen one of these being built. I keep searching for one of these kits, but they always seem to go beyond the old bank account! Carry on... I'll be checking it out!

Great info! I learned something I didn't know before.

Looks kinda like a Monte Carlo body. Could the flares have been added on?

Trying to practice on these "already ruined" parts won't give any better results if you don't first remove the old botched paint and clean the parts. For example, if the botched paint job has a grainy, almost rough feel to it, no matter how perfectly you apply the new test paint job, most likely it will have a grainy, rough feel to it, as well, leading you to believe you aren't doing any better. You ask these questions, and these grizzled veterans of the model-building hobby have given you all kinds of important advice and suggestions. It seems that you disregard their advice because it isn't what you want to hear. Most of these guys agree with each other, with a few variations. However, just about every model-builder has a technique they use that others don't use. They learned their techniques by practicing. I've been building these things since 1963, and I have never achieved the perfect paint job. Probably never will. But, I have certainly backed up and started over, and at least did better the next time on some of my builds. I've had a couple that I stripped the paint off of at least three times! Buying products to strip paint, for me, is less expensive than chucking a kit in the bin and buying a new kit, just because I messed up the paint.

Good info. I have two VL's and no H. Gonna hafta remember about the bottles.

"What Irked Me Today?" Not having enough hours in the day to what I need to do, and want to do! LoL

Mean looking Chevelle! Newport, TN, eh? My ancestors are from that area.

In my opinion, and from past experience, the only way to achieve a good paint job is to start by stripping off the bad paint job. I use Super Clean to strip my projects, and it has given me good results. I think it's best to start with freshly cleaned model parts.

Walmart in Lawrenceburg TN has a nice selection of Round 2 kits. First time in several years for this particular store.