
bill-e-boy
Members-
Posts
749 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by bill-e-boy
-
Thanks for the kind comments. Yes the build means a lot to me and others in the local community that my friend Mike was instrumental in setting up. The club/FB Group is Miniature Petrol Heads (MPH) and it is quite active on FB down this way.
-
I chopped this about 12+ years ago for a friend who unfortunately is no longer with us. It came back to me from his estate so I thought that I could carry on with the build in his honour. It was just the bare body along with a few other Revell 32 bits and pieces and some resin flat motors and speed parts. Original chop - about 3" The top was cut and stretched between a and b pillars and another stretch between b and c pillars It got a coat of pink when I was painting my 32 Sedan project. A quick mockup - tires are from Moebius 56 Chrysler 500B. Rear end lowered about 2.5mm Been working on the front end and I got it 3mm without too much effort. No pix yet Also worked on the resin flattie - whacked off the trans and mounted up a 5-6 speed unit from a Ford modular motor - not sure where it cam from - its not the one from AMT Vickie unit Lots of other stuff happening so will post when I get pix done Thanks for looking
-
Been a month or so for an update on my 32 Sedan build. I have been working to get my 68 Charger across the line and that's now under glass. I noted that the trans I am using is a manual and I also noted I did not have a shifter - DOH!! At least I got the three pedals right So for the shifter I looked at the one that comes with the AMT Vickie and it is rather blah. I then looked at my collection of pins and the round head ones were a bit big. I checked with the War Dept and she has these nice little beads. I cut the head off a chrome pin, super glued the bead onto the pin shaft and applied a good bead of glue and now I have nice round shifter knob. To finish off I painted the knob with clear red and bent the pin to shape. The boot is a bit of tree shaped with a small dab section of round added and drilled out 0.7mm for the pin. Original thought was to paint the boot SG black but sense prevailed and I painted it the same colour as the interior Pins, boot and knob And completed shifter as compared to the Vickie unit Meanwhile the body and guards etc have gone back to the body shop for colour sanding and polish
-
Thank you everyone for the kind comments. The Revell Chargers are nice kits and respond well to the extra effort with the small details.
-
Some things just seem to go together. I just could not resist it 🤪
-
What a cool subject. And the kit looks good and came off the printer well. I had a look at the Cults link and the cost for the file to us is NZ$43 which is about half of what we pay retail for a comparable AMT/Revell/etc kit so there is good value. Ok you have to factor in resin and the occasional snafu which would bump up the cost but it is looking like 3D printing is going a long way to give us access to subjects we would not normally see. The is a guy in our modelling group who has been smashing out things like Hudson Terraplane coupes, 38 Oldsmobile coupe and Tudor and his latest a 41 Chev Panel Van
-
Will be watching. Carl - you did a good job on that "horrible" kit The AMT 40 series may not be up to what we expect from todays kits but I think they are not quite horrible. They were certainly cutting edge for the early 60"s. There are a lot worse out there. Anybody built the AMT 37 Chev lately, and as mentioned the Palmer/Lindberg 40 is most probably at the bottom of the pit.
