Rich Chernosky

You inspired me to finish it. Thanks for that and the compliment.

I wanted to do this one as a paint excercise when I aquired the new Tamiya LP line. So it is mopstly box stock. Color I chose was LP44 Metallic Orange. I added a coat of LP53 Clear Orange and finished with the clear LP9. Kit is quite rare as Nakamura did not do too many cars. This car was a concept car built in 1969 by Pininfarina on an Abarth 2000 Sport Spider SE chassis. Car is powered by a 4 cyl engine but due to the extreme light weight of the car it was capable of 175mph. There was only one model built and it is currently in Japan on display in a museum. More info on this site: https://www.motor1.com/news/128077/fiat-abarth-2000-scorpione-concept/ An unusual subject for sure and i hope you enjoy it. See specifics below. I only added a few extra details like those turn signals in front. Rear veiw shows the single exhaust from the rear mount 4cly engine. I understand it was quite loud. Rear glass had a nasty flaw in it and had to be replaced with sheet styrene. Scorpion and script were from the kit decals but the stripes are vinyl tape. Surprisingly 50yr old decal came off the sheet. Rear deck hinges backwards and the entire windshield comes up on the real car. Car was supposed to be motorized so most of the interior is taken up by battery housing. Entire chassis is removable so at a later date I could add a real interior...but for now...I wanted it done.

Another one I wanted to get done from the stash. Platz NuNu BMW M6 GT3. This car won the 2016 SPA 24 hours. Kit is mostly box stock with a few minor additions. Color is Tamiya TS26 white. Kit is a curbside. More detail below the photos. Thanks for looking. Kit on its wheels. There were two sheets of decals and almost two days of work. Decal quality was excellent, they fit and laid down well with a little solvent and heat. Rear veiw show some of the excellent detail Platz NuNu put into this kit. All the glass fit perfectly. Stance of the car is race perfect. Special attention went into the light bars and position marker lights. Front end decals were extensive and required most of the work.

Nice job Bruce, Those decals look great but I bet they were a challenge.

Don't know how this got submitted. Must have hit the button. Moderator please delete if necessary.

Brand new Tamiya kit of the second generation Subaru BRZ. This car was first introduced in 2012 as Subaru's entry into the sports car market. Car featured their 2.8 boxer engine mounted in the front and rear drive only. this was done to save weight. I did this kit box stock as a quick project. Color is Tamiya LP47 blue pearl airbrushed with Tamiya LP49 clear and some pearl added. Kit was very well engineered except for the hood hinges which had to be altered to work properly. Other than that it went together very well with no other problems. Photographs have more detail in the captions. Thanks for looking. Interior is a mixture of Tamiya LP flats and gloss. I chose a light blue gray and darkened it down slightly. The darker blue was a gloss that had flat clear put on later. Interior was very well detailed and it would have been a shame not to take a picture with the body off. Engine was also nicely detailed and probably begged for extra detailing but as i said I was looking for a quick build. This is the first kit I have ever done to feature a working prop rod. Nice touch. Finished kit on its wheels and using my fall background. Rear view shows all the attention to detail Tamiya put into this kit. Masks were included to reproduce the clear read and black gloss paint on the taillights. Stick on chrome emblems are also nice. Wheels were sprayed gloss black then a coat of Alclad Pale Burnt Metal. Front headlights were a multi piece affair and required special attention but turned out cool. I liked the colored insert on the mirrors which was a separate piece.

Brand new Tamiya kit of the second generation Subaru BRZ. This car was first introduced in 2012 as Subaru's entry into the sports car market. Car featured their 2.8 boxer engine mounted in front and rear wheel drive only to save weight. I did this kit all box stock as a q

Now that's what I call a workshop. Will look forward to see what comes out of it. Welcome to the forum.

