bill-e-boy

Will be watching. Carl - you did a good job on that "horrible" kit The AMT 40 series may not be up to what we expect from todays kits but I think they are not quite horrible. They were certainly cutting edge for the early 60"s. There are a lot worse out there. Anybody built the AMT 37 Chev lately, and as mentioned the Palmer/Lindberg 40 is most probably at the bottom of the pit.

Thanks for the comments guys. Appreciate them a lot

Revell 68 Dodge Charger built box stock with a recent restoration theme. Paint is Tamiya LP47 Pearl Blue lacquer topped off with Tamiya clear lacquer. I spent a lot of time with paint detailing of all the small things. Had some issues with getting the stock hood to fit so set it up to be in the open position with the grabber hood as a fall back Am quite happy with the end result Build thread here Thanks for looking

I got all the last of the little bits glued on. Door handles, wipers, outside rear view mirror and the small R/T script on the rear panel. Had some issues with getting the hood to fit as the air cleaner was too high. I sanded down the height of the carbs but I could only go so as I would have lost all of the carbs and that did not look right so stopped. I glued the hinges onto the hood so I can display it with the hood up. I also glued up and cleaned the racing hood option with the grabber scoop and painted that SG black a shot with the grabber hood We are now off to Under Glass Thanks for looking

Fantastic - this just keeps on getting better and better

Looking good. Some very different body and chassis treatments going on here. I like your change to the cowl lines.And, your cut lines are very accurate - I am jealous

Ditto A cool project Here is a shot of my current 68 charger build. There may be a difference i wheel base between the Charger and the C300 but I can't see where it is on the photo of your chassis when comparing the two. You would need to put them side by side. If the chassis is longer the only mod would be the driveshaft length. The Revell 68 Charger R/T has 2 engine options - Hemi and 440 so that would be my donor car of choice. The Revell 69 Charger only has the 440 - or at least in the ones in my stash The Revell 68 Charger R/T has 2 engine options - Hemi and 440 so that would be my donor car of choice. The Revell 69 Charger only has the 440 - or at least in the ones in my stash

Spent most of my time since last post preparing some of the shiny bit that are last to go on. I have pinned the mirror, door handles and wipers. Also have fitted and glued the front valence in place prepped the rear valance. Neither have clear location pins or other and take a bit of getting right. Front just needed some easing but the was no way to make the install of the rear unit easy. So I glued a lump of plastic to locate the unit. I adjusted the fit while the glue was soft and then gave it another hit of glue. This made locating the rear valance so much easier. I glued that in with clear epoxy. The ticket here is to apply the glue then a a couple of minutes till it gets tacky and the part moves around a whole lot less A number of years ago I made several A4 sheets of New Zealand style personalised number plates and I had just the one for this build And lastly a shot of the depleted parts bin Thanks for looking

Moving on with the chassis components. Rear end went in without issues The pre-prepared pile in the parts bin is looking a little of a pile now. I have been over all the door gaps, grill and ventilation slots with Tamiya panel line and given it another polish. And now up on all four It looks a little nose high but the body is parallel to the ground which I think is correct Thanks for looking

There is some good reference material here. Most of the above concurs with my research for Mopar underbody colours. It gets interesting when you get a full resto job where the whole underbody has been painted as the builders obviously don't like the "cheap" look of unfinished paint work.

Update - some works on final assembly I glued the chassis sub frame to the inner guards with epoxy and need to bring the two together. A wide popsicle stick, some protective masking tape and a rubber band did the trick The motor popped out on one side so a cotton bud provided the helping hand while the epoxy dried The exhaust pipes do not match up to the Hemi headers and the pipes had been painted. The build is box stock so I could not make new primary pipes form rod or solder to keep within the "Box Stock Rules". I used a soldering iron to provide a localised heat source so I could bend to shape. I then trimmed the pipes, pinned them and glued them in place. When installing the "K" member I found the torsion bars are too short - a spacer from some suitable sized tree did the trick. Sanded to fit and then a dab of semi gloss black and it was installed along with the rest of the front end components. The next step is to do some paint detail and touch ups on the front end and then move on to the rear end

Did some looking around for Thickstun products for a 32 5W build and found these on the interweb

Looking good Bob. Liking the colour and that monsta motor

Thanks guys. it's been sitting for far too long. Did you ever get the paint issue with the hood resolved? - yup removed paint with Iso-prop and repainted it. I was a bit cautious when I repainted the under hood insulation and only masked around the area and not the whole hood and brush painted the matt black, which brushes OK. Now all hunky-dory

A good start to your project. It is not easy to open the doors on a 40 Coupe and then fight the battle to keep it all together. And you chopped the top to boot.

