Jantrix

Yep. "Junkyard" or "Lot" are the way to go.

I picked this one up recently. A box stock build is planned. However knowing me, I should probably find one or two extra decal sheets.

Thanks very much. It's Krylon Metallic Silver. I'm not airbrush savvy yet.

I don't like the entire idea. There's just too much weird stuff that goes on while driving to chance it by losing concentration on the road. The nav system might see the cars and stuff just fine, but will it pick up road obstacles, wildlife and so forth? Nope, not me folks. I'll drive myself.

Thanks guys. I've got a few things glued together. I'm working on a remote oil filter and the bracket for the supercharger. More soon.

Honestly, I'm not fully committed to either grill yet. But I do have a grill and shell from the roadster I'd trade ya. Shoot me a PM. Some work going on. All the silver pieces will be getting a light wash do bring out the detail and bump up the realism. I'm going to use the stock oil bath air cleaner as my air box receiving air from the Paxton. Exhaust is something I've given a lot of thought to. Rather than spend oodles of time coming up with scratch side dump headers, I've used the AMT headers and I'll be adding exhaust pipes that will drop down under the cab and exit just after the drivers front door kinda Nascar style. Lets face it, zoomies and side dump headers have been done every way imaginable and in my eyes that's reason enough NOT to do it. Still planning on suede metallic black with decals.

Thanks Bill. I found that one also. It's obviously using crank case oil for lubrication.

Thanks Carl. The pics are good as far as I can see.

I want to see the workmanship of your model. The way you post makes that difficult to see. Having said that, post however you want to and don't apologize.

I dig it Chuck, very cool.

Nope. I love those specialized magazines like Overkill, but they are very expensive for a sub so I don't partake. Thanks though. I'm still working on this but nothing worth posting. Humidity is effecting the paint/primer so it's taking longer.

Thanks very much guys.

Intake modified and the new supercharger.

I'm in the process of adapting the centrifugal supercharger from the Revell '57 Ford to an entirely different style engine. What I want to know is, what is the gizmo attached to the supercharger, shown in the red circles on the instructions? I think the weird part that connects them is supposed to be wiring but I can't be sure. My Google searches show a couple of hoses or cables from the Paxton but its very unclear what they are for or where they go. Any help would be appreciated before I start cutting.

Thanks Bob. I've gotten the chassis stretched and the tranny mount constructed.

Seeing as my employer, Honeywell Aerospace, has seen fit to give the entire corporation a seven day furlough , I think it's a good time for a week-long build. And since the new Revell '30 Model A is just begging to be violated , it's gonna be my victim. So far the build plans are thus. Channeled version, no question. Install a Chevy straight six from the AMT '51 Chevy. The dual carb manifold will be modified to handle a four-barrel carb, and the centrifugal supercharger from the new Revell '57 Fords will added. I'll likely scratch build a header. To get the Chevy to fit will require a new tranny and motor mount and the chassis will get stretched 1/4 inch just after the steering box mount location. I'll build some new pulleys and alternator/supercharger brackets. I'll likely use the Model A grill, but it'll be painted. I'm planning a dark matte metallic paint and the engine will be painted in a contrasting color. Wheels and suspension will be from the Model A kit, but I'm going to try to get the nose down a bit. So as you can see I haven't been thinking about this at all. More soon.

Yes. Always in any conditions prime all bodies first. After dry, wet sand lightly with a high grit to get things even (you should not sand through to plastic anywhere in this step, if you do re-prime). Then shoot your paint. In my experience it's not the heat, so much as humidity that causes problems. And in N.C. I know you have plenty of that. Your options are - 1. wait until you have a couple of cloudy days in a row when the humidity is lower, 2. wait until fall/winter, 3. find an indoor AC controlled area to paint in. I'm in Florida. I recommend the latter. Spend the $, get a paint booth. You'll never regret it.

That's because naugas are an endangered species now. Dodge tried to bring it back a while ago but PETA raised a big stink about it. So Dodge decided to use snipehide now instead, because there's lots of them, but they are tricky to find.

More and larger pics please. Are you using a photo hosting site like Photobucket?

Completely agree. Well done.

Something like this then. Thanks Bill. I've never seen this before. I'm going to have to build a model with this setup now.

I think that would make great window crank knobs and any sort of dash knobs in a hot rod. Even a shifter knob if you can find a piece large enough. Seems like the stuff would be pretty strong. I dig it.

Can someone please explain this front suspension to me? I'm not seeing any springs. I see a tie rod and what I think is some sort of panhard bar, which might make sense in a racer that expected to bring the front wheels down hard with some regularity.

Very cleanly done. Good paint with the right amount of gloss for a factory car. Good detailing and foil work. Excellent job.

I agree completely. I usually have one or two in my stash for slump-buster builds.