El Roberto

I tried it and seemed to work just fine. It's weird stuff...looks too thick to spray and goes on kind of ugly, but dries ultra smooth. You do need to use a large tip for spray brush and kick the pressure up to around 24-30 psi. Oh, you do need to shake the BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of it before use.

Badger Stynelrez comes in several colors and is very nice stuff. Lays down flat and sticks very well to styrene.

Don't even try if you value the decals.

Not to mention the chrome carbs.

There's a plane in the pic?

Yep, this one is close to the top of my list.

Ok...what's your pick for the most beautiful car of all time? I'm going with the Cord 810.

Not to mention the $55 he wants for shipping.

Just google photoetch tools or benders.

Try Vallejo matt. Works as well as any other I've tried. Might be my imagination but I think that the Dull Coat isn't as flat a finish as it used to be.

I use plain old hardware store lacquer thinner. Works great for me.

No problems at all. The Tamiya clear colors over the Molotow really look transparent . Be sure to let the Molotow dry completely before coating.

I do it all the time for tail lights, turn signals etc. Works very well. Haven't tried it with anything bigger than a tail light though.

You might try Tamiya acrylic clear yellow or red. They're almost transparent but build up color with additional coats.

Micro sol and micro set are decal setting solutions. it softens the decals so they conform to irregularities in the surface. Wouldn't work for what you are asking for.

Were the wood grain decals from Uschi Vanderrosten?

You might want to test it first using the same plastic and decal brand.

Haven't tried it with body putty yet, but I will. My method for armor models is to mix white glue (Elmer's), water, dirt or sand and whatever color acrylic paint looks right. You can make it as thin or thick as you like and just blob it on with a old stiff brush. Because of the white glue it dries with a shine like wet mud.

Great idea. Did you know that the Tamiya extra thin isn't good to spill on a decal sheet, from one who knows.

Doesn't work for my wife, she's always accusing me of losing something of hers.

Works OK with car windshields, If you are very very careful. Doesn't work so good on aircraft cockpits since they are pretty much sealed up.

You mean like a food dehydrator? Wouldn't think it would harm the Molotow but don't take my word for it. Clear coats don't look real good over it, I've tried and it didn't work very well. The only places I use the Molotow is where the piece won't be handled, like interior hardware or tail light lens. Painting tail lights or turn signals with the chrome then covering with Tamiya clear really works great.

Oooooooooo I have to have that Yamaha DT1. It was my first "real" bike. It hurt me several times but I still love it.

Or go to U Tube and look up painting model cars.