Plowboy

Baking soda can't absorb anything once it's been sealed with primer and paint. All of my models are in display cases in my garage where they're exposed to temperature changes from as low as 40 to as high as 96 along with humidity. If anything were going to happen, it would have by now.

Thanx! It's been a while since I built this the first time. I think I got it from Chuck Most maybe? I believe they were part of an engine parts pack. I actually took two to make this one because it was too short.

No, the engine is actually from the Phantom Vickie kit. It's a quad cam Ford engine from a Cobra Mustang. The injectors, stacks and valley cover are from the AMT '53 Ford pickup. I don't know what the valve covers are from.

The only terrible styrene I've experienced is the old JoHan kits. Especially if they are molded in any color. Their styrene is like working with kit glass. Brittle as all get out and almost impossible to glue with regular glues. Crazy glue is about the only glue that will hold it together. I have a few in the stash. But, I won't be building any of them. I'd rather get a colonoscopy with a strand of barbed wire than work with their styrene!

This is the most recent that I have photos of. The rest are in Photobucket. I've only done 3 or four with future. What I like about the future is I get more consistent results. With the glue method, I would get thick and thin spots. What I like about the baking soda is virtually no buildup which is nice when doing the bottom of door panels.

I always figured it was A. To keep them from rusting B. To make it visibly easier to spot cracks around the flange or collector. That may be too simple of an answer though. You rarely, if ever, see a modern drag car with painted headers. If there was a true advantage to be had by painting them, every one you see would have painted headers.

I use future for adhesive and baking soda for the carpet. To me, the baking soda has the best in scale appearance and I can paint it whatever color I want. If I happen to mess up (hasn't happened yet), I can remove it with glass cleaner and start over.

I now have a rolling chassis! Just gotta hook the headers up to the exhaust. I'm a little disappointed with the headers. I had cut the flange away and bent the pipes so they would line up with the exhaust ports. I don't know if spraying primer and paint on them caused them to go back to the original shape or they just did it on their own. But, they did and now they don't line up exactly. Good thing this is for fun build! I am happy with the rear wheels. The depth is just right. The color is also exactly what I was looking for. One thing I messed up on is the color of the chassis. It only has one coat of clear. The body has four. So, it's a lighter shade than the body. For whatever reason, I wasn't thinking about the frame showing. Hopefully, it won't be too noticeable against the body and fenders.

One tip when it gets time to paint, is paint the underside of the hood and under hood (if it's going to be body color) first. Then tape the hood to the body just a touch above the fenders so that it isn't touching them. When you paint, your hood will be the same color as the body. It's very easy to get the hood just a shade off. Especially if it's a metallic paint. Solids aren't much different. Just one extra shot of paint will change the shade on a panel.

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Thanx for the info guys! Does or doesn't the Foose '56 Ford have a Cleveland engine? Is it the same as a NASCAR engine? I know it's a Roush built engine.

When you find some, get me one too! All I have left of mine is the hood scoop and the wheels. I've thought about taking the Bad Actor and Street Fighter and combining the bodies. The Quicksilver is hard to come by and expensive when you do.

Thanx guys! I cleaned the wheels with degreaser just to be sure. I have the rear wheels deepened and it's made a huge difference in the way they look! I've decided to paint them with Stainless Steel this go around. It's between the Light Gun Metal and the Mica Silver. I should get them in primer today and paint tomorrow. Then, it'll just be putting it together. Everything else is pretty much done. It's been a pretty fun little project except for the wheel issue.

I got the engine together and detailed a little. At first glance, it looks like a Hemi. Probably won't fool many people. But, it has the look I was after. I think it'll look pretty cool once it's installed in the frame and has the body surrounding it. I'm going to have to relocate the oil filter as it will interfere with the header. Minor problem. I also have the chassis done. Just gotta get the wheels issue sorted out. I had to soak the wheels in brake fluid. First time using it. What do I use to clean the brake fluid off?

That's a cool little hot rod Alan! I like the body color and the 409! I did something similar with the leftovers. But, I used an AMT '29 Roadster body.

Thanx Steve! Those are nice. But, not $25 nice. The 3-D stuff still has a ways to go regarding finish before I buy. I think the biggest issue for me with these wheels is the color and the lack of depth on the rears as Alan mentioned. Once they're stripped again, I think I'll see what I can do with the rear wheels. If I mess them up, no big loss. I have a couple of other sets of wheels in mind at the ready. But, I really want to make these work if I can.

Anyone know of a kit (besides NASCAR) that has a good 1/25 scale 351C? I want one that is close to stock or stock. I'm not concerned about the transmission behind it. It would be nice if it came with an automatic. But, not necessary. I've went through about every Ford kit I have and have came up empty. TIA.

The body is now in paint. I only have a few pieces left to paint. Before I do a final polishing, I gotta get the wheels and tires nailed down. I painted the wheels with Light Gun Metal. I didn't like them. So, they're in the stripper again. I'm gonna paint them with Mica Silver. If that doesn't work, I'll paint them dull red. If that doesn't work, I'll try a different set of wheels and tires or just can it.

Just received a nice little '63 Fairlane promo. 100% complete. I was the only bidder on it. Got it for $50 plus shipping! It's almost too nice for what I have planned for it. But, I've been after one for a good while. Now I can build one of my favorite cars that my older brother owned. I'll pitch the chassis, stock wheels/tires and the interior tub and replace them with the Revell '64 Fairlane parts.

Something that may work would be to brush a coat of future over your enamel primer before shooting the lacquer paint over it. The future should seal your primer and allow you to spray lacquer over it. Still, I would do a test before committing to the body.

You can get pretty close with the injection setup from the AMT '53 F-100. I'm using it on a build at the moment. Mine is on a Ford 4 cam mod engine from the Phantom Vickie. You just have to flip them around to get them to angle towards the center. Here's a photo. This is what they look like on the engine. The port spacing may be different on your engine. But, that could be fixed pretty easily.

That's a sharp looking little Sonoma! You rarely see these kits built. It's a treat to see one built up nice! Makes me want to grab one of my old Rangers and build it. Nice work!

That's a wicked looking old Chevy truck! Lots of details! Do you have any photos with the doors and hood closed?

Dupli Color metallics won't have a bass boat effect. They're not perfectly scaled for a model. But, they're as close (if not closer) than a lot of scale paints. Way better than Testors One Coats. If Tamiya doesn't have the color you want in metallic, but has it in non metallic, you can simply spray a coat of their clear pearl over it. Still, don't dismiss the Dupli Color metallics. This Chevelle was painted with Dupli Color Bright Aqua. It certainly doesn't have the bass boat look.

I did it recently without any problem. The only time I choose Dupli Color over Tamiya is if Tamiya doesn't have the exact color I need. You can use Dupli Color primer without issue over styrene.