absmiami

Man. The engine looks so great in that chassis .... this kit is calling me ....

BANG The carb is missing - but not for long ... In the mean time - I’ve cut and attached the windscreen with some TMM Hardware - they make some nice slot head screws - and some RB Motion nuts. The kit windscreen is long gone - so I cut some thin clear plastic - got the shape right on the fourth try -

So the first spring clip was attached. - but there wasn’t enough room to get the second one attached. - I’ll probably make a clip without the eyelets and glue it next to the first one - scale casualty ...

Wow. I’d love to see that Auto Replicas 24 sc Bugatti... The exhaust pipe needs 2 spring clips. I made two with some steel wire - .005 - wrapped / wound around some .012 brass and glued in some eyelets that the train modelers use ... I ruined onE of the two - making them wasn’t too bad - installing them - now that where the problems started ...

So this is interesting - owned a ‘73 Charger with the base 318 engine - Would this be a logical source for said engine if I decided to build my old car - oh was that front bench seat terrible ! ...

Very very nice ...

The Merit Bluebird kit is unobtanium. One of their kits that I do NOT own... some dispute about the scale. - estimate is 1/35th scale - question for Bugatti fan. - I’ve been studying the Bugatti type 13 Brecia with the 2 litre engine and the type 16 / 18 special with the 5 litre engine - the one with the tapered tail ... Do you happen to know of any scaled drawings of either engine ???

Thanks for showing off the Flathead before installing ...

I was wondering when this build was going To be migrated to the road racing category ... bet the moderators left it in the model car cat months ago thinking I’d be finished soon. And then during the server upgrade they saw it there - still - and said what the h_ll. And then sent it over ... which is fine ... I like confusion - it suits me ...

The exhaust pipe leaves the front of the cylinder head just behind the drivers head and curves back along the frame ...it’s a Herb Deeks white metal part - thanks Herb! notice anything missing in the engine bay ?

Last few parts - made from evergreen. The mount for the exhaust pipe is set onto the chassis brace above the mount for the shock. And I madE two curved braces that grab the top of the gear box.

The engine cover fell to the floor (again). The break was in the two thin spots where there wasn’t enough resin to withstand clumsy handling. But the breaks were clean - so I’ve drilled in and placed some short .012 brass pins and drilled corresponding holes and glued it all back together. Will need some sanding and some more paint but I’ve got some xtra paint left over ... could’ve been worse ...

Thanks mr tier ... what’s on your work bench ?

NEAT !!

BUILD IT BUILD IT most of the pattern markings could be masked and painted and you could scrounge up some dry transfers for the white lettering ...

That sump is ... sumptuous here’s what the sump looks like on your 24th scale casting. well call this “junior” ...

That’s why I asked you to produce the Indy Ford engine in 25th ... and thank you .. there are these kits available - the Indy Lotus 29 kit in 25th scale the AMT Indy Lotus 38 kit in 25th scale ... - the ‘68 - ‘69 Gurney Eagle kit in 25th - the 24th scale Finecast Lotus 38 - more on this later ... Indycals has made a very limited production 25th scale Lotus 38 Indy kit - don’t have one but it looks good ... and Silvercity is working on some Gurney Eagle kits - probably in 25th scale ... Forget about the 25th sc AMT Lotus 38 - way too small - nothing will fit - but the other kits present some possibilities ... the small scale castings of kit engine covers are over scale in thickness - by a lot... as a result, a true scale 24th scale engine won’t really fit into a 24th scale kit - but a 25th scale might - I’m working on this .. . for instance, your 25th scale Indy Ford engine casting is still slightly longer and taller than the engine casting in the 25th scale 1968 Gurney Eagle kits -obviously those kit engine castings were scaled to fit into the kit engine bay without regard to scale accuracy - I’ve been working on a 24th scale ‘66 and ‘67 Gurney Eagle body casting that I think will take your 25th scale Ford Indy engine. And or the stock block engine - it’s complicated - I’ll post some photos once I’ve dragged the Cooper Mark IX across the finish line ... ... im putting away the can opener. - there’s worms all over the place ...

Strange. I’m 3 yrs older - the workbench doesn’t seem to age ? ... ??

So the axles are in and the uprights are “pinned”. The axles run right up against the shocks - the U joints are small but probably still a bit over-scale ... the stance is not quite as good as the test fit 8 months ago- the left rear wheel is about a scale inch off the ground - I’ll use a couple of tricks to improve the stance slightly - but I smell a points deduction on this ... got to remember to delete this post ...

You’re velcome ... you can do a working susp with these ... can’t on the Cooper - The combination of plastic and brass makes these parts too fragile to allow for susp travel. oh well ... paint finish on axle and U joints is Alcad polished steel over Alcad steel - works well -

Well. The seats look good on my phone ....

That’s ok reverend Davis That’s ok reverend Davis U joints / evergreen strip - .080 by .100 - filed and sanded to shape with .020 holes for the pins - which are Scale Hardware .07 rivets - through a brass yoke made of soldered .08 brass tube ... Weeeeeh ....

Before finishing the axles and the U joints I’ve gotten the unique Cooper torsion bar on - that’s the black curly cue thing that’s perched on top of the leaf spring ... and the stance is OK. - not perfect - but it’s close to what I want ... I know that the wheelbase difference front to back looks odd - but the Coopers ran a narrower rear suspension ...

Rear susp assembly is proving to be difficult - fitting, tweeking, re-drilling holes, more test fitting ... and an unscheduled survey of the workshop floor in search of a wayward upright.

Made and installed the new fuel pump - it’s driven off the back of the transaxle . Of course - I then found the first pump - which had gone missing ... the pump fittings are RB Motion banjo fittings ... and installed the oil tank after some mods to the shape - had to lower its profile to fit under the engine cover with the tank cap - which is a white metal part fr the parts bins ...