Dpate

This is the dehydrator i have now https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083DZ24GF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details since my micro mark one died on me just the heating element, but i don't know how too fix it lol. When i bought the one in the link i got it for around $99 so it's went up since than, but it's really nice. You can adjust the temp to what you want, set the timer to what you want, and it'll auto shut off when done too. To answer your other question yeah the cold will slow down the drying time especially since you have no hardener in it. A dehydrator will def help you like 6-8 hours around 110F it should be nice and cure.

The technique I'm talking about applies more so too non trigger brushes. Learning the technique on a trigger brush would like learning the clutch release in a vehicle. But it's not really that important IMO with a trigger style brush, but more so a regular lever brush. On a regular lever brush you press down for air, and pull back for paint. BUT what most people do is let go of the lever and that's where you're doing it wrong. It helps with dry tip, and specs of paint getting in your work, but again most will just shoot paint off to the side to clear anything. This video will explain everything I'm saying lol. At around 2:53 point is what i was just talking about too about getting specs of paint in your work.

I own Iwata eclipse, Iwata revolution, and GSI Creo procon boy PS-290. I use them all on a compressor called "No-Name" you can get from spraygunner. The Iwata eclipse you can even get from hobby lobby, and it's one of the better "all in one" so ta speak brushes you can get quality and cheap wise. Haven't used my Revolution much, and the PS-290 with its fan cap i use for bodies. Feels like painting a actual car using it lol. All these air brushes i named are dual action, and i look at single and duel this way using this analogy. Single actions are like automatic vehicles easier to learn on, and duel action brushes are like manual vehicles - takes lots of practice to get good technique. The BIG technique I'm talking about goes as follows: " Press down on trigger, pull back for paint, keep trigger pressed down while keeping air going while pushing forward to stop paint flow." That technique is how you properly use a duel action brush. Honestly at the end of the day no single air brush will make you a better painter. I've seen amazing work done with the paasche H, and I've seen amazing work with the best iwatas etc. NEVER airbrushed before my whole life before getting into this hobby, and i took the risk going kinda big when it came to airbrushing not knowing if i was going to enjoy it or not, but ended up loving it. If i was you I'd start small and than move up like a motorcycle that way if you don't enjoy airbrushing than you wouldn't be out to big of a loss. BUT also depending on the person starting out on not so great hardware can make you actually not like something where as if you had started on something better quality that will actually make you enjoy it - if that makes sense?

Well red and white makes pink. Maybe the red body didn't get covered enough?

Tamiya, Mr.hobby, Alclad, and titan hobby is all i use for primers. Titans hobby black and gray primer is amazing too.

My man those are some SWEETTTTTTTTTTTTT! rides.

LOL

Might have to try and get better with the pins or use silver sharpie OR kitchen foil route with BMF adhesive.

The foldable booths you can connect 2 up to each other.

I had one of those folding paint booths until i upgraded by building my own using a dayton blower. The folding booths are good for basic painting meaning nothing too strong. Forget about 2K clear for example. Pretty easy maintenance etc check out more youtube videos on them.

Off topic but sinse you just got into big rigs keep an eye out at ollies. I've gotten few big rig kits lately from them for $20 that retail online $45 a pop.

Haven't had this issue yet considering mine aren't that old. Only issue I've had with the 1mm versions is last time i tried to cover emblem detail instead of covering just the letters the chrome covers the letters and in between the letters. Its like too much just comes out or I'm just using them wrong lol.

Well it does, but its been a issue with BMF not wanting to stick that great. Reason i thought the glue itself would of been a good idea reason i had grabbed a bottle of it at the shop. Never tried actual kitchen foil though.

So it would be easier to put it on the BMF itself?

Have you tried using BMF adhesive on the area where the foil will go? I have a bottle, but haven't tried it yet. I'm thinking scribing around the area to deep the area where the foil sits in and using the adhesive would make it stick better.

May give the isopropyl a try next go around. Thanks

Yeah the lvling thinner works just about with anything almost. I have the rapid thinner, but I've only used it with flat colors and it works fantastic. Test on a spoon to see how it'll do with metallics. Be careful ordering anything off amazon tamiya or mr hobby, because you will end up over paying a lot on a lot of products. Mr.Rapid thinner is one of those products that isn't that popular and a lot of people probably never heard of or knew existed. It's made specifically for using with metallics to help the metallics level out more even(Because of decreased drying time), but also works great with flat paints as well. Also i checked amazon and $12 is about right as with other places spraygunner etc.

True that. I guess it's just part of modeling.

Yeah this is a AMT kit. Super clean or 100% lye would not remove the underlayer from certain spots. Don't know what chemical could be used to remove stubborn spots like that besides using to #11 blade to get it off, and than you got to sand that back right. Like the spots that were left over was stained with super clean(Now shiny), and even the 100% lye wouldn't even get that off.

I think model round up sells decals for tires but think there just good year and maybe eagle. I have some of these whitewalls wide vinyl transfers for tires too. Everyone else has great suggestions.

So everything is good with the ultrasonic cleaner. At 40C i know pretty high, but it cleans great and doesn't affect the lye at all or the parts. 104F is safe because i do 110F in my dry booth. Still a spot or two on the parts of the clear left, and that's after taking it out the lye bath it was already in for days, and than putting the parts into the ultrasonic cleaner for multiple 20 min cycles at 40C. Don't know what they used - because it's the most toughest stuff to get off compared to any kit I've ever de-chromed. Also 100% lye does NOT yellow parts or have any ill affect on the parts.

Looks good man.

I know with alclads primer it doesn't take a very long time to be ready for top coat even for sanding. I know with scale finish paint you can prime, paint, and clear in a day. This all factors in with humidity and temp, but with a dehydrator it's all good.

Haven't used that one. I have the 2k by 1finish.

Gotcha! I will def keep a close eye on it.