Wow...I recently aquired this kit in another livery. I already had this one but many of the decals were flaking off. It was done a long time ago. When I opened the new kit it had both liveries so now I have a new decal sheet and am re-doing my original build plus the new one. Yours is definetly inspiration. I didn't know you could add all that detail. Thanks for posting your build. It will be great reference.

What a great post and terrific compliment Tom. Thank you so much for doing this. Good luck with your build and if there is anything I can do to help don't hesitate to ask.

Dan...if you want to see how this looks in silver I posted this one here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/169386-audi-r8-lms-gt3/

Thank you Helmut....I did not realize the error of my ways until I took the photo of the two of them together. The kit photos and instructions were not so explicit and even though I used other reference I did not pick up on it. It caused me a lot of work. But as you said, I was pretty sure no one would notice.

Dug into it this morning, thanks for the push.

Cool collection....

Nice job on a tough decal challenge. Did you use the Photo etch set that was available for this kit. Like your collection too. I may have to tackle that white BMW you have.

Having done this kit myself I can say you really knocked this one out of the park. Very well done Giovanni.

Mark....followed your WIP on this build and picked up a few good tips. This project certainly turned into a masterpiece. Thanks for going through the effort with your WIP.

I use micro carbide drill bits. All my bits have 1/8" shanks and chuck right in my moto-tool. I use a 4.8v re-chargeable moto-tool. You CAN NOT hand drill with these. They are super sharp but snap in a heartbeat. I use the slowest speed and make sure the bit goes in nice and straight. Any angle or twisting and they will snap. They will do most brass and copper but you have to be careful when they are about to break through. They will catch very quickly and snap if you are not careful. It takes some practice with these bits but once you know what they can and can't do and the materials you can and can't use them on you won't regret it. They never wear out and you can do some incredibly precise drilling. My go to for these bits is Drillbitcity.com.

Bruce...the paint job is not as hard as you think, You will have two advantages over me. One you are working in a larger scale, and two you will be doing the graphics correctly. Mine are actually incorrect. The yellow portion over the fender vents on mine is actually wrong according to the photos. My instruction photos were not so good but if I had looked carefully I would have noticed the the yellow portion covers the outside vent only. This will put the red pinstripe down the center and on the outside so there will be no need to cut it to fit into the vents. I positioned mine over the center. Doh !! This caused me problems later on as the yellow went too far over the front and there was not enough room for the Sunoco sponser decal. It took some fancy painting to fix this but I managed. I sprayed the yellow first (not masking) in the areas I thought it should be. The blue will cover the yellow over-spray quite easily. The photos below will show you how I made the masks and pinstripe. I've added captions to help. The tool to cut the thin vinyl tape was made from a new single edge razor blade. The moto-tool cutoff wheel cuts through it like butter. Hold it in a pair of vise grips when you cut it. The metal backing comes off easily when you grind the top of it. Round the blade slightly as this will allow you to get in tight places. All the striping is cut with a metal straight edge on a piece of glass. Do this by eye and hold the metal down as tight as you can. It may take a few cuts to get you the width you want. The vinyl tape is made by 3M and available at most hardware stores. I keep lots of colors of this and use it extensively when I do graphics. It can be sprayed with lacquers but you have to use it before the paint cures as it will crack if you don't. The paint was matched to the decals by putting a drop on clear plastic that covers the decal. The metal paint stirrers I use will put exactly one drop of paint down. You can get a good idea of the percentage when mixing by counting the drops used. Its not exact but comes close enough. The paint has to match the decal colors so your mixtures and paint used may not match mine since your decals are printed by a different company. Be aware that sometimes the decal will change color went applied over a dark surface. You may need to adjust for that. The pattern for the mask was made with Tamiya tape over a copy of the decal sheet. (shown) I cover that copy with clear packing tape as this allows the pattern to be removed easily and not lose its stick. I hope all this helps you. That MFH kit looks like it will make a killer model. Regards Rich

Definetly not an easy livery to do. You pulled it off very well.