absmiami

each shock has an outer disc that I punched from .005 copper sheet then I made the clips - that look like mechanical spiders these are hand filed from additional machined nickel discs and then simply marked black with a sharpie the shocks are attached with some castle nut castings from that Russian aftermarket company - they make the nut/bolt assembly in different sizes - I am drilling holes in the 1.6 mm size and then cutting them from the bolt casting - probably finish these with a silver sharpie - the real things are cast and therefore have a relatively dull finish ...

some more assembly shots not sure - but I think the disc for the middle leaf is a bit thicker - I made these about .015 thick - in contrast to the thinner outer leaves ... then made the brass posts for the chassis pickup points

here's how they are made the joint is tricky - used silver solder for strength and hand filed for the taper the fine cutting saws sold by UMM are helpful here ... you may have seen these made in larger scale on the excellent Voisin build on the BritModeler site ......

so I also need to make the friction shocks - most pre-war race cars had these the delage had opposing pairs of these shocks left and right on the rear suspension and 2 more sets of shocks under the chassis fairing up front for these I'll use model factory pico's castings the rear shocks - seen here - are made from pieces of nickel silver - discs and bars soldered and then bolted together with an .070 mm section of bolt the discs - 3 in each shock - are turned on a lathe - .010 width and about .190 width - which is just less than 5 scale inches

so the pickups are cut off of the L bar stock and then glued to the chassis with some pins for accuracy - they will get nuts after painting - and strength the second picture shows how the cross bar meets the pickup that will be made later - the plastic rod is in place to check height for the pick up

next - the brakes - front and rear - are cable operated - off of levers the front brake cable lever pivots from a cross bar running from the top of the brake drum to a pick up bolted to the chassis - probably not a great idea - but this was actually carried forward when the 1927 Delage was designed ! there are some very good pix on page 1 so I made the chassis pickups - left and right - from some evergreen L bar and a short length of br tube think the tube is .047 then drilled the perorated patterns with a number 82 drill - so just about .010

good time to stop and do a susp mockup to check ride/chassis height caliper checks on front and back - think I've got it right - looks pretty even will have to check the width - front and back - also ....

must've been snoozing ... finished the wheel knockoffs - each one got a little better made some solder corrections to the first one and I've got an acceptable set of four

yes - definitely order those carbs ...... they are great

next the radiator ??

and yes - the sans birdcage is 1/10th scale ....

yup ..... the Sans' birdcage pix are still out there...

wondering if you - or anyone else - recalls the photos of Manuel Sans' 12th scale birdcage model ?? It was featured at least twenty five years ago in Vintage Motorsport mag there may still be some photos of it on the net - there may still be a site for his builds ... anyhow - I always wanted to try that - or something close to it - in 24th sc and you beat me to it! and yes - your frame looks every bit as good as the 12th scale Sans frame .....

thanks for the answers - I don't use my hole punch set often enough .... ..... and I've got the hots for your steering rack insert your Mel Brooks punch line here ...

and the wheels may indeed be gorgeous if I paint them well ... I'll take a bow for the hubs but Pico has to take a bow for the printed wheel rims and tires scratch-building these components in 1/24th would be treacherous. in fact - these are the only proper 24th scale grand prix tires on the planet - for the 1923-1928 grand prix cars - think Alfa, Bugatti, Voisin etc. .... Profil 24 makes quite good tires - but better for the following era. .... by using properly drawn 3D printed parts - I just have to follow the dots and do the assembly - and use fishing line and not steel! Pico - are you bowing?

so wheel nut II came out al little better but still had to figure out how to solder the silver bar onto the turned part at a close to 90 degree angle got better on that on wheel nut III so I'll do a couple more ....

OK - the wheels are done - maybe not - mite try to "unwire"" the first wheel that was strung with steel and replace with fishing line the shapeways parts are made with a very tough material that I think will survive this surgery - but I'm not sure - thinking about it ... now on to the wheel nuts - again depicted in the photos on pg 1 will make these from nickel - could make them from plastic but the nickel finish will contrast nicely with the dark blue wheels - so away we go ... the first wh nut - shown here - was not so great ... tried a slightly different approach for wh nut II have to file a well defined slot onto the top of the "nut" and solder a bar across that when finished - is integral to the nut surface - then place the part back on to the lathe to drill the opening for the end of the axle - 1/16 hole ...

holy cow .... yeah - I missed this thread too .... questions - the sub-assembly soldering on the de dion tube - are you using different temp solders and/or different settings on your soldering iron ?? did you use the same solder base/platform that you used for frame 1 ?? how are you marking and drilling holes in the brass sheet - as you know - your drill bit will wander every which way unless you've got a sort of divit in the brass sheet to guide the drill bit .... the leaf springs - are they nickel silver or what ?? you still planning to make the bonnet from brass sheet? you're a brave man ... I think you've got this thing figured out - but just in case - I've got the Joel Finn birdcage book if you want to check something .....

super photos, JC I have not read the whole thread wasn't there an AMT or Revell Parts pack 427 engine ??? would be 1/25 th ...

bottom "wire" - strung per Pico's pattern and then the top wires everything came out great - the last path of wire worked its way out of the groove at the top of the hub - but that is easily fixed glued the beginning and ends with super glue and away we go .... per the page 1 photos, the wheels will be painted royal blue probably some Tamiya acrylic that I picked up in a small hobby store - that's right - a hobby store! - in Queens ! no less ...

gone fishin' Pico's recommendation to use monofilament line for the wire wheels was not random works much better than the steel line of the same diameter as you wind the line in and out of the holes and around the hub it twists but this stuff is easy to un-twist so everything come out straight and tru lesson learned .....

and by the way Tim - the answer is Mars Bonfire .......

thank you Mr. Harrisburg ... I'm only 126,000 views behind your Bantam dragster - and catching up fast !! there is a third dimension somewhere in the modeling universe wherein we will find all of our lost model parts - from which someone will someday assemble one great model car ....... the back of the steering wheel gets a couple of wires, and a ring and collar to attach the steering wheel to the column the wires wrap around the collar and then disappear under the instr panel they connect the buttons on the steering wheel to what ??? probably something to do with the ignition and probably a necessary safety feature added in the restoration .....

the renshape sandwich is filed/sanded down close to the outer edge of the rim and then chucked onto a foredom hand drill the shaping is finished on the fordom with sanding sticks. then - if you go back to page one - the wheel rim on the restored car has some tape and a section of some sort of string or cord done here with thread which is coated in floquil lacquer glaze the tape on the rim is about a 1/16 inch strip of old masking tape that is real sticky - wrapped and "painted" with a sharpie real hi tech !

steering wheel ..... Profil24 photoetch rim plus renshape drew the outline and shaped the holes with a reamer and sanding drum then glued the renshape sandwich with epoxy and drilled the two small holes on the rim spoke the renshape is not really wood - but kinda looks like it in scale, the wood grain - renashape has no grain - isn't really visible so this will do