Plowboy

Exactly! Personally, I see no way that constructive criticism will help the person or the hobby. 99.9% of people who post their models have done their best. I'm willing to bet that several people have turned away from the hobby due to constructive criticism. How is that better for the hobby or the builder?

Have you tried looking on ebay? There was a caster, Blue Oval Resin Works, that cast that grille along with other Ford parts. But, a search only turned up threads asking where he was now. And those were from years ago.

The only Buick kit I have on hand is a '66 Skylark. I can make a valley cover for this engine quicker than I can find one. Especially looking through my stash of parts. Thanx for the suggestions!

That's a cool looking little Datsun shop truck! Where did you get the wheels? This has given me ideas for that long bed Courier I have in the stash.

Hopefully, Round2 will issue the fleetside and Dave Burket will do the Racers Wedge. I have no interest in the Racers Wedge. But, I could use a fleetside. I thought Round2 had stopped leasing molds to Dave Burket?

It's about time they reissued the '72. The prices on them are getting rediculous! Spotlight has the Hot Trucks issue priced at $57! Seen them go for that and higher on the bay.

That's a sharp looking GTO! Where did you get the S200 wheels?

Don't know about the hood fitting the funny car. But, the '66 hardtop has a molded in chassis. The best donor would be the chassis from the Monogram '66 fastback. While it's 1/24 scale, it should take very little to make it work. Another may be the one from the AMT '67. But, it's quite a bit more narrow than the hardtop body.

Thanx! The process was simple. I sanded the face of the rim smooth and glued a donor rim onto it. Not the "proper" way to do it. But, it worked well enough for this type of build.

They won't. I deleted all but one of them once I got it finished. Thanx for posting the link!

I tried to copy and paste a link to the build thread. But, for some reason, I can't copy and paste a link with my tablet. So, go to trakinscale.proboards.com, find the bench section, go to the second page and you'll find it. It will explain the details. This is the only progress photo I have left.

I mastered a louvered hood, deep steel wheels and a rearend for the '32s over five years ago. Started a thread to guage interest and got less than ten comments on them. So, I didn't pursue it. Things may be different now though. This project is making me want to dig out my old '32 five window project. I have the hood in primer and the rest ready for primer. Mine has the Y block from the AMT '57 and three two barrels.

If I'm not mistaken, the Monogram '34 has a separate roof section. It'll be quite difficult to get it glued on cleanly enough to be able to just polish the body. Personally, I always paint.

Thanx Bill! Sounds like I'll be better off to scratch build a new valley cover to use with the carburetors.

I only use Tamiya TS-13.

It's looking good Dennis! My only suggestion would be to grab another pair of front Radirs and deepen them for the rear. It would give you a deep wheel with the same diameter.

I'm using the Nailhead engine from the Revell '29 roadster in a '39 Ford project and have a slight issue. From the beginning, I've planned on using the six carb setup. But, I just noticed that the valley cover has two holes where the fuel block for the fuel injection mounts. These will show with the six carb setup. First question: Would the fuel injection setup be suitable for the street? My understanding (very little) of that setup is that it requires a high pressure or cam driven fuel pump. I'm thinking a normal mechanical fuel pump wouldn't work. Second question: Could I simply cut away the molded in fuel lines from the fuel block and replace them with new fuel lines to the carbs? Or would that be a bad place for a fuel block. If it works for the fuel injection, it should work for the carbs, correct? Or would the street engine produce more heat and be susceptible to vapor lock? I want to use the kit valley cover and carbs. But, I don't want the exposed holes showing. Besides scratch building another valley, I don't know of an alternative. TIA!

That's a cool high rider! That's about the only style that looks "right" on those old boats. I have a '71 that's going to get the same treatment.

Thanx Alan! I couldn't build one straight out of the box. I can't stand the way the Duvall windshield looks on that body. I would have to change the cowl and windshield at the very least. Interesting idea though.

Thanx Dennis! That means a lot coming from someone with your knowledge and experience. I still don't have your knack for getting all the right pieces together. But, I'm improving little by little I think. This model was the Polar opposite of my last hot rod build.

Looks like a Fox Mustang floor pan. Maybe an MPC? Definitely not from the Phantom Vickie.

^^^ Agree. Everyone thought the sky was falling with the Hobbico bankruptcy. I'm hoping with Pegasus now owning Moebius, that the accuracy will improve.

Another just for fun build. The goal was to make the outside look traditional, but have everything underneath modern. Like a best of both worlds. It's the old AMT Phantom Vickie kit with a few changes made to it. The chassis is straight out of the box. The engine is from the kit also. But, I "backdated" it with a set of fake Hemi valve covers and a modernized Hilborn style fuel injection setup from an AMT '53 Ford pickup. Headers are from the Revell '50 F-1. The wheels and tires are from a Revell '32 sedan with the rears deepened. They're painted with Stainless Steel. The only changes to the interior are the seats from an AMT '34 sedan and the steering wheel from a '34 pickup. Paint is Tamiya Dull Red. The body got the cowl and windshield frame from a Revell '32 roadster. It's painted Tamiya Mica Silver. The top was modified to fit the new frame and also painted Dull Red. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out considering the time and effort I put into it. Thanx for checking it out!

It's done! Pretty happy with it considering the time and effort I put into it. Here's a couple of indoor shots. I'll take some better outdoor photos when I get a chance to post under glass. Thanx to all who looked and commented!

Well, I don't use baking soda and super glue. So, I don't think I'll have that problem. Besides, there's no way of knowing exactly what caused that issue. Could've been the primer, paint, who knows? Builders have been using that concoction for decades. If it happened frequently, it would be common knowledge. That's the first time I've seen that happen.