George Bojaciuk

Part 2 should be in your mailbox, if you signed up! Enjoy!

Do you know Karl Sheffer? Lol! No....there is actually a notch up front. I will check it and adjust if needed.

Last parts done and shot! A detailed how-to will be up on RAR soon! ....and all this just for the interior!

Thanks Greg! To you and yours, as well!

Thanks!

After all these years.....it clicked! Didn't realize until just now, that was you!

Thanks so much, Jeff! The backstory inspires the build. SAE was never interested in it in later years. My format allows me to write about it all and in detail. The other benefit is that a reader can contact me directly for additional info.

I can see some curiosity has been piqued! If you are not on my mailing list, you have not seen part 1. If you are, all I can say is that Part 2 is jam packed with pics and details. I'm a dash tach away from completing my '55's interior.. I have over 40 detailed pics on how I got to the point you see! I'm also not shy with sharing technique. Many of you old timers may already know this from my previous writings! If you are not on my email list and would like to see Part 1, I will gladly email it to you. Just message me with where to send. If you want to sign on, you can do so by the JOIN OUR MAILING LIST block, in the Part 1 segment. BTW, only I generate emails and manage the list. NO ONE ELSE can access my list. My column is tied to my private auction. You can play if you want to and it is sent out when I have time to gather stuff and put it out. No schedule, no nutin'.....hey, I'm retired and enjoying it! This will cost you zip. As always, Gregg is more than welcome to reprint anything in my column. I seek no compensation from him. I've enjoyed many years in modeling/writing and this is my way of giving back and saying thanks. If it generates interest here, then I'm happy as well! ...and oh, if you really don't like what I write about it's easy to opt out. No harm, no foul. My humor is not for everyone! A final thanks for letting me tease you here!

Guaranteed riveting reading!

This is my old build. Appeared on the cover of my book. 2nd Monogram release. I had to make the hood back then. I enjoyed the build and after a few years, it still displays well. This was supposed to be the car I ordered back in the day. I found the old order sheet and built the model to that order!

Part 2 is deeply in the works!

Hope you all have a great holiday!

It did exist....almost bought a Kammback.

I may have one....need to check my stock.

I built a garage as a design concept for product, using the Fujimi kit as a base. As someone said, it is short, so I lengthened the floor and made my own walls.The floor extension was masked by making it concrete expansion joint. The core of the walls was sheet plastic, the inner, wood and the outer was made from Evergreen "siding". Some Fugimi tools were used, but I looked in many of my parts boxes and found stuff I could use. SEL came in handy, big time, as did some MRC equipment from older accessory parts kits I had. I also appropriated some diecast resin accessories that I found in our storeroom . Here's what I cobbled together... They liked it so much that they wanted me to tear it apart and slip it into a shadow box....gave me the weekend to do it! The original top had a slit, which made it look like a tissue dispenser. I opened up the top and laid in some acrylic sheet...and no, I didn't tear it up! I made another! ....and so it went to production as this....you can see that the name brands were made generic!

Diecast has it's own issues. Sealing it really helps. Depending on what Zamak was used, will determine if it reacts with itself. If you look on some diecast forums, you'll see diecast cancer as a topic. There was an issue in China with Zamak and it became very expensive in short order. To meet budgets, they sub'd Zamak II instead of the better III. The II contained more copper. This did not get along with aluminum and galvanic corrosion would occur. New pennies have this issue, if you've noticed. In some instances the parts would just crumble. Diecast cars are not painted like we paint them as hobbyists. Paint comes down a spinning cylinder as parts twirl on a tree in a large room. If you put an eye loupe on a paint job, you can see how porous it is. Moisture gets in, reacts and starts the corrosive process. I've repainted many diecasts and epoxy would be a good choice. It's expensive, about $25 a can, so I would line up my projects to maximize the can yield before it goes bad. You usually get a 48 hour window once you push that red button. I have used etching primer with a coat of a sealer primer. Etch doesn't like black paint and will craze it over time. You need that barrier. I have cars painted in acrylic lacquer and in urethanes and they are holding up great! However, they were painted the conventional way we do it. Better surface seal. As for my street creds, I was a design manager at the Franklin Mint. Any questions when you get to doing them, please feel free to PM me. Be happy to share.

