Anglia105E

Having seen first hand how good these Moebius kits are Gary, I shall probably be on the lookout for a Chrysler 300B at some point. David

Thanks David E. . . . I am pleased to say that the red enamel paint has now dried, after 4 days . . . (normally 24 hours). Those pointed cotton swabs by Tamiya sound like an interesting option, so I will look into that. David

I would say go for the kit at the hobby shop Bob, and you won't be disappointed. It is so enjoyable to build. David

Thanks Carl . . . I regard Hudson motor cars as the Rolls-Royce of American motor cars. David

Okay thanks . . . Fair enough David

Thank you Steven Guthmiller . . . I fully expected the sharp pointed needle to remove the BMF from the surface of the delicate script, but by some miracle the BMF was unharmed . . . My main concern was that a cotton bud, or indeed the sharpened tip of a toothpick, would cause thinners to drip onto the trunk bodywork in between the actual script. I am notoriously clumsy when it comes to this aspect of model building, and even with great care I was expecting to make a mess of things. Certainly, I would agree that the soft wood is more forgiving than a metal tipped tool. Somehow, I have removed two coats of black paint and two coats of primer to reveal the BMF script. Do you have any thoughts on the Humbrol red enamel paint not drying after 3 days ? Much of my painting is with Humbrol products applied by brush. Thanks, David

Thanks Steve Martin . . . I do realise that a sharp pointed needle is not the ideal tool for this job, amd I have probably been lucky to get away with it ! David

Well guys, there has been some progress with this Hudson, and I have to confess to something that goes against all of the advice offered recently. I considered using a cotton bud dampened with Isopropyl Alcohol to reveal the trunk script . . . and then I lost my nerve ! I then considered using the rounded tip of a cocktail stick / toothpick, again dipped in Isopropyl Alcohol, but again I could not do it . . . What I decided to do, and you may throw your hands up in horror . . . I carefully used the point of a long needle to scrape away the paint from the BMF underneath. This seemed to work quite well, although I was holding my breath through each letter of the script. The BMF does not appear to be damaged. Moving on to wire up the engine ignition, I have not been able to find my grey plug lead wire, despite an exhaustive search of the loft space. I am certain that I have some, but it remains hidden. I thought about ordering a new pack, which is very cheap, but the shipping cost is six times the cost of the item. Then I found some 0.3 mm brass wire, which compares nicely with the 0.4 mm plastic wire that I used for my previous Hudson engine. The brass wire will have to be painted grey or black, and I have drilled holes where the spark plug tips were. I cannot drill the distributor cap, even using the smallest of three Revell hand drill bits. Both air cleaner canisters are coated with Humbrol 19 Gloss Enamel Red, but after 3 days the paint remains too tacky to handle the parts. Might have to spray some gloss enamel varnish over the Humbrol red enamel . . . Outside temp has been 20°C and the window is often open. Why not drying? Oh, one last thing . . . I cut off the pin that locates the oil filter onto the engine block, with careless use of my sprue cutters. Drilled a hole in the oil filter bowl and cut off a short piece of a drawing pin, which was super glued in place. The metal pin fits tightly into the hole on the block. David

You are doing a great job with this '52 Hudson Hornet convertible Steve, and I am currently building my second '53 Hudson Hornet, also by Moebius. The quality and fit of these 1:25 scale Moebius kits is excellent, and they have managed to go one better than the other big kit manufacturers. Just the instruction sheet alone is a lesson to show how model car kit instructions should be done. Glossy photos, clear step by step text and accurate assembly diagrams. I am finding the instruction sheet a joy to follow. Your plan to have the lower half of the car matching the red interior should be highly effective Steve . . . You were lucky to pick up this kit, albeit under sad circumstances. Although the '53 Hudson is my favourite for some reason, I would like to build a '52 and also a '54 later. David

While paint is drying and curing on the body parts of the Hudson, the engine is being assembled and painted. Apart from the fitting of the oil and air filters, as well as the decals for the Twin H Power air filter canisters, and some ignition wiring the engine is almost ready to put to one side. So far, I am enjoying building this second Hudson Hornet as much as I did the first one . . . The Moebius instruction sheet is a joy to follow ! David

I have not heard of Touchwood Models, Harald . . . This is going to be an exciting project of yours ! The 43° incline of the track is quite something. I shall be following your progress with interest . . . David

Lots of blue bits on the Cosworth V6 in that Ford Sapphire . . . Does that say ' Massey Haggis ' on the front of the Massey Ferguson ? David

Good selection of interesting cars there Les . . . One that I particularly like is the Rolls-Royce hearse for some reason, and that is how a proper Ford Escort Twin-Cam should look . . . four big Cibies up front ! David

Well done with the SSKL kit Harald . . . and your diorama is really coming to life now. Your figure work is excellent. Shame about the tyres on the Bugatti. I am sending you a PM about a figure that I shall be working on soon . . . David

I really like this diorama of yours Charles . . . There is such a lot going on there. The whole scene does not take up a large amount of space, in terms of ground area, but you have included three trucks, a trailer and a skip, as well as the concrete ramp, the wall and eight figures. This looks good from all angles actually . . . As usual, your attention to detail regarding the scrap metal and surface textures is outstanding ! Well thought out composition. David

Thank you, Steve Martin . . . David

Four excellent builds of yours Mr Guthmiller, and some expert chrome work too ! Thanks again . . . David

You have made a good point there, Steven Guthmiller . . . I was thinking it made sense to apply the clear over the revealed script, once the script has been cleaned up. Having not used clear before on my painted model cars, I was overlooking this step, so thank you for pointing that out ! I particularly like your script work on the yellow car, the black one and the pink ( is that a Pontiac GTO ? ). David

Thank you Steve . . . I probably need to use either Humbrol Enamel Thinners, or maybe Isopropyl Alcohol . . . David

Thanks, Philip ! David

Preparation is under way to commence building my second 1:25 scale 1953 Moebius Hudson Hornet . . . This is such an enjoyable kit to build, and both the quality as well the fit of the parts is outstanding. Whereas my first Hudson was finished in a two-tone paint scheme, this one will be single colour, using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer Light Grey, Tamiya TS-14 Black, and Tamiya TS-13 Clear. At the moment, I just have one question, which I am sure has been covered previously . . . The ' TWIN H POWER ' script on the trunk lid is barely visible, and although I did not apply chrome to the first build, this time I have applied BMF to the script, before the primer stage of the painting. Please remind me, how do you reveal the chrome script, after primer, black and clear have been applied later? Thanks . . . David

Here are my three 6 -cylinder engines . . . Moebius Hudson Hornet, Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud with Franklin Mint diecast engine, Tamiya Jaguar MK 2 and Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud with my designed engine, as 3D printed by Shapeways . . . David

Many thanks, Larry David

Cheers, Chris David

Thanks, Donato David