89AKurt

Just got a tip on another TR7. This one has been collecting dust in an undisclosed location. The guy had a nutty idea for drag racing it, so it's rough. He didn't like the vinyl roof either, what were they thinking? I'm digging your garage diorama.

Heard through the grapevine that you work on these orphan unloved Triumphs, and that you had the ability to make them better than original. Put me in your schedule for your next project. ? Seriously, loved the introduction! I do have this for a future project, conflicting with the 50 other projects I want to do. The thing with this curbside series, they are decent bodies, with the plastic axle one piece chassis, which will get switched for a Corvette. Look forward to your WIP! ??

here's a towel.

You dog! ? You finished it! ? I have the kit too, have crazy plans for it. Dealing with the front grill and bumper looks like a pain, was that the most finicky part? Did yours have a blemish on the right side at the beginning of the fin? You didn't try to use the photo-etch taillights, I wasn't thinking of using those parts either. Knowing all this, very impressed you did so well. ?

Committed to the wheels. Something I do with this type of wheel (found on Tamiya, Fujimi, Aoshima) that has a lip in the back, is to grind/sand it off. Next was to correct the brakes. Removed most of the back "axle", left about 1MM, which also required the pin to be reduced. Then I drilled the holes, and added some. The calipers should reach towards the center more, but not going to correct that. Used a bicycle spoke for the axle because it fit the best in the nylon thingamabobs. Chucked in the cordless drill, and used the Dremel disk to chamfer the exposed end, and a groove at the glue end. Modified the front a-arms to be round so there is clearance for steering. I think this looks much better. Now I'm having an issue with the rear axle location, it somehow moved back a couple of millimeters. The transaxle locater pins weren't changed, so it's a mystery. I've broken apart the rear parts twice already, so one more time....... Then the outside dimension of the mounted wheels will be evaluated, I can reduce that a little still.

Thanks for validation. Cool thing is, I have the Aoshima set too which has different tires but looks like the same wheel mold. I'm also liking the higher aspect ratio tires.

with green lasers

Saw this Pontoon Mercedes along the highway north of town, this location seems to be a car dealer or collector. I grew up with a 1961 190, this looks like a '59 220. Don't like the color they chose, but it's close to being done.

What 914 kit is that? Thought I had everything I wanted........ BBS wheels look good with about anything.

You're a nut, just like me! Look forward to watching this build.

I have 2 wheel sets to choose from. I prefer the first one.

Sorry, I had a flashback.

carrying a snubnose

Thanks! This is the forth project where I've done this (Celexus Porndy Mongrel), haven't seen anyone else do such a kitbash. One thing I don't like about these tires, they seem to be narrow. Front should be 255/40 R18, rear 295/35 R18 (11.6142 inches) but they measure 11mm, should be 12.3mm. I have a few sets of Fujimi tire/wheel sets, will evaluate. Since I don't like the funky brake/wheel engineering, I might as well fix that too.

You are an artist, not a mere model builder!

now I'm hooked.

First fitment with the wheels on the chassis. Needs more work.

Thank you. There are times that I need to see what someone has done, to learn something. Maybe this will scare everyone from trying the same thing. ? Used the hot-wire for many cuts tonight. First was whacking the rear apart. Didn't need to cut the length at all at the rear, fit almost perfect. The front got about a foot whacked, the aero tray will need a subtle air dam. First time fit with the wheels mounted on the suspension. I'm pleased that the wheels almost fit, the flares will be minimal. The chassis is still not up in the body here, so it will sit lower. Note about the Revell kit: They made it so the brake calipers say fixed, while the wheels turn. But the disks don't turn. The disks are between the wheel halves, which is not even close to accurate. I usually don't like the wheels to turn, because I flatten the contact patch to give the impression of weight. Going to contemplate fixing that....... and drill the disk holes. ? And the instructions do not show how the tire treads go, they are different block pattern inside and outside.

chucking up hairballs

Chassis modification done tonight. Did one side, eyeballing where to glue the A-arms back, and basically hoped for the best. One side is done. Back wheel and suspension part on the left are modified. The rear wheel tub was cut with the hot-wire, now glued back together. All done by eye. The aero shields may need modification, won't know until it's temporarily glued back together, with the brakes and wheels added on.

class action lawsuit

filled with powder

I didn't try it. ? I know it doesn't look like much progress, most of the time was spent figuring out where to narrow the track. First was to find the specifications: Ferrari 330 GTC V12 3967 cm3 / 242 CI 300 BHP 6600 RPM 287 lb. ft. Wheelbase 240 cm / 94.49 inches Front track 140.2 cm / 55.2” Rear track 141.7 cm / 55.79” curb weight 1433 kg / 3159 lbs Ferrari 575 M Superamerica V12 5748 cm3 / 350.8 CI 508 BHP 7250 RPM 434 lb. ft. Wheelbase 250 cm / 98.43” Width 194 cm / 76.38” curb weight 1730 kg / 3814 lbs Shorten 10 cm / 3.94” Narrow 53 cm / 20.59” Let the bench racing begin. Since it's 1/2" = 1' - 0" scale, drew out the basic dimensions. Then I tried to figure out where I can narrow the track, and think I have a plan that isn't too much hacking. The 330 measured at the centerline of the arches is inaccurate, but works perfect with this chassis. I can take 6 MM total, which not enough, but the flares won't be giant. At the rear, 1 MM can be taken off each wheel, 2 MM each side for the suspension part. The assembly order can be changed when I cut the half-shafts, so the rear tub can be glued on with those suspension mount parts. The back end of the chassis is going to be mostly removed, the mufflers will move towards the center 3 MM. Mocked up the exhaust manifolds, it will be tight when moving the suspension in 3 MM each side. The frame rails will be cut out and moved inward. I can't glue the wheel tubs on until the shocks are put in, some modification of the tabs will be done. The front of the chassis will also be reduced substantially. Started cleaning up the small resin parts. Found some bubble holes on the louver parts. I noticed there is a gas cap when looking at pictures, it wouldn't be hard to duplicate, but I use copies of the Tamiya Isuzu Vehicross cap on all my custom projects, I think it's perfect.

with horse glue

Fun project! That the Jimmy Flintstone COE?