I mix on business cards, not in the can. Only take what I need. My original can lasted years. Always made sure the lid was on tight. Occasionally, I'd check for separation and mix it up. The blue hardener tube (actual container) broke down over time and cracked. I just picked up another tube for only a few bucks. I finally threw my original putty away, since I had access to a fresh batch. I'd say I had it about 10 years. I've used it on home projects, as well. Use what you want and what your budget allows. Just sharing my personal experience with both types of fillers. If I spend many hours working on something, I don't want it cracking 6 months from now. Had it happen and it's most frustrating. My Motion Chevelle appeared on the cover of my book....around 1997... As I said, it still looks good more than 20 years later. (It was a magazine article car prior). You can get epoxy primer in cans. However once you activate the can, you have a window in which to use it. The can uses an internal bladder which you puncture to activate the two components. Freezing the can may get you a week's use since lowering the temp slows the chemical reaction. Again, on plastic, you don't need epoxy primer. If you go to Eastwood's site and search for "epoxy primer", there is a nice explanation and a video by Kevin Tetz. Nice guy, as I got to meet him and chat at our car show. There are a lot of great videos on the Eastwood site as well as YouTube.

Agree with Ace and my bad for not being specific on the primer, yes....epoxy primer on metal. On plastic you should be fine.

Super Clean: Ingredients include Sodium Metasilicate and the biggie... Sodium Hydroxide. I think the purple stuff doesn't have the Sodium Hydroxide.

The can states 1/4 putty from the can to 1/4 of the tube of BLUE hardner. From my experience 3:1. If you dig out a blob with a tongue depressor and it's about the size of a quarter, add a dimes worth of hardener. The color should be a light blue, when mixed. If you use too much catalyst (blue), it will harden rapidly, not leaving you time to work with it. Too little and it will take a while. The proper mix will give you a good 20 mins work time. Let it set overnight before you sand for the best results. 2lb can was about $29.00 with a tube of hardener. Autobody Toolmart.com has it. Any good auto store will carry it as well as an automotive refinishing supply shop. When I worked at Eastwood, we had it on the shelf. I've done wheel flares and hood scoops and never had it shrink or crack. Love this stuff. Sands easily. My '70 Motion Chevelle had it on the hood and to this day, it looks great! Squadron Green stuff always disappointed. My rule of thumb is...if it is single stage, it uses a solvent to cure. As that evaporates, it will shrink. A two stage uses a chemical reaction to cure. If using on metal, prime the metal first as any chemical cure produces heat and heat causes condensation. Trapped moisture will cause rust. The two stage does not rely on evaporation and there is no shrinkage. One of the party bonuses working at Eastwood! Get to know about this stuff.

I use Evercoat Eurosoft....love it! Sands easily! Quarter to dime rule on mixing. Mark Gustavson mentioned this stuff in an article and I have not looked back since. No shrinkage or issues down the lane!

A while back, I encouraged a friend to change out his vinyl hose with a metal dryer hose. Recently, he went to relocate his booth and the hose disintegrated. Me...I learned the hard way. I was working on a project that had a deadline. While spraying, my hose decided to self destruct, spewing fine dust all throughout the shop, while I scrambled for the switch. My project was ruined. Took a few all nighters to get back on track. The vinyl attracts the overspray as it goes thru the tube. It attaches to the inside walls. The solvents in the paint and in thinners eventually break down the tube. It gets brittle and becomes a time bomb! Home stores carry a metal dryer hose for under $10. Cheap insurance!

Those who requested info should be enjoying the written stuff. I have been getting many emails asking me to get on with my Pro Touring Maverick, so as to get the paint info. I am a ways from getting to it. I may just do a special piece on mixing and actually using urethane. I studied the procedure and clean up and I think it can be a stand alone column. If this floats your boat, I'll gather up the info.

Just send me your email. There is no charge for this.

That is looking great!