Pierre Rivard

Thanks Ray, my first GT40. Look forward to your 1/8 Cobra w.i.p. Thank you sir! I agree Mario. Compared to the sexy 330 P3 the GT40 looks more like the in your face aggressor that it was and black suits it well. Thanks Mathias. My first black car and I was sweating bullets. Not a top notch paint job but I'm happy with it. Thanks Rex. The body is very good and the PE back piece gives it a premium look. I too wish Fujimi had done the Mark IV. Only option appears to be the old 1/25 MPC kit. Thanks Bob. California in the sixties...sports & racing car paradise! Thanks Gary. Look forward to see more of your J1 build. Thank you sir! Thanks Rich. Looks like I'm stuck in 66 with successive builds from that year. Definitely need to do a 330 P3 and Porsche 906 to complete the set. Thanks Bruce. No choice to brush living in a condo and building in winter time. Took time to develop the method. Gotta say black tested my limits. Hope you'll post progress on that Meng. When I do another Mark II I'd want to thy that kit. Thank you James. Have you tried the brush painting technique we discussed? Thank you Helmut. I always enjoy your builds as we tend to like the same cars. Still thinking about the beautiful GTO you posted recently. I forgot to mention the wheels & tires are the only deviation from a strictly OOB. The Good Year decals are an add from Indycal and the spinners are Ferrari pieces ( I had stolen the GT40 pieces for another project)

No doubt this will be your centerpiece Cobra Ray. I hope you continue building in the future and continue your contribution to this great forum. I will follow with great interest.

The big 63-64 Fords, my favorite dark side NASCAR racers. Look forward to this one.

I was using Micro Krystal Clear and also found it too thick and drying too fast while working it. Matt Bacon suggested 560 Canopy Glue. I love it. Super easy to apply, excellent adhesion and dries clear.

After building the Chaparral 2D which qualified 2nd at Daytona in 66 and won at the Ring the same year, I got thinking how special a year 1966 was for sports car racing. The lovely Chaparral had big potential but could not keep up with the mighty Ford empire. First slide is a nod to that: Chappy with the mighty nemesis. 1966 was special in many other ways. It was the start of the end for dominant Ferrari in sports car racing, despite showing up with the 330 P3, a 420 HP, 1600 pound missile. It did win at Spa but the story was all about Daytona and Le Mans where Ford established it's dominance with the heavy but extra potent 7 liter GT40 MkII. The other big story was the ascension of Porsche with it's amazing 906 (or Carrera 6). Winner at Le Mans in the P2.0 category and taking P4 to P7 in overall classifications. Signs of things to come. So this build is OOB Fujimi. Not a bad kit but can't say I liked it that much. It has a few issues but it is not a difficult build Kit decals, Vallejo primer, Vallejo Model Color, Tamiya X22 clear and Holloway House Quick Shine seal coat over decals. Quick Shine was an experiment as a replacement for Future/Pledge Floor Care which is no longer produced. Quick Shine works well on the body but not on the glass parts due to low adhesion. All finishes brush painted. Polishing steps after primer and Tamiya X22 layers

Quick update. I will be posting shortly my first build (in other Racing...etc) with Quick Shine replacing Future. Works good on the body but adhesion on glass parts is not good so I'll keep what Future I have left just for the glass parts going forward.

It's a gorgeous build Mario. I did the 71 winner but the 70 winner in red looks much better. The ultimate Porsche that would have dominated for years if rules changes had not stopped it's carreer short. Awesome build as your's always are.

Hey Bruce? I need my fix!

Aahhh, decal day, my favorite. Always takes more time than expected but so rewarding. Looking good Andy!

An absolute beauty Tim. Extra points for sticking to accuracy with the 115 inch chassis into the unmodified rear w/h opening location. Looks goofy but heck, that's the way it was. Your builds are always a joy to watch sir!

Jeremy, if you are not comfortable (like me) working with aluminium there is also the alternative to work with Evergreen rods and tubes. On these pics below I built the entire dumps from 3.2 mm rod, using a bit of heat to bend, then the last tip with 3.2 mm Evergreen tube. I further hollowed out the outlet with my #11 blade. Easy to build in sections, glue, sand and finish. Evergreen 4 mm also available if you want beefier pipes.

Good idea, just ordered a smaller set for experiments.

Jack, Future / Pledge Floor Care is out of production. I had the same question and have been testing a new product lately. Link to the tips section below, if that can help.

Looks fantastic Bill. So you basically skip the color coat and do this over white primer. 63 colors plus infinite mixing capabilities. If this brush painter had the possibility to air brush I would definitely go for this. Fantastic idea.

Might I suggest taping the edge with Tamiya 2mm tape for curves 87177, if you are not already doing it. It's a plastic tape that stretches so curves are very easy to do, and thin so no bleed through. I've has good success with it.

Very very nice build. I am surprised by the level of detailing considering the small scale.

Jeez...how many J1's do you have Gary. I keep seeing new body parts popping up. Now admit it, your parts box is a cargo container right?

Looks really good. Personal preference but I like the panel line as it is. On my last white car (Chaparral) I used a gray wash for panel line and it preferred it to the high contrast of the black panel line.

Hey Paul, remember not so long ago that Chris was taunting you, writing that he'd easily beat you to the finish line because you tend to be distracted by other projects? Well you are totally focused, moving fast and the stuff looks simply fabulous! What can we say Chris, hope is not a strategy...?

I would not call it beautiful but my favorite because it was my first weathered paint and I had no clue how to do this. All done with brushes.

Steve, I understand your point about the limitations of Future and my thread was not as selling it as something better than clear. I'm not selling here. That being said, many among us use Future, each for our own reasons, and the stuff is out of production so the topic is about testing Quick Shine as a possible replacement. Pointing out here that I brush paint everything because I build in a condo in the winter in Montreal. I do use Tamiya X22 clear which I do polish. I build race cars with decals and I want them protected, hence the process polished X22 clear, decals and Future seal coat (unpolished) as the final step. This latest test is with Quick Shine replacing Future as a final seal coat brushed on a (gulp) black body. A touch less gloss than Future but easier to brush on. I think the lower gloss is ok and looks period correct for 60's racecar builds that I usually do. So my verdict is that Quick Shine is a go for me

Amazing what you have done...starting with that porous lump of metal.

Beautiful work David. Definitely inspiring me to do one someday, but perhaps the original LP400 if such a kit exists. Looks like you are close to finishing this beauty.

I would use 1/4 inch punch with 0.5 mm Evergreen to create the 4 bases/bexels, chrome paint it and fix the modelers lenses to it with Canopy or Krystal Clear glue

The mockup looks really good Gary. What is the plan for headlights, printed photos or you have actual parts going in?