LL3 Model Worx

Good investment... they are on a whole different level of sharpness compared to any standard #11 And you can just buy the blades... a regular handle will work fine, just snap the back of the scalpel blade off with some pliers. I've been doing it for years.

That looks pretty nice! And I didn't even consider if it were metalic or solid... I just assumed metalic because as you know solids tend to stripe less in general.

The overall process differs some in the prep stage, but the technique of application and finishing is ultimately the same. No reason the question shouldn't be allowed or perhaps answered... Mileage would vary regardless... as who knows if any of us even know how to paint a model, let alone a 1:1 truck. I've always assumed information obtained here is consumed and applied at my own risk.

Basically the same principles and in alot of cases the same products used... its a totally relevant question as I'd bet alot of guys here have done (like myself) plenty of 1:1 work.

Do a light wet sanding with 1000 then shoot again, 70% overlap in the spray pattern outta do it. You basically have inconsistencies in the way the gun moved etc... So a line of paint that went on dry vs a line that went on wet and issues with the overlap of the pattern. Be sure to hold the gun perpendicular to the panel and overlap about 70%... look for consistency of flow on the panel. But don't feel bad, it's an easy mistake to make... I've done it several times.

Man those look killer! But what is that white though... that car could pass as real with a decent diorama and some photography knowhow.. But seriously, spill it... what is that white?

Man, that's sharp!

Nice looking model! As mentioned above, you clearly have natural skills if this is only your 5th or 6th model. I ruined at least my first 10 or 20... I really like the contrast... only thing I would have done different is black out that those bumpers ? Best part is... every kit comes with a different set of challenges that WILL cause you to stumble, learn and improve.

Man that is a clean model... Oddly the one detail that really jumped at me wash the wash you did on the core support... weird I know, but it looks great!

Very cool. Love the Bronco!

Very sharp! It absolutely deserves the finer real-estate on your shelf!

So naturally you are building a pro street, 4 door, wagon right?

A plethora of different flavors at any given moment... but currently that Charvel Model 2.

When I talk about vallejo I mean mainly the model color range. They do have some alcohol based stuff like the "Metal color" and "Liquid gold" etc...

I actually ordered a set of fujimi OZ wheels that come with brake rotors and spindles. Was trying to keep it box stock, but that flew out the window fast. Now I'm working on wiring the engine...

Interesting... Tamiya acrylics? Tamiya acrylics are not true water based acrylic, they are alcohol based and thin with water also and just as well with lacquer thinner. Try thinning some vallejo or craft paint with it and it will curdle like cottage cheese. Same as putting alcohol in with vallejo it will curdle. Been there done that. If you are doing that with success please do tell me, as I'm very interested.

It's not near as complicated or surrounded in wich craft as some would have it seem. I'll be honest... I don't have a paint booth. Sometimes if I have to spray alot of stinky enamels or lacquer I'll do it in my garage. But I spray acrylics at my desk literally all the time for years... I just spray over a small trashcan. With the tip sizes and pressures I use overspray isn't really an issue... Airbrushing acrylic paint is FAR more challenging than enamel or lacquer because it can be tricky to thin and spray because of the way/ speed it dries. Just get a good respirator and practice... you'll find it's super easy. I use "cheap" klean strip lacquer thinner to thin and clean both enamels and lacquer... can be had by the gallon at home depot or equivalent. Just don't use it to thin acrylics ?

I've airbrushed my wife's nails for years... Most of your nail polish is lacquer based but uses acetone as the solvent... so it dries MUCH faster than usual. It also has alot more clear and less pigment in it so it shines well and looks deep on its own... just gotta build up slow for coverage. Something else to keep in mind is, Acetone is a main ingredient of styrene cement... like tamiya extra thin. I use a jar of Acetone to make sprue goo like this. So, I would recommend primer that has had plenty of cure time, and then use a couple mist coats of the nail polish before you start laying it on wet. Most of the metalics I've encountered will spray out of a .3 needle. Some of the flake is too large, but some colors are dead on in scale I'd say. Just be diligent and careful because there are indeed some amazing color options. Stay away from the "Gel" stuff also.

Man, that was one of the funnest model related things I've seen in...probably ever! Awsome video and model!

Fantastic work! I recently acquired the testors boxing of this kit on ebay... when I actually build it, I hope it turns out half as nice as yours! Great job!

I past it over a candle very quickly... took several passes and incremental adjustment to get it straight. Thanks for looking I got the body out of the dehydrator last night. Will have more photos hopefully by this evening.

Thanks Kevin. You are most welcome. I just don't trust the post office these days, so I keep a close eye on them. The put a $1600 guitar under my front porch!

I'd recommend buying the "refill" bottle and just airbrush the stuff... I personally can't keep the tips from clogging on the pins, and continually wasting costly ink trying to re prime the tip is irritating. But the ink itself is amazing and so are the pens, when they actually work.

Same goes for you Lee, exactly as described and more than expected!

You are welcome! I'm glad to see he is mostly ok as well. Jay Leno is way too good a guy. However that being said, if someone were going to "go out" working on a turn of the century steam car... it would be Jay Leno!