Dpate

Haven't had this issue yet considering mine aren't that old. Only issue I've had with the 1mm versions is last time i tried to cover emblem detail instead of covering just the letters the chrome covers the letters and in between the letters. Its like too much just comes out or I'm just using them wrong lol.

Well it does, but its been a issue with BMF not wanting to stick that great. Reason i thought the glue itself would of been a good idea reason i had grabbed a bottle of it at the shop. Never tried actual kitchen foil though.

So it would be easier to put it on the BMF itself?

Have you tried using BMF adhesive on the area where the foil will go? I have a bottle, but haven't tried it yet. I'm thinking scribing around the area to deep the area where the foil sits in and using the adhesive would make it stick better.

May give the isopropyl a try next go around. Thanks

Yeah the lvling thinner works just about with anything almost. I have the rapid thinner, but I've only used it with flat colors and it works fantastic. Test on a spoon to see how it'll do with metallics. Be careful ordering anything off amazon tamiya or mr hobby, because you will end up over paying a lot on a lot of products. Mr.Rapid thinner is one of those products that isn't that popular and a lot of people probably never heard of or knew existed. It's made specifically for using with metallics to help the metallics level out more even(Because of decreased drying time), but also works great with flat paints as well. Also i checked amazon and $12 is about right as with other places spraygunner etc.

True that. I guess it's just part of modeling.

Yeah this is a AMT kit. Super clean or 100% lye would not remove the underlayer from certain spots. Don't know what chemical could be used to remove stubborn spots like that besides using to #11 blade to get it off, and than you got to sand that back right. Like the spots that were left over was stained with super clean(Now shiny), and even the 100% lye wouldn't even get that off.

I think model round up sells decals for tires but think there just good year and maybe eagle. I have some of these whitewalls wide vinyl transfers for tires too. Everyone else has great suggestions.

So everything is good with the ultrasonic cleaner. At 40C i know pretty high, but it cleans great and doesn't affect the lye at all or the parts. 104F is safe because i do 110F in my dry booth. Still a spot or two on the parts of the clear left, and that's after taking it out the lye bath it was already in for days, and than putting the parts into the ultrasonic cleaner for multiple 20 min cycles at 40C. Don't know what they used - because it's the most toughest stuff to get off compared to any kit I've ever de-chromed. Also 100% lye does NOT yellow parts or have any ill affect on the parts.

Looks good man.

I know with alclads primer it doesn't take a very long time to be ready for top coat even for sanding. I know with scale finish paint you can prime, paint, and clear in a day. This all factors in with humidity and temp, but with a dehydrator it's all good.

Haven't used that one. I have the 2k by 1finish.

Gotcha! I will def keep a close eye on it.

Haven't tried stripping tamiya primer as that's not my main primer even though i have a fresh can. I mainly use alclads primer, mr surfacer, and titan hobby by ak which is AMAZING primer probably even better than tamiya. There black is so nice I'll use it for anything that is matt black. The removable tub is stainless steel so hopefully that wont have an issue, and it'll only be at 70F with a lid so shouldn't bubble that bad or if at all. People that use it for soap use at around 100+. EDIT: Yeah just looked it up and found this: " Lye reacts with some metals: aluminum, zinc, and tin. Safe containers include heatproof stoneware, glass, enamel, stainless steel and plastic."

That makes sense now that you explain it that way. I got a heated ultrasonic cleaner coming in tomorrow, and it'll allow me to set it to whatever temp i want and should do alot better than just having the parts sitting in the liquid.

Will do.

Gotcha and thanks for the help as everyone else. Also yes i hope to get to his level one day.

Going to start doing it myself.

I own the smaller one. It stopped heating like 3 days ago, and I've emailed them about replacement parts etc but haven't heard anything back. I've only had it for 11 months and probably used it 4 of those months like 2-3 hours every other day.

Yeah i was thinking of putting a heater like you would use in a fish tank into the container and have it set for 70F to keep it heated. Good idea or no? Would that work for the lye too heating it up? Well the instructions on the bottle just explain how to add it to a drain. I just add it to the water very slowly and mix it using a plastic spoon and avoiding any splashing. Yes. The only concern I've had was if the lye was causing any issue/damage that's all. Seems it's not so think I'm good to go.

hmmmm....Interesting. Will do lol

No i don't think its the clear undercoat -that's 100% gone. Just looks stained. This is after sitting in the lye for 2 days. So it's got to be just the parts itself so I'm probably gonna put a nice white part from a RIP kit and let it sit in the lye for 2 days and see what happens. I think the lye is 100% safe so after i use up this new gallon of super clean I'm gonna stick with the 100% lye. It works even faster than the super clean, and it's pretty amazing to watch it eat away the chrome in a matter of seconds lol.

So here are the pics guys. It may be just the part itself.

I own few colors of that brand. Good stuff, but you could prob shop around and get little cheaper. I got mine from the actual site when they had a coupon.