Dpate

I paint in 35%-40% humidity, but that's inside. Since you're having issues with Tamiya i would take the humidity down, and do some tests on spare parts if you can. Also warm the cans up like you were doing, and make sure to really shake them, and than spray as usual. Keep about 10 inches away from the part, 2-3 mist coats..1 medium coat...1 medium wet coat. That's with 5-10 mins apart, and you are waiting between coats right?

Tamiya TS sprays & there primer is not the issue. You're probably spraying the last coat too wet too close, but you just need medium wet coat as Tamiya likes to go on wet and self level. Also where are you spraying? Inside or outside? Temp & humidity is good to know about especially if you're gonna use a clear in a can.

Gravity colors spain is the legit folks as the USA folks will scam you. Gravity colors, splash paints, MCW, scalefinishes, zero paints, and few others are all airbrush ready paints. There automotive brush ready paints and are hot paints, and you need a good quality primer for them. You'd be wise to test on something other than your main project until you got the hang of these type of paints, because they can damage plastic if you aren't careful.

You could go over it with regular primer weather it's surfacer or tamiya, but base white can act like a primer it just doesn't have the same filling properties as the others. I applied it same way i would surfacer - basically roughing up the surface 600 or 800 grit, and applied it the same as surfacer and it sands the same. Never had a issue with it rubbing off as it's basically surfacer just highly pigmented. You could go the silver route as well.

Yes I've seen it done on a plane propeller doing a wood grain finish with acrylics, and than took and made a oil paint wash, and used that over the propeller. I would be in the same boat as you as i only use automotive lacquers for car bodies. I'm not sure how fast it would dissolve, but it would damage the finish for sure. Most of the weathering i see done on lacquer is using either enamel or acrylic based washes etc. You can't use try other products or you just prefer oil paint weathering? I think the only way mineral spirits would be safe on lacquer is if it's done over a clear coat. You could try turpentine to thin the oil paint because turpentine wont dissolve lacquer, but i would test on something first. It's safer on lacquer than spirits, and would soften it a little, but i wouldn't dissolve it like spirits would.

ooooooooooweeeeeeeeee those look nice. Def keep sharp blades away lol.

Yeah i wouldn't use oil paint and mineral spirits on lacquer unless you did a flat clear coat. I know oil paints thinned down as a wash works great on acrylics. In my situation a good example even though it's different from yours - would be like lets say a rim? In the picture below what i would do in that situation would be paint the rim silver lacquer basecoat, and than an acrylic black like tamiya on top. Once dry you would take acrylic thinner on a q-tip, and slowly remove the black on the edges leaving just the silver. Is this bout the same idea you're asking about with compatibility? I know enamel thinner doesn't hurt lacquer long as you're easy with it. If i was that unsure I'd do a test spoon done in lacquer, and start doing little bit of weathering on it with the oil paint n spirits. Sorry I'm just not to sure about all the compatibilities there are when it comes to weathering.

I have the air brush version and it'll take about 3 coats to cover, but you wont get any bleed through like you could with the regular version primer. It's not the same as there surfacer, but can be used the same as surfacer, and it's more pigmented than regular surfacer. Here is a quote about the product: Mr.Base White is useful for making a black, red or other dark-colored surface white. This newly developed product uses special pigments to completely hide the base color and aids application of detailed finishing and top coats. Because it also works as a surfacer, it can be used to hide small imperfections.

Yeah i always put it back into the dehydrator after clear to keep it free of dust etc. If I'm not going to do anything after clear coating that day - i just leave it till next day no heat, and it'll be ready. 30 mins at the temps i use, but if it's gloss lacquer i would probably go bout 1 or 2 hours. Automotive lacquer paints already dry super fast so 30 mins or less @ 115 degrees it'll be ready for clear. 30 mins to an hour for all the lacquers i use tamiya, zero paints, scalefinishes, gravity colors, alclad, few others. I say to a hour because most of the time after it's done drying i still leave the parts in as I'm working on something else, but there's nothing wrong letting it bake longer if you want, but you don't have to wait 8 hours or 24 hours that's for sure. I've had 2K clear cured in 4 hours @ 120 degree's, and sand, and work on polish same day. So there's no way lacquer etc needs to take hours n hours n hours to dry with a dehydrator @ 115-120 degrees, and the melting point of the plastic we deal with is like over 200+F. I'm not knocking anyone else though if it sounds that way? I'm just stating what works for me, and you can always do some tests by spraying some junk parts or spoons , and put them in the dehydrator, and try different times/temps for different paints etc. The dehydrator zippi showed is a good one that alot of folks have even though mines different. All these food dehydrators in the $100+ range are all the same when it comes to how the heat is done inside the chamber. Allows heat to do full 360 inside the chamber allowing the heat to fully surround whatever is in evenly drying unlike the ones from micro mark where the heat rises from bottom to top where the top is the hottest point.

I've seen this done before, but if you aren't careful the tape can pull up the BMF as you pull the tape up. Did you do one long strip of BMF? Cause i would of did 5 pieces than 4 cuts for body lines. Good tip though.

