Dave G.

By the way, in that time it still won't be fully cured but safe to handle etc.

A few days to a week for safe handling and building, unless you have a dehydrator or paint drying box.

Really the candy coat is a form of clear, just tinted to give the translucent candy color. .

If you want to do anything just take some Formula 1 Scratch out and polish what you have there. Or just leave it alone. I've never been disappointed with Scratch out though, as in it never goes too far.

I'm only going to say this one more time ? the green label with black chair Rustoleum lacquer goes on smooth and polishes easy. Hot acrylic lacquer is never easy imo. Looks like you got more polishing to do there unless you're happy stopping there. Honestly I'd just rather shoot it down with Testors bottled enamels thinned with LT, 3 coats you're done with possibly no polishing and no clear coat. Shoot and run. Decanted Rustoleum 2X enamel will do the same thing. And enamel doesn't blush in less than ideal humidity. Just sayin, look at this link or video whichever shows up:

Exactly, welcome to the O F club of modelers lol ! I really enjoy the classics era cars. Especially 1/24 and 1/16. 1957 down to 1911 or so but especially 30's. Modern does 0 for me. Same for other categories of models too.

So they're building models of things they see probably like what's in their video games. Makes sense because I honestly never saw any sense in gundam, citadel etc models. But I'm 71yo so the transistor radio was a big deal when I was yoooung, there were no electronic devises. Telephones had operators and a two party line was an upgrade. When single came along Single was amazing. I remember in school some kids took on a project in about the 5th grade maybe. It ended up being two girls and myself at one of the girls homes, once another boy showed up and we built a model of a nuclear power plant. The two girls moms kind of directed the activity. But that's about as abstract or to me imaginative a thing I ever got involved in regarding models, cause honestly nuclear power plants weren't even on my radar but the girls were starting to get bumps on their chests and stuff.. But the offer went out for anyone interested in model, to which I was. At that the girls had more enthusiasm than I ever did over it and I was a modeler but of cars, trucks, ships, airplanes.

Let us know how you make out.

I shoot it at 23-25 psi, 25 static, 23 flowing. Or there abouts. Have you ever thinned some of this then returned the unused remainder to the bottle ? A little leaven ruins the whole loaf theory. Water filter in your airline ? As I said except a hickup here or there mine goes on smooth, when I want it thinner I've settled on LT then it lays down even more satin smooth. Best I got for ya except to maybe contact Badger.

Keep us updated on that one, interesting !

Have you changed your distance so it's not going down as wet. And I assume you mean that straight from the bottle it normally shoots fine through that airbrush ? But now is nubby or fuzzy requiring sanding etc ? You might just need to ensure it goes on wetter than in winter, this time of year. I shot white two days ago straight from the bottle and it came out fine. When I thin it I use lacquer thinner these days, goes on real smooth, on the 1/16 Model A fenders I shot last fall or so there was a sheen to it.. Tried water I think last year or maybe two it looked fine wet but dried rough to the touch, a quick scuff with 000 or 3000 grit fixed that. The only other time it went fuzzy was on a 39 Ford sedan roof, I think I just moved too fast on a fairly warm day with dew point in the low 60's. But 000 fixed that.

The green can with black chair Mike ? I've use that in my wood working and on models over craft acrylics and artist acrylics with no issue at all. And it buffs up super easy. These days though I've mostly been using Tamiya X-22 through the H on a body finish if any clear at all.. Someone mentioned clear over Tamiya X-1 black, on old classic cars that stuff is great as is, it doesn't need clear just buff it up. I can't speak on Createx though, still haven't used it probably never will. We each have our own ways and systems though.

I wouldn't be too quick to condemn the airbrush, keep it clean, polish up the needle especially out at the tip end ( the other end doesn't matter) and make sure your seals are good. If your visible spray pattern is good with plain water or thinner it will lay paint down good too. I think your issue is more getting a consistent mix, so if the airbrush is spraying water etc good, you need to thin to where the paint comes out similarly. Go by viscosity not just ratio 50/50 is a starting point that with some paints is dead on and others still pretty far off. It can vary between brands of paint, even colors or matt vs gloss. Your goal is to wipe some thinned paint up the side of your mixing cup with a mixing stick and have it return to the pool below in 1-3 seconds or so and leave a film behind as it goes, do that before you even try a test pattern through the airbrush. If it returns real fast and leaves no film it's too thin, add a dash more paint. And you may need to adjust a little bit for the washer fluid. In 1/1 we used a viscosity cup for enamels. Even in that scale some enamels ran through the cup with very little thinner ( it was a timed flow through a certain size orifice), others 40% thinner. After a while with a cup you get to know just by how it run off the mixing stick how the paint will perform through the gun and hit the surface. That was part of the drill so to speak,the other part was knowing the thinners used according to condition ( temp and humidity). Then lacquers were another affair and acrylic enamels a whole host of additive.

Should be fine with their acrylic thinner. Denatured alcohol should work too, just wipe some on a clear parts tree someplace to check first but it will thin the paint fine, I use it often in Tamiya acrylics. I wouldn't use the LT either, maybe someone else will chime in and say otherwise but I wouldn't risk it personally.

