R. Thorne

Building a model of my old race car. Only clues to the color are it was sprayed around 1970 and was not a metallic, I think. Sort of a lime green or olive drab ?

A little work with my cordless drill, coarse sanding stick, and 1/2” drum sander with no sandpaper but wrapped with masking tape to fit the tire makes short work of the center flashing.

Oh, yes, criticism, comments, and suggestions are always welcome. That is one of the ways we learn and improve.

While waiting on some parts for another build, decided to build this out of the box “easy” one of a car my Army buddy had in 1970. Nothing fancy here, just fun and experimenting. Sanded down some sharp seam lines, sprayed body and chassis with Tamiya, no primer, “chromed” rear backing plates, tried to chrome some trim with a new marker, cut the tires out.

I like it. My slump busters rarely ever bust a slump, just send me down a new rabbit hole. M/SP cars were one of my favorite classes, especially blown like yours. Thanks for posting, now, time for another?

Yes.

While waiting for parts, I decided to work on one of those (should be fun, but minimal efforts at detailing) models. In the process, I decided to save my “good” sprue cutters and use my Dspiae ones. I have used the 3.peaks nippers for the past 3 years, try others, but always come back to the “good” nippers. Anyway, just thought I would show the difference between removing as much of the nub with each pair of nippers. Also, the difference in jaw opening is readily apparent. Obviously, I gave up using the Dspiae ones as it just caused a lot more sanding (not my favorite pastime). p.s. I just ordered another pair of 3.peaks for $22.00 on sale as a backup to the backup pair I have had for a year. The first pair is still going strong.

Change the title to “a lot more accurate “ . Nice, clean, job with a lot of attention to detail.

Then some stainless steel for the rotors and GreenStuffWorld chrome for the wheels daubed on with a micro brush. Next step is to make some molds and castings of headers, trans, tire, and air cleaner base before I can finish the model.

Slow going. Decided to get a bunch painted at once for future builds. Primed some wheels and rotors and the Quadrajet, then some gloss black. Some Titanium gold for the carb.

Thanks for the reply, Tim. Model kits, I guess, have always caused a certain amount of head scratching and wondering why certain things are done, but they are still an awful lot of fun.

Well, once I get going, it is hard for me to stop. The 47?-56 Olds is smaller overall in dimensions and considerably weaker than the 57-64 Olds-Pontiac. Luckily, I had some kits and built models to look at and it appears that Revell missed the boat on the 1963 Stone Woods & Cook and the Revell Skippers Critter kits as they have the HO33 Eaton rear in them. I have included some of my models and kits pictures to elucidate this. Close inspection of the rears (specifically the bolts, singular and plural) will help. I have been accused of being too damned particular as they are “only models”. Perhaps so, but, if I am going to do something, I am going to do it to the best of my knowledge. I also find this interesting .

Appears to be an HO33 Eaton. A little more fuel for the fodder, courtesy of The Jalopy Journal.

By the way, I used this adapter for a cut off wheel out of a Harbor Freight cheapo grinder set, drilled a hole in the air cleaner the size of the screw, and mounted it in my cordless drill. This allowed me to sand it down to the shape of the air cleaner base.

On further investigation, the Revell Anglia kit comes with an HO style Eaton rear end (not Olds Pontiac), which, oddly enough, has a bolt on type inspection rear cover along with the removable front center section. So, 2 sets of bolts on 1 rear end?!!

Your input is much appreciated. I have the Zona 35-241 thin slot on order. We shall see how that works out. Spent some time fabricating a performance air cleaner base that a lot of guys use and is worth as a tenth of a second on some cars. Used the stock air cleaner from the Moebius Chevy 2 kit and some .010” styrene. I plan on making a mold and casting a few for future builds. Still have some finish work, but almost there. Also, cut off the Chief Joseph quadrajet (great carbs, as almost everyone knows) with that great cutter I got from UMM-USA.

Uhh, that rear end appears to have bolts on the rear cover, unlike the Old-Pontiac rears (pic included). Thank you for all you do for the hobby.

Guess you have seen the Brian Lohnes YouTube video that covers this car and the quad Allison vehicle. I wish you the best of luck.

Lots of work and attention to detail. You might consider moving the driveshaft loop up front behind the trans.

I sometimes use Aleene’s tacky glue, but most of the time use just a very small amount of either Tamiya’s extra thin cement or CA glue. I guess I don’t have the patience to wait on PVA to dry as I want to build right then.

I broke down and ordered issue #222 from Spotlighthobbies . I am going to check it out, then subscribe, if I like it. I miss Scaleauto mag. At least you sold one issue, Tim.

Do they fit a regular hobby knife or only Tamiya’s pricey one?

Harry’s car has been on my list of builds and parts are acquired, but I keep getting interrupted by Stock Eliminator cars. This is the man himself and his beautiful car. Not to diminish your work, Tim. You know how I feel about your contributions to modeling. If this is inappropriate, please advise and I will, of course, remove this post.

Well, after bragging about my new tools for cutting straighter lines, the next 2 wheels turned out worse and varied about .030” from one side to the other and required tedious hand sanding to straighten them. If anybody has any suggestions, let’s hear them. Good old coarse sanding stick to the rescue.

No magic here. Just Tamiya ts spray paint. Gold, then clear red (watch out for runs). Anyway, after a break of a few days, I am back at it making the 14” (1/25 scale .560”) resin wheels into 10” Stock Eliminator wheels (1/25 scale .400”). I have done this on other wheels (narrowed them) in a miter box with double back tack to hold them in place and did so again on these, but did not like the results. The razor saw(s) always seem to cut crooked and require a fair amount of truing up. Looked for something better and my new specialty jewelry pliars and saw worked much better. Hopefully, you can see the difference between them.