Lacquer doesn't cure like enamel does, but it "flashes" where enamel cures created a hard shell. If you use a tamiya stand to hold the body and use dehydrator either use tape to hold the stand to the inside body or be sure the springs aren't tight against the body because I've seen, and heard of bodies expanding because of that. I use a small pvc pipe with tak to hold my bodies for painting and putting inside dehydrator. I do 115 degree's and I've never had any issues with plastic melting etc as styrene has a higher melting point, and takes lacquer less than 30 mins to be ready for whatever. I can sand primer within 30 mins, but a hour doesn't hurt & 2K clear cures in about 4 hours @ 115-120 degrees. If the paint is try to the touch you can put it on the base if you want, and i use auto motive paints for my car bodies, and there ready for clear coat within 30 mins. I'm not sure about enamel, but that depends on what brand you use, but you could always test on a spoon for drying times. Tamiya, scalefinishes, zero paint, etc 115-120 degrees 30 mins and there ready for clear coat, actually could be less i just always go 30 mins. You can go longer, but you wont need a half or full day of drying even at 110 degree's.

Little bit, but Pepsi & tax money lol. The stuff I recently posted that came in before this, and with this stuff it was close to bout a $1,000. Surprisingly though some of that was pricey shipping from plaza Japan, and Hiroboy. The plaza Japan order was about $680 that’s with like $170+ shipping which compared to buying all this out the states you’d spend way more money. Lot of the Tamiya tape was .89cents, and that 1:6 scale bike was like $50 which sales for $100+ everywhere else. The scale hobbyist order wasn’t suppose to happen, but I thought I had the GT Supra - so that’s why I didn’t get it from plaza. That’s why it’s shrink wrapped in plastic - because no kit will come from plaza Japan wrapped but, $22 kit ended up costing $33 + shipping so I just added little more to it to justify the shipping from scale hobbyist. I’m pretty much done buying kits for now besides the new Tamiya super car coming out in April. But life has hit me hard at the same time with me recently getting a eviction notice because of my now ex etc etc. So I got to get all that sorted out, and with my soon to be 4 year old son.

Plaza Japan order, scale hobbyist, hiroboy. Lots of cool stuff Had no idea the 1:6 scale would be that big.

Well you can get good with a airbrush, but mastering it will take a very long time. If you want to "master" a brush you need to master a double action because a single action is just a better version of a spray bomb. If you're wanting true acrylics than Tamiya is a hybrid and mr color is a lacquer, and I'll answer your 3 questions now. 1. Tamiya & Mr color thin with Mr leveling thinner and for acrylics a dedicated acrylic thinner or water. Mr leveling thinner will work on any hybrid or lacquer paint, and probably the best thinner on the market related to the hobby. 2.This depends on needle size and air pressure, but for tamiya and mr color 1:1 or 1:2. 3.Again depends on needle size, but i do know tamiya & mr color works just fine between 15-20 PSI .5 iwata eclispe. You might need higher PSI for the paasche as i only use double action brushes only. If you want the best finish for tamiya and mr color use mr leveling thinner if you're able to get it. I don't really use Tamiya X-XF series anymore I'm moving towards there LP series which is straight lacquer. There much better especially the metallic ones. If you want the acrylic version of Mr.Color check out there aqueous line up as Mr.color is lacquer.

Yes that's the one.

I don't really have one as of yet, but i know a lot of folks the 1970 dodge charger R/T by revell will be a holy grail.

Yeah that clear coat will dull the finish. Spaz Stix for airbrush will give you much much better results than the can version. Do you still got your molotow markers? You can always open them and pour out the paint into something like a 10ml bottle like tamiya a new one. I spray all my normal chrome paints over alclad gloss black base, but if you want the best shine you'd need 2K clear over base coat. Duralumen Chrome

You could also get this is you want the best durable and bang for your buck. Sells off etsy.

As it being a ink and bout the same as super chrome from AK you can spray it over anything and it'll chrome up lol.

Green stuff world has two versions of there chrome one for airbrush & one for paint brush. AK's super chrome is better than molotow in my opinion, and it can be brushed or airbrushed as well, but I'm not a fan of it so i just use it for detail work. Alclad chrome isn't that sensitive to where you can't buff it or touch it lol. Alclad, Kustom service, green stuff world, AK super chrome, spazstix, AK Xtreme chrome, gia notes silver plate, etc etc the list can go on, and on, and on. All chrome paint is sensitive, and isn't the most durable, and can not be clear coated or else you'll lose the shine. The most durable though that I've used is Kustom service, and Spazstix, and you spray pretty much all of them the same 12-15PSI nice mist coats. If you go chrome chasing, and test them all, and spray them properly you'll realize there all bout the same just one might be a tad brighter than the other.

Looks alright. There's just too many better options out there to warrant giving this a try. Alclad still #1 though lol.

The only thing bought from out of town was the Lego's. Everything else was most of my orders that came in. Sadly one bottle of gravity colors was busted, and got all over the other bottles, and ruined the labels so i had to clean them all up, and put new labels on. I'm hoping they send me a replacement. EDIT: So contacted them with pics, and they said they're going to ship out a new bottle tomorrow

Well hopefully I'm still alive by than still got a couple decades left in me lol.

I was mainly speaking out loud for anyone that does see this post so they don't get old stock. I should of been more specific so that's my fault lol.