A little too much washer fluid will do it,the paint will pool and such. Washer fluid is a bit more runny than a blend of isopropyl and water will be. Gloss too might flow a bit more than matte or satin. For most craft paints I prefer a blend I make up of iso, water,retarder and a flow aid. It sprays a bit more like solvent paints IMO. I have washer fluid too, it woks but is a second choice, like in DecoArt for instance, that paint doesn't like iso and can even gel up but you can use washer fluid which has methanol in it not iso. Or in DecoArt you can use a mix of airbrush medium and water. Actually you can use that in any craft paint . Just for some, like Apple Barrel, FolkArt ,Craft Smart, Delta Ceramcoat, I've found basically superior results with the iso blend. I have three airbrushes, my car stuff and primers I mostly use the Paasche H. Fine stuff I tend to go with my pushing 50 yo Badger 200 with the .25 tip on it. I like it for metalizer type paints too. Got that as a gift back around 1975, had been using a Badger starter airbrush before that. Then my double action is an Iwata knock off , once I polished up all the needles to that one it shoots nearly as nice as my Badger, if I only had it I could live with it fine but the tips are tiny, very fussy on being clean, the 200 and H are better suited to my 71 yo eyes and dexterity lol. But it does work, well plus I'm not a big fan of double action except in 1/1 spray guns with triggers and in firearms. Just sayin.

If this is craft paint you are still working with then what are you thinning it with ?

You'll get a feel for it pretty quick. I've used this on models but more so on wood working projects and some wood turnings too. I think I have a couple long drop wall clocks I built for people out there that I finished in this. I also mix some of the wood working lacquer that comes in quart cans, some called brushing lacquer, and have airbrushed those. All these lacquers buff up very easy. Some automotive acrylic lacquers are harder and don't always buff out so easy. They also can get brittle with age, brittle on plastic isn't the greatest combo, can end up with cracks in the surface over time. Just sayin.

That green can plain lacquer dries high gloss and flows out well. Just be careful of runs,maybe try it on an old body or test shoot one way or another with it. I did the whole chrome tree on a 49 Ford with that stuff and it came out crystal clear, you wouldn't know it was coated with anything.

I've shot X-1 mixed 1-1 or a little more even, with denatured alcohol and it comes out like glass and the dehydrator seems to increase the gloss. A quick rub with a little Formula 1 Scratch Out and it's good enough for me. It takes 5 coats to look good though, the first two you get a feel for distance when shooting ( with the Paasche H and medium tip you can go 4-5 inches away or I did at least) is about all and they flash off dull so it seems a bit discouraging up to that point, except nice flow out and so smooth. After those two coats you can start to go progressively wetter and gain gloss.. The real gloss pops in the dehydrator. I've only gone to 110f, I'd be curious what more heat could do but you never know about the plastic these days. I saw where one guy cooks paints on models at 130F, I bet enamel would love that temp but I'd be concerned about the plastic parts myself. Acrylics I usually do between 105 and 108. Enamel I do 110 and as mentioned I've done the Tamiya at 110f.

With a dehydrator you don't need to wait a week. Maybe a day or two.

I've used hardware store lacquer thinner which is supposed to be medium dry but added a mix of xylene into it to slow it down a little bit. Xylene is somewhat effective but still not slow enough for warmer weather. What you really want is a slower drying thinner or a little retarder added to faster thinners. The Mr Leveling thinner pretty well covers the need, of which I have none lol .

The FSM armor or airbrushing forum will also have more answers than you probably want to hear lol. But I can tell you personally that water based acrylics will go right over lacquer. As others mentioned a semi gloss/luster/satin clear coat over the base lacquer coat before the wash goes on will help you gain your end result. You don't need to bury the model in the clear, a light coat or two on there is sufficient. Same for the flat at the end.

No I was saying there is more to building the R/M. I'd like to put a set of those Revell wheels and tires on the AMT sedan sometime ! Or it would be nice if Revell offered a sedan someday, also a 41 sedan. And a Chevy also.But hey dreams are free at least.

I don't know if I'd say miles ahead but it has it's advantages. Right off the bat the wheels and tires and trim rings on the wheels are the correct size. On the other hand the AMT running boards are the more correct version. The Revell/Monogram is more to build if one wants simplicity. Then one needs to consider if they want to build a standard couple or deluxe, AMT is deluxe, Monogram the standard.

The 39 hood should fit marginally better than the the 40 hood. It took 10 minutes of heat and gentle bending to get that to fit reasonably well on the one I built a couple of years ago and seems tome I trimmed the hinge/pins or slots for them to release the push outward to the sides.. The 40 hood would take more work. I was building the 39 version anyway,which isn't really true since it would tale more modifying to build a true 39. It's easier to build the 39 into a 40 standard rather than deluxe. Not all that bad considering these are 1959 moldsthough, we just sort of took that sort of things for granted back then. It sounds like you need a modern snap kit to play with if you want something quick and simple..