Oldcarfan27

Does the trim on the driver side slope downward? You can fix it, but it'll have to be repainted. Sand off the side trim and reinstall it straight using plastic strip and super glue.

Congratulations!!! Keep it up!

Boy that joke sure took a long time to get a response! Thanks, Snake. At least YOU got it!

Hello, my name is Patrick, and I have a kitbashing addiction....

Yes, it is an addiction - of which, there is no cure. Gets to the point where you just CAN'T build out of the box, you'll only enjoy building what no one else has! It's so much fun once that bug has bitten you, though.

Here's another one from Tom Woodruff to "wet your whistle" I can't wait to see this one finished, Tom! He also teased me with a caption on the tow vehicle (but no pics?). I'll post them as soon as Tom sends them to me.

Wasn't the AWBS kit 1/25 scale? I once had one and remember it being larger than 1/32, even though the box was smaller.

What no hood clip? Man, this kit is going to tank. Why couldn't they get it right? Blah, blah, blah. ? P.S - I'm in for 2!!

Sorry about the cold you're dealing with, but that photo looks GREAT! That would make an awesome 500pc puzzle.

Believe it or not, the wretched Revell 34 Ford coupe (the one with the too short body) has a separate trunk lid with louvers on it that just may work perfectly for your needs! Hope this helps.

Looks like you've got crazing in there. Start by trying to sand the texture out - esp. on the top, and use a better primer before spraying the black paint on. I think the black paint is too "hot" for the primer you're currently using. Think of the scar as the marbling effect you see on plastic kits molded in metallic colors. The plastic flows in the tool and meets at the other end, but doesn't mix together - thus the swirl look. It also creates a plastic variance where they meet, which is why the paint won't hide the mark.

I just looked up "Winnebago chassis" on search and came up with some bare chassis illustrations, mostly for newer rigs. My guess is, you could use a simple ladder-frame truck chassis and be good. It's not like many of us would be crawling under one to verify if yours is nuts and bolts correct anyway. My first thought was to use the 1/25 ALF fire pumper or the Monogram 1/32 Mack fire truck as the base, depending on your scale. Hope this helps.

X2!! Even the 78-81 would be nice. They could do them as separate nose pieces. Not as expensive as a complete retool.

My friend MisterNNL (Tom Woodruff) sent me these pics of his builds, asking me to post them for him. These are GREAT!

Sounds like the early 2nd gen Trans Ams optioned out with red interior, white paint and blue stripes - very patriotic!

I find it to be the best 400 Pontiac available in kit form. The Monogram and MPC engines have valve covers that are way too small. 67 and later Pontiac covers are quite large and square - almost like BBC, but have a beveled edge around the top. Monogram and MPCs look small, like V6s.

I used the 69 chassis in a few collonade cars. It was the closest chassis at the time and it fits the Johan Cutlass body perfectly! Like the Doc said, I didn't know enough of the details to make a difference. Looked good to me.

I can only hope.

Since it's been a couple years - has anybody got any new builds?

Other than the prices, this reminds me of when department, drug and even grocery stores used to have stock that looked like this.

Bite your tongue!!?

I agree with donating to Veterans hospitals or children's clubs. If the Boy Scouts were still around that would've been a great place to get them into willing hands. Try to donate them to a worthy charity that will help people and not just pocket the profits. Try to find out if there's a children's hospital or if St. Jude hospital can use them for rehabilitation purposes.

Looks close enough to me. But your build must've taken place before filming - there's no damage on it yet! I like how you did the 4 doors.