-
Thanks for the comments guys. Appreciate them a lot
-
Revell 68 Dodge Charger built box stock with a recent restoration theme. Paint is Tamiya LP47 Pearl Blue lacquer topped off with Tamiya clear lacquer. I spent a lot of time with paint detailing of all the small things. Had some issues with getting the stock hood to fit so set it up to be in the open position with the grabber hood as a fall back Am quite happy with the end result Build thread here Thanks for looking
- 29 replies
-
- 16
-
-
I got all the last of the little bits glued on. Door handles, wipers, outside rear view mirror and the small R/T script on the rear panel. Had some issues with getting the hood to fit as the air cleaner was too high. I sanded down the height of the carbs but I could only go so as I would have lost all of the carbs and that did not look right so stopped. I glued the hinges onto the hood so I can display it with the hood up. I also glued up and cleaned the racing hood option with the grabber scoop and painted that SG black a shot with the grabber hood We are now off to Under Glass Thanks for looking
-
Fantastic - this just keeps on getting better and better
-
Looking good. Some very different body and chassis treatments going on here. I like your change to the cowl lines.And, your cut lines are very accurate - I am jealous
-
Ditto A cool project Here is a shot of my current 68 charger build. There may be a difference i wheel base between the Charger and the C300 but I can't see where it is on the photo of your chassis when comparing the two. You would need to put them side by side. If the chassis is longer the only mod would be the driveshaft length. The Revell 68 Charger R/T has 2 engine options - Hemi and 440 so that would be my donor car of choice. The Revell 69 Charger only has the 440 - or at least in the ones in my stash The Revell 68 Charger R/T has 2 engine options - Hemi and 440 so that would be my donor car of choice. The Revell 69 Charger only has the 440 - or at least in the ones in my stash
-
Spent most of my time since last post preparing some of the shiny bit that are last to go on. I have pinned the mirror, door handles and wipers. Also have fitted and glued the front valence in place prepped the rear valance. Neither have clear location pins or other and take a bit of getting right. Front just needed some easing but the was no way to make the install of the rear unit easy. So I glued a lump of plastic to locate the unit. I adjusted the fit while the glue was soft and then gave it another hit of glue. This made locating the rear valance so much easier. I glued that in with clear epoxy. The ticket here is to apply the glue then a a couple of minutes till it gets tacky and the part moves around a whole lot less A number of years ago I made several A4 sheets of New Zealand style personalised number plates and I had just the one for this build And lastly a shot of the depleted parts bin Thanks for looking
-
Moving on with the chassis components. Rear end went in without issues The pre-prepared pile in the parts bin is looking a little of a pile now. I have been over all the door gaps, grill and ventilation slots with Tamiya panel line and given it another polish. And now up on all four It looks a little nose high but the body is parallel to the ground which I think is correct Thanks for looking
-
Chrysler undercarriage color
bill-e-boy replied to DoctorLarry's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
There is some good reference material here. Most of the above concurs with my research for Mopar underbody colours. It gets interesting when you get a full resto job where the whole underbody has been painted as the builders obviously don't like the "cheap" look of unfinished paint work. -
Update - some works on final assembly I glued the chassis sub frame to the inner guards with epoxy and need to bring the two together. A wide popsicle stick, some protective masking tape and a rubber band did the trick The motor popped out on one side so a cotton bud provided the helping hand while the epoxy dried The exhaust pipes do not match up to the Hemi headers and the pipes had been painted. The build is box stock so I could not make new primary pipes form rod or solder to keep within the "Box Stock Rules". I used a soldering iron to provide a localised heat source so I could bend to shape. I then trimmed the pipes, pinned them and glued them in place. When installing the "K" member I found the torsion bars are too short - a spacer from some suitable sized tree did the trick. Sanded to fit and then a dab of semi gloss black and it was installed along with the rest of the front end components. The next step is to do some paint detail and touch ups on the front end and then move on to the rear end
-
Looking good Bob. Liking the colour and that monsta motor
-
Thanks guys. it's been sitting for far too long. Did you ever get the paint issue with the hood resolved? - yup removed paint with Iso-prop and repainted it. I was a bit cautious when I repainted the under hood insulation and only masked around the area and not the whole hood and brush painted the matt black, which brushes OK. Now all hunky-dory
-
A good start to your project. It is not easy to open the doors on a 40 Coupe and then fight the battle to keep it all together. And you chopped the top to boot.
-
Love a little flat motor porn🤪
-
A while since I posted on this build - last post July last year - my how time flies. The Charger was put on the back burner whilst I was side tracked by a couple of other projects, an overseas holiday and life in general. Well it is time to get back to the Charger I had completed the foiling just after the last post and have recently polished out the body. I have been slowly getting all of the little details done prior to final assembly I fitted up the chassis to the body and as not happy with the fit around the front area so puled apart and finessed the firewall and dash areas so it should now fit up better. Time to wait for glue to set up A tray full of detailed goodies. The build theme is a box stock replica stock. Man there is a lot of time spent paint detailing all the little parts and on research to get the right colours and textures. Who said box stock is an easy build A couple of shots of the motor in the chassis with a completed wheel ready to go and a shot of the interior and motor mounted up ready to go into the body which is in the background Thanks for looking
-
Kool collection of Dueces - good luck with the show
-
For the small amounts of paint required I use a concave shaped freeze (frost) plug. Just wipe it off when done - or got it wrong and you need to start over