bobss396

I have a funny resin Cadillac body tale from my club, maybe 15 years ago. One guy in the club, no longer with us, was working on a '49 Caddy resin custom for about 8 months. Every meeting he brought it in to show progress. Fast forward to our annual show, he brings the finished Cadillac. Another guy in the club also brings a resin-body Caddy custom. It beat the 8-month project in the customs class. I had never seen the 2nd car prior to the show and I asked the builder about it. He just shrugs and says he built it in 3 weeks and had it done just before the show.

NASCAR Mystery Motor article: https://over-drive-magazine.com/2022/08/19/1963-chevrolet-mystery-motor/ It caused quite the stir for the '63 NASCAR season too,

Something like .047" brass wire would do it, maybe something like .016" or .032" brass strip x 1/8" or 3/16" wide. If you could find it in that width. I did the front fender reinforcement thing on a stock car body. I used a piece of .010" aluminum (chimney step flashing), bonded it with CA glue and it worked. Maybe that would also work in your case.

I have a stock car, another stalled project..., with a similar decal problem. The paint is Duplicolor white, polished out, no clear. I used JnJ decals and some Polar Lights decals, some of them fall off quite easily. I have to look at what I used to polish it, Meguiars Show Car Glaze. If it has silicon in it, that could be MY issue.

I also do the tape thing, good old hardware store masking tape is probably the best. I used some vinyl tape years ago on some resin wheels. I took them apart after at least 10 years and the adhesive from the tape reacted with the resin, it was a gooey mess. I could save the wheels. My brother had some bigger tires on a wrecker project, same issue. I gave him part of a pool (foam) noodle to try. The noodle ID was small enough, all he had to do was cut it enough to fit inside the tire. It worked quite well.

I use only lacquer thinner too. I use a small jar for it, chuck it after it gets too murky. I have a bunch of good Mack brushes and the rest are general use sable so they hold up over the years.

Nice work! I have one started myself. The engine is complete and the chassis and cage are painted, gloss black. I'll look at the PPP tires, maybe some Ron Coon wheels would be better than the kit ones. Most of the other parts are cleaned up and are in prime. I could go with a #3 Len Bohler car, leaning towards a Richie Evans tribute car too.The instructions are vague regarding the rear panel fits, maybe I will pick up an Ol Blue kit. A couple of things I don't like, the glass is too thick and so is the side screen. I'll look at making up something else.

I'll have to look at references before losing the vent windows. This us a pre 1973 Era build.

I sanded all the fabric off it. So it is bare. Using a 3D printed racing seat.

I expect to have to open up the floor a bit, once I get the 250, with the 4 speed, I'll have a better idea. So the pan and firewall will stay off for now. I have it posted in the NASCAR WIP forum.

This 1st attempt using my phone. I started on a 1951 Chevy figure 8 stock car recently. I had an old partially built kit I bought years ago. So far I have most of it roughed out, cage and chassis are done, tires and wheels picked out. Seat and fuel cell are Ron Coon items. I'm trying to replicate a type of car that ran locally around 1970.

I have considered it. I would think of laying a piece of brass rod hidden under the door openings.

I have a serious Jones to build that brown LTD...

I will try to take pictures later on, I have to dig out my good camera or try posting from my phone. I am a little on the urban-amish side at times... So far the build is on day 4 and I have a lot done. I'm waiting for the 3D 250, it may impact the floor pan, my biggest fear. I have lots of it pinned to make assembly easy, put angled plastic stock on the interior sides to hole it better for final assembly. I have a built up Fleetline I need to look at for some questions I have on the front end assembly. I'm sort of following what I recall from the early figure-8 days at the local tracks. I have seen some videos from around 1970 (world championship) that are great reference. The RF safety hubs came along at a later date. Most F8 cars were close to stock before 1975, like any other class they evolved.

I started one on Sunday, the hardtop version I got years ago partially built. I had to rip the rear out, broke one leaf spring, an easy fix. It is going back in with 3/64" brass rod. I'm going to pin the entire front end in a similar fashion. I was considering another 6 engine, the AMT '60 Chevy truck has an excellent one. But no speed equipment. My car will be a figure-8 stock car. I ran across a nice 250 from VCG resins, they also make a stock version. The body will be modified, no corrections will be made outside of thinning the window openings. On the hardtop kit, the rear and front glass are separate pieces.

A completely new-tool '63 and '64 would be cool. I'd like to see a '63 box-top roof version.

Keeping that glass nice and clean is a model in itself. Well done.

Nice days of decals... I'd be looking to commit hari-kari at the day 2 point.... nicely done!

I have heard about holding the primed model up to a mirror with a strong light behind it to reveal flaws. I tried it once in a bathroom setting... it does work. I usually take my glasses off and look it over carefully with a good coat of primer on it.

I would attempt to make a mirror-image replica from styrene using the good side as reference. Over size, then whack the bad one off at a 45 degree angle, cut the new piece to fit. I would make the inner structure first so that the glass has a nest to fall into.

I started using Mr, Hobby primers a few months ago, good stuff but $9.99 a can. Duplicolor, you cannot miss with that. I have also used some SEM and Transtar auto body primers with lacquers.

I will have to dig it out, I put all my stalled... I mean in process work away for my holiday house cleaning. The ribbon has 2 textures depending on which side is up.

At shows, whoever I go with I tell them, do NOT let me buy any resin bodies. I have made rare exceptions in the case of something Norm Veber has. I did my recent '64 Fairlane stock car with a Big Donkey body... should have used a kit body, would have saved me 90% of the effort.

That is a great red and I like the wheels. I find that I have to test fit everything on a model. I like to "pin" the body to the chassis, front and back, so it goes together the same time all the time. I make up hidden tabs to secure the bumpers if need be. Glass and dash fits... can give us fits. I have been taking about 1/16" from each chassis side before I do anything. I also sand some from behind the rocker panels so it fits together will less stress. I put a radius where it won't show, less chance of scraping the paint. Too many models, the body curves in at the bottom for some reason, quite excessively.

Kit decals or after market? It really looks nice, I try to avoid handling very large sections of decals. It either makes or breaks a build.