Dr Crapologist

Yeah, these efforts produce effective results. I had a rheostat box (where did that go?) that I could plug my dremel into so I could dial down the rpm and get more precise and not melt the plastic. I also wrap/glue sandpaper around a block eraser for getting into corners. The Xacto flat chisel blade #17 works well for scraping. Depending on how much component detail you've got behind the grille, you can paint some loose weave fabric to replicate a radiator, etc. Cheers,

Hope I'm in the right forum. Here's an ebay horror: https://www.ebay.com/itm/225777930412 Nice box and plenty of parts; no instructions! But a full Franklin? I'll bet it doesn't get paid and the seller relists. Sheesh!, Doc

I've got a 2002 edition and the box makes no mention of "cyclone gt" although everything in the interior does. As Snake mentioned, the body has the mid-body crease on the rear fender but it's totally missing on the door and fender. The sixties molding is much better though they did a better job on the hood scoops in the modern one. While the decals are decent the GT badges mentioned in the instructions are mere blobs of chrome; not even flat. A quick look at Model Car World's photo-etch shows badges for Mustang GT's but nothing suitable for this. Anyone else see any? Several postings in model mags of the nineties panned the job they did on the Fairlane, close but no cigar. Missed things on this one too but it's close enough for your average enthusiast. To fix that midbody crease one would have to glue an appropriately sized piece of sprue, maybe some putty and a real finesse job of sanding. I wonder if Evergreen has tri-angular sprue available? That rectangular divot where the "Comet 390" badge is looks odd to me. If I had been on the design team I would have used a chrome surround (partial) or even better, a vent or scoop and moved the badge in front of the door. hth, Doc

To echo previous sentiments, it's all in the timing. Microscale instructions say to apply your Set, WAIT one hour, then apply the Sol. Do not touch! Let it do its work. Over the years, modelers have found ways of short cutting the Set and Sol wait time with various results, I prefer to follow the instructions. The solutions originally came in dropper bottles which is how it's supposed to be applied, thereby negating any touching/ mechanical interference. ADDITIONALLY you want your surface to be on a horizontal plane so the solutions don't dribble away too fast thereby obstructing the ability of the solutions to do their job. Hope that helps, Doc

Wow! Out of my wallet range. There was another partially built SIGNED by Mr. Norm himself, went for around $300. Another one is currently over $300. Question is, why would you want that kit when you could work the readily available Polar Lights kit? MPC did a fun job making those frame based drag cars. Might not of been totally accurate in some cases but still fun. Wish I'd bought a few, musta been busy with work or school. We'll see what the swap meets bring this fall. Sad I'm going to miss the IPMS Nationals in Texas. Cheers, Doc

Well I finally unstapled my wallet and bought the gangbusters release of the 28 Lincoln and the 32 Chrysler. The Lincoln was re-issued in 96 and I still found one reasonably priced! I have one I bought a couple of decades ago that's mostly assembled and don't feel like wrestling that. Any body got a foolproof de-gluing technique? The 32 Chryler has limited pinstriping decals: It's only got white pinstriping which I suppose is fine if you're not doing a white car. The seventies edition had white and black but like most MPC decals of this era, they didn't hold up well. They've got the pin striping for the engine louvers but none of the restorations I've seen show these as being used. I have seen other colors, red, amber, green being used; wonder if someone with more talent than me ever did these decals? Cheers, Doc

For modeling purposes you might want to contact Model Car World for 1932 era paint formulations. Here's a link: https://mcwfinishes.com/shop/ols/categories/1930-1960-chrysler-corp?page=3 That's a rippin' color combo on your link! I wonder how close to factory that is? They must have paid big money for the photo session for the seamless background. I've done some research on the colors that were used by the factory, there's plenty of sites that you can look at. hth Doc

Great looking classic autos! When the original Gangbusters series came out around '66, four of them had 'photobox' covers. The Chrysler roadster did not, had nice box art with the Gangbusters equipment described on a side panel: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/mpc-204-200-chrysler-roadster-1932--1127306 Here's an article with pix of the full display that was at the IPMS Nationals in '15: https://forum.ipmsusa3.org/topic/15576-gangbusters-at-the-2015-columbus-nationals/#comment-84012 Hope I get one of these built soon or maybe all five! Cheers, Doc

The Polar Lights tinted kits were called "chase kits" because you had to chase around different stores trying to find one. They were packaged one in a dozen box so smart retailers would get the dozen box and sell the tinted kit at a premium. Sheesh, just make them all tinted why don't ya? I think I bought one and then realized I just needed to buy the clear kit and paint it with translucent paint. I don't see the clear kits at swap meets much anymore. I always wanted the David Pearson GTO ever since viewing it in the April Fools article on "Clearview 2000!" Great gag, wonder if I can find that issue in my library? There's a few of those kits on ebay this week, wonder if Round 2 is envisioning a repop? Wish I had some of those clear hoods from the sixties. I might work on the 53 Stude to whet my appetite. Cheers, Doc

It's been awhile but I remember using naptha (lighter fluid) to erase small spots of adhesive. You gots to be careful you don't rub against previous paint coat. Shave off two sides of a dental applicator: https://www.amazon.com/Regular-Disposable-Applicator-Bendable-Brushes/dp/B07S6D3BZ5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?c=ts&keywords=Dental+Applicators&qid=1685131354&s=industrial&sr=1-1-spons&ts_id=8297592011&psc=1&smid=A2OM5ZEZ9J7EWQ&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSU1KVEgxRkpSM09IJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTM1Mjg4VjFPTzlOVjA1MllJJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMTY0MzUzSFEwMElES0tXTVlLJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== That will give you a precision applicator. As mentioned, great for chrome and aircraft canopies but Tamiya kabuki tape is now preferred. A light coat of clear gloss will prevent paint seepage. Steve G., exquisite job on the Bonneville! I gotz to get away form the computer and back on the bench... Cheers, Doc

They just recently finished moving but their website seems functional. Try this: https://mcwfinishes.com/shop hth Doc

Yup, Scalemates may be a good indicator in most instances but it certainly shouldn't be accepted as gospel. I was looking up a Supermarine spitifire the other day and they had a totally different manufacturer's timeline posted. Wish i had the energy to fix that. The kit number for the 2014 edition of the 66 falcon was 5126. That certainly doesn't sound like a modern number does it? Stavanger's 69 stocker is #30142. Multiple searches turn up the original edition but nothing on a re-issue but I'll keep looking. Wouldn't mind having the 67 either. Tanks, Doc

Didn't find this posted on site so I guess I'll star a new thread. This is a Motor Trend page on classic box art and shoulda been re-issued kits: https://www.motortrend.com/features/classic-60s-model-car-box-art-part-2/ Several neat kits but the 66 Falcon begs a question. Article states mold was converted and yet Scalemates indicates it was re-issued around 2014. Anybody get one? i need one what with the peaked hood and sidedraft carbs. Cheers. Doc