Love a little flat motor porn🤪

A while since I posted on this build - last post July last year - my how time flies. The Charger was put on the back burner whilst I was side tracked by a couple of other projects, an overseas holiday and life in general. Well it is time to get back to the Charger I had completed the foiling just after the last post and have recently polished out the body. I have been slowly getting all of the little details done prior to final assembly I fitted up the chassis to the body and as not happy with the fit around the front area so puled apart and finessed the firewall and dash areas so it should now fit up better. Time to wait for glue to set up A tray full of detailed goodies. The build theme is a box stock replica stock. Man there is a lot of time spent paint detailing all the little parts and on research to get the right colours and textures. Who said box stock is an easy build A couple of shots of the motor in the chassis with a completed wheel ready to go and a shot of the interior and motor mounted up ready to go into the body which is in the background Thanks for looking

Kool collection of Dueces - good luck with the show

For the small amounts of paint required I use a concave shaped freeze (frost) plug. Just wipe it off when done - or got it wrong and you need to start over

I appreciate the comments Steve as I know you build mostly replica stock kits. The carb colours you have shown are spot on. I too have built the occasional replica stock models and it is a challenge to get all of the different colours correct. Lots of time doing research and taking photos of real cars when the opportunity arises. One of my current builds is Revell 68 Charger being built with a theme of as a recent restoration. Lots of time spent mixing colours to get the correct sheen and/or shade for the smaller components

Steve - your attention to detail is phenomenal. I recently bought for my full size car an Edlybrok carb and it is all bright ally (the Holy I had was giving me lots of grief). Then I bought a BluePrint crate motor for it and it has a big rrs Holy that is all shiny ally in colour - I wonder if I have to ditch it for an Edlybrok when I get it into the car. I appreciate to effort to get original carb colours right but us (kit) Rodders like things on the blingy side of the colour spectrum

Testors jar paint fine. I have used them for years but now mostly use lacquers. In the video above he is using a big tip #2 and he can get away with 1:1 thinning. I use a Badger 200 with a finer tip and I need to thin the paint 1:1.5-2 paint to thinner ratio so that it will spray through the airbrush. I have used lacquer thinners, lighter fluid (clear spirit) and Testors - but that's a bit thin on the ground these days (pun intended) . I have also used a product called two-way thinners which can be used a a slower drying thinner for lacquers and enamel - PPG 4ltr code 0146/4L which you may not be able to get everywhere. By type: Lacquer thinners - speed up dry time and can produce a harder surface Lighter fluid - again speeds up dry time and paint flows well Testors - my go to for Testors enamels but down to last 1/2 can Turps (mineral sprits, mineral turpentine) - I avoid and used to use for clean up (I now use lacqer thinners for this) Two-way - like lacquer thinners but dry time is a little slower I have not tried any of the Tamiya or Mr products with Testors so cannot comment on them General - enamels take a long time to cure - weeks - so allow plenty of time if you want to colour sand and polish. A tip here - do the first colour sand grit and then leave the model to allow the paint to gas out some more then move onto finer grits until the last then leave for another day or two before applying polish. That is why I use lacquers these days as you do not have to wait so long between steps

I did it on this 56 Dodge resin kit. Interior was a bit dire and so hard to mask for the three different colours on the sides esecially so cut the sides out by a combination of cutting with a razor saw and scribing And the results - not as in depth a Steve's but certainly a (naughty word removed) load better than before

A good start on an iconic car You could mordorise the tudor with your skills

Thanks Mathias