Casey

Exactly. Maybe low expectations, but I think this is a realistic and positive outcome. Thanks for taking the time to take pictures and share here, Tommy.

Yes, I've seen that image, and the person who printed it mentioned that is the actual raw, printed product. No question that is very nice, but I would like to see an up close image. Here's the info regarding where that image was posted: https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/next-by-reedoak-3d-printed-figures.76813/ And here's the info regarding the printer which was used. No cost for the printer is listed, as you must request a quote: https://envisiontec.com/3d-printers/perfactory-family/ Introducing the only DLP-based 3D printers utilizing a true 4M pixel projector with UV optics tuned to 385nm wavelength. The P4K Series delivers the highest accuracy coupled with the highest finished product functionality. Utilizing Artificial Intelligence (AI) in pixel tuning to deliver extremely high quality surface finish, the P4K delivers next generation advanced DLP technology in 3D printing: https://envisiontec.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/2018-P4K-Series.pdf I was told there'd be no math. I think there will always be a demand for things which are, for lack of better words, "hand made", but I think you are right regarding the line between good enough and unacceptable shifting with multiple variables-- cost availability, ease of use, etc. Probably fodder for a larger discussion regarding craftsmanship, standards, and recognition of quality, though.

Your posts and experience regarding 3D printing have been the most helpful I have read on the forum, and for those interested, here's one of Doug's earlier posts worth reading: One thing I find frustrating is the insistence upon using a virtual or rendered image to show the finished product, when it does not give an accurate representation of what the finished product looks like. This is very common on Shapeways, but maybe that particular site does not allow people to upload images of the finished, printed items in each available print medium? It leaves the end user guessing, and essentially, going in partially blind as to what the will receive. Doug, you have posted pictures of actual, printed items, and even taken the time to explain the different resolutions and how the thickness of each layer affects the look of the finished part, which has been very helpful. Unfortunately for me, even after paint has been applied and the parts has been sanded to remove some of the high spots, I can still see the texture. If the part is supposed to be smooth and I can see texture, it won't work. I think the thing most people tend to gloss over is there is a fundamental difference between how 3D parts are created and how a model part is created using a two-part mold. One allows for perfectly (or nearly so, far beyond what the human eye can perceive) smooth parts, with graceful curves and crisp, sharp corners which can maintain their integrity, while the other cannot reproduce these features. I hesitate to add the qualifier "yet" to the end of the previous sentence, because I'm not convinced 3D printing will ever reach that point, and maybe it was never designed to. Perhaps instead of thinking about 3D printed parts as a replacement for traditional injection molded parts, we should be thinking of it as and additional option, with it's own unique limitations and features.

Looks like the hood side panels are too tall, raising the rear of the hood, causing a very visible mis-match where the hood meets the cowl panel, and at the horizontal bodyline. Are these the parts which Roger Hayes mastered?

As a general rule, if a seller can't make time to take well lit pictures, and provide a clear description, including proper grammar and punctuation, I'll pass. If they don't care enough to accurately inform people what they are selling, how much more care will they have put into the product itself?

Here's a larger image, showing the reamers up close:

Fortunately there's a topic for that:

This is one kit(s) which is(are) trending toward more expensive on eBay, with most recent sales of complete kits in the $30+ range. I expect that will only increase, as it seems highly unlikely this kit will be reissued, well, ever.

Chevy BBC donors? 1/25 Revell '69 Yenko Camaro, Revell '66 Chevelle Wagon, Revell '67 Cheveelle SS 396-- all used a very similar block heads, etc but the '69 Yenko Cmaro includes nice tube style headers which would probably pass for Hooker brand headers. Tri-Five Chevies equipped with V8s used a front engine mount, under the timing cover, which was changed later to two side engine mounts. It's possible you brother's engine used a mid-engine plate (basically a plate between the engine block and scattershield), so might be worth asking him. Holley carb-- hard to see it once the air cleaner is in place, so the Revell kit piece would probably be fine if you are not displaying the finished model with the air cleaner off. If you're a stickler for details, other will suggest one to use. If you're going to mount an actual shifter and linkage to the model, seek out the Model Car Garage Muncie trans and shifter, #MCG-2122 The scattershield might be a bit more challenging to find. I can only think of Buick, early Hemi, and SBC parts in kits. A scattershield is a bit more robust than a cast steel or almunim factory bellhousing, but they can look similar...or quite different. Vintage Ansen scattershield: Lakewood scattershield: Alternator and water pump can come from the '69 Yenko Camaro kit. Not sure how he used a six-cylinder pump on a BBC? The rearend can come from the AMT '62 Pontiac Catalina kit-- hands down the best 1/25 Pontiac rearend available, though you will need to remove the control arm brackets/tabs and set it up to work with leaf springs (assuming that was the rear suspension he used?). I used the same rearend on an AMT/Revell '55 Chevy: He mounted 14' up front and 15" tires in the back, all with Cragar SS mags, Rear Tires had 9 1/2' thread-Lots of choices here, but I need suggestions for the best kit or after-market for these. Are you sure about that? The picture you posted in the earlier topic shows American Racing Equipment style Torq Thrust wheels up front, not Cragar S/S wheels:

Bead reamers will work for enlarging holes, too, but they have a larger taper than a metal working reamer would: Not sure if there is a such a thing as a micro reamer, similar to needle files?

Another of Revell's 1/25 scale SnapTite, Easy Builder, and/or Wheels of Fire snap-together style kits is this '77 Chevy Monte Carlo, offered in four (maybe more?) versions, as pictured below. Same formula as the others-- promo style, relief detail chassis, highly polished body molded in color, with a multipiece interior, resulting in a easy to assemble, yet accurate finished curbside model. I believe the #85-1918 Revel '77 Monte Carlo Lowrider kit was the original offering in the year 2000, with a body shell molded in blue, and white interior parts: Also the #85-1350 '77 Monte Carlo Lowrider Pro Finish kit in 2000, with a pre-painted body and graphics: Kit #85-1933 was issued in 2006, this time with lime green body parts and large diameter wheels and low-profile tires: Last, kit #85-1962 from 2011, this time featuring red molded body parts and stock Chevy Rally style wheels: Here's a link to a great review and build up of the above issue: http://www.rightonreplicas.com/blog/?page_id=1259

Beautiful.

This is one of very few kits which have 'extra' space in the rear wheelhousings to fit wider tires, but there are limits. I think the 20" wheels and tires from the Revell '69 Shelby GT500 would work, but up front you may need to make some modifications for clearance, and if desired, lowering. You mentioned the AMT '67 Chevelle-- is it the stock type version or the Pro Street version? I don't think there's enough room to fit the Pro Street rear tires under the T-Bolt.

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Not exactly a tutorial, but here's one way to do it, on the sibling 1/24 Monogram '70 Dodge Challenger T/A, which has the same valence panel issue:

Glue, just not many parts in total, and IIRC, curbside, too.

Contents of the 1/25 Revell '63 Corvette Sting Ray Coupe, kit #85-1955, can be viewed here: http://modelkitreviews.proboards.com/thread/1006/revell-1955-corvette-sting-snaptite This particular issue was released in 2008...: ...but there was an earlier (and I believe, the first) "Wheels of Fire" issue from 2002, which had a red molded body and stock six-spoke full wheel covers: The currently/recently available version is again much like the "Wheels of Fire" version, with a red molded body an the stock wheel covers. A review of this version can be viewed here: http://www.internetmodeler.com/scalemodels/flautomotive/Revell-1-25-Snap-Tite-63-Corvette-Sting-Ray-Coupe.php Despite the curbside nature of this kit, with a little work and some wheel swapping between the other Revell SnapTitie kits, a gorgeous finished model results, as can be seen here:

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Not sure if that was intended or not. I guess whoever designed this kit had to wrestle with the dilemma of making the Slingster true to the Sizzler, only scaled down a tad, or being similar, yet 'corrected' in certain areas. As Steve Goldman stated a few pages back, I think the Slingster was a case of the former, inaccuracies be damned. The scoops for both look remarkably similar, despite the small scle difference between the two.

The narration leaves a lot to be desired, but this is a nice, recent tour through Gene Winfield's shop, showing many of his vehicles, including the Reactor: Another, also featuring the Reactor and Strip Star, which wears Terra Thrust wheels:

I'm surprised there aren't more images available online, but maybe on CC's facebook page.

AMC did just that, creating the Tarpon: https://www.marlinautoclub.com/create/Tarpon_Concept_Car.htm