Dave G.

Yep, I wasn't kidding when I mentioned that earlier in the thread. The warnings are real, they aren't kidding. We got all the latest literature and work shop materials when I shot commercially in 1/1. We shot with proper gear which is a toss away paper coverall basically and a positive feed fresh air hood for you head. Nitrile gloves, the suit has elastic tension cuffs. The hood covers your head to the shoulders, the air feed is in the rear and 1-2 psi or there abouts blows out an opening in front of the eyes. Basically positive pressure and cool fresh air circulates inside Back in my day they were a bit different than this but same idea:

What you say is my exact reasoning for not using the stuff. It's also why I got out of refinishing 1/1. That said, I still do use a respirator for general solvent paints too, mostly due to sinus trouble I have. I use N95 masks for acrylic but the organic vapor respirator for solvent based paints. It's no big deal to me I used them for 35 years in 1/1,use the N95 in wood working, either way I'm putting a mask on. . But when those catalyzed paints came along and pressure masks etc, I just back off 1/1 to bumper repairs, door panel repairs and such on commercial trucks then got out all together. Honestly, I like building model classic era cars and to my eye plain old alkyd synthetic enamels still gives a very traditional finish on them if sprayed right. A custom might get clear or clear colors over silver or gold base for instance. But lacquer works fine for that or even Tamiya acrylic. They polish up great for me. I'm not bringing 2K into my house and hobby.

It's really not over kill because the dangers in 2k can enter through your eyes as well. Edit: that goes for mixing the paint and during the curing process, not just the spray process.

I just use thinned and brushed on craft paint. And generally follow up with an oil wash anyway so it doesn't much matter. I have a little bit of MM Aluminum Plate Buffing left, maybe half a bottle that I'm saving for something more important than a muffler. Edit: I wanted to add that first, with craft paint the parts need primed and I use black just fwiw ( don't ask on the black it's just how I do it but you do need primer to make a good bond). And secondly I have sprayed the craft paint with the Paasche H but I just choose to brush. I know the thread is about spray cans so discard info if not interested but someone might be.

Just on another note any lacquer can haze when shot in high humidity. Around here today would be a good day to paint as humidity dropped overnight but yesterday the dew point was 74deg. Forget that for lacquer.

I simply wipe down my bodies with a paper towel wet with odorless mineral spirits. Sometimes I scuff the model with a 2500, 3000 or 3500 grit 2x2 soft touch mesh pad depending on the body. I used alcohol for the wipe down for a while but since switching to Stynylrez primer for whatever reason it goes better with the mineral spirits, so I switched back to that.. I give the model a quick wipe down with tissues but then blow it off immediately before painting anyway.No tack cloth just air. Resin bodies need the dish soap imo. Nothing wrong with dish soap anyway, I just been doing it this way basically forever with styrene.

This should be encouraging news for anyone who has hesitated buying one of these assuming their windshield frame would be in pieces. I won't be starting the kit just yet, If I do I'll never finish my 1/16 31 roadster project that has it's own issue I'm working on. But I do think I will do a wash on that 57 grill so I can see the real effect of it with that background chrome blackened out. That will be my little first step made into this kit. Course once I get there I will see the valve covers hubcaps need treating etc. I'm sure.

Maybe AMT smartened up ! I've seen the videos with them broken but I don't recall seeing any bracing either. I was pleasantly surprised to open my 57's box and see both the bracing and that frame in tact.

Windshield packaged bracing.

I'm wondering if that's a new bit of mold to add in those braces. The frame is supported pretty well. Course now I get to cut those away without breaking the frame lol ! I know the 55 had no such bracing, it was just hanging out there in the open to get busted. I assume this 57 is new production not old stock. Maybe there is hope for others.

Thanks, I didn't even try to resist lol !

The 57 windshield is braced, and it was perfect. I wasn't even going to open the kit right away but I had to see that. And the braces are reasonably substantial,two up from the lower frame area and a center one spanning back to the rear of the cockpit. Also the WS frame and body are not warped. The body in the box sits lower than the Chrome parts tree next to it as well. With the 55 Bird the body is nearly up top of the heap of plastic. It's typical AMT with molded in seat and molded in parts of the chassis to bottom but at least has separate suspension. The pleating on the seat looks decent. Mostly I want top view and 312 engine to dominate anyway. The X portion of the frame and exhaust too are glue ins, the chassis actually is better than I anticipated though. I might build it top on even, not sure yet. The hubcap detail is very good, grill quite good. I'm gonna enjoy this, it's very difficult not to start on it now that I've seen it but I just have too much at the bench to clear up. They should retool the 55 and package it better then re introduce that, I'd buy one. They should do 1/16 50's era full size Ford too. All we see in 50's these days for 1/16 is Chevy and few of those. The 55 Chevy convertible is on my list too.

So I happened into Hobby Lobby today after meeting my daughter and husband for breakfast. I've been playing with decanted enamels again and came up with this great light turquoise and thinking how appropriate for a 50's car. So there it was at HL an AMT 1/16 57 T Bird. Then I glanced up and saw the sign 40% off all model kits through June 5th no coupon required. So I got the1/16 57 for $25. I've got models on the bench and more waiting but didn't care at that price. I almost bought an airplane too but held back. When I got home I checked out paint charts for the T Bird and all I need to do is lighten my decanted paint a little with some white and it will be dead on. It wouldn't even be bad as is.

I've also shot the lacquer Metalizer clear over( from an airbrush ) bare plastic with oil stains on it. I would think if something would hiccup it would be that. That's some strong smelling stuff. I did dust it on not knowing how it might go. Came out beautiful. It was wood grain floor boards on a 1911 classic car and I didn't want to lose that grain pattern.

The short answer, yes. The longer version test lol ! But I've shot the Model Master clears over several acrylic paints. And harsher clear lacquers too like Minwax,Rustoleum and Deft, Watco etc over various acrylics, from craft paints to artist acrylic and Vallejo..

The Tamiya acrylics brush nice by adding in Liquitex retarder to a good brushing consistency ( there are other methods too but that's working great for me) . I happen to have the retarder on hand anyway, in fact it goes in my acrylic thinner I make up for use in craft paints which pretty much ends tip dry.. The little Testors enamels brush nice with a little odorless mineral spirits added.

How you get on doing Vallejo depends on which series you're taking about and if brushing or airbrushing. I shot enamels and solvent based paints for decades before venturing into acrylics, you learn some quick lessons early on with acrylic, so I got into 2-3 year testing routine. and I can do a good job with them now. But if honest it's easier to decant some enamel from a spray can and just shoot that. I'm gonna shoot some 2-X tomorrow, decanted 3/4 oz or so today, still 11 oz left in the $4.99 can.

Never give up just redirect your path lol ! You won't go wrong whatever you decide in terms of polishing. You will know better tomorrow if it suits you or not. I don't know if you were around back in the 60's but these cars factory paint wasn't exactly anything to write home about right off the showroom floor.. And they weren't clear coated. So I guess it depends what your own expectations are. This was your paint mule as I recall ?

It might tone down slight in the next 24 hours but nothing you can't just polish back up. And then it will stay. I think you might be starting to see the benefit of a couple of extra really wet coat just about when you thought you were done lol. That finish looks promising ! Also fwiw the Tamiya acrylic clear colors can really pop too. I've used them in two way: colored clear coat over a solid color base coat. And as a candy type finish over rose gold metallic. I've also mixed the clear colors, like the red with blue for instance to come up with a kind of candy burgundy. They're cool to mess around with. I thin those with either LT or with DNA 50/50 or even slightly more thinner depending on the color.

Well we see it through a glass darkly so to speak, you see it directly and in person. What's wrong with it ?

The primer coat is beautiful and yes I agree on the panel lines !

I use a Paasche H, #3 tip and generally a metal side cup to spray my Stynylrez. 23-25 psi. That #3 is a .7 fwiw. I've shot it both thinned and unthinned depending on my goal. But I've shot the stuff with a .5 many times in my Badger 200, even now and then for some fine work through a .25. Just sayin. The only time I've ever had anything like glop, it was off the rim of the Stynylrez bottle and worst part is I thought I saw it go into the mixing bottle from the pipette but dumb me continued on anyway, old dried paint. And don't let it freeze, it can't handle getting frozen. One last thing, don't return thinned paint back to the bottle. I've had that backfire later on as the bottle gets older and lower in content.. I've never shot the stuff through a DA brush though. I usually use the H, it's my go to for that primer. And hey if your thinner turns the primer to glop in the mixing cup don't spray it ! Try Badgers suggestion. But if it looks like glop coming out of your bottle then maybe it did go bad.

Did you really mix the Stynlyrez well ? I use Kleen Strip. However I've gotten reports of where lacquer thinner in some parts of the country in order to meet standards there is mostly acetone. I don't believe mine is, it doesn't smell like acetone. I just shot white Stynylrez Sunday thinned nearly 50/50 with Kleen Strip, came out fine. Just so you know, Badgers own recommendation is to thin it slightly with water. They don't suggest thinning at all but if you are compelled to then use water they say. I've done that too,it works but was more grainy when dry than with LT.. As to an alcohol based product like washer fluid I've shot stynylrez with IPA and with DNA and IPA worked better. All washer fluid is is methanol and water mixed together with a little dye in it. Basically a Methanol type alcohol and water.

I initially flush Stynylrez out of the airbrush with warm water. Then switch to 91 IPA and flush and back flush several times till I see no more residue, then flush with cool water. It's tough stuff though. Back flushing is key at least for me. I don't tear the brush down very often ( I prime with the Paasche H and #3 tip) but when I do I generally don't find much of anything in that rather large needle or tip,where I will if I'm sloppy about my back flushing. If you're using internal mix double action that may be different. I've never used one for this primer that I can recall.

Stynylrez takes enamels to it very well. Not sure where TAM gets rubbery from but then I cut my Stynylrez with a little lacquer thinner and often heat set it in my dehydrator. To me it can be dry scuffed in less than two hours if it needs any scuffing at all. And I've never gotten rubbery even when shot straight from the bottle. What I will say though is as it sits on a shelf for extended periods it will separate ( many paint do). And it's a separation that no amount of shaking will put 100% back together again, even if it looks good in the bottle. I use a Badger power mixer and in less than two minutes all is well. I've shot lacquer over it as well. If you put down the first coat too wet with hot lacquer you can ( not always) get a little sand scratch swelling, that needs scuffed out then continue as usual. I'm not a hot lacquer fan anyway and since the topic is enamel you have no worries of that happening even if you thin enamel with lacquer thinner, as I often have. Also hobby lacquers and Tamiya acrylic thinned with lacquer thinner go down over Stynlrez beautifully. Hope any of this helps and my grammar passes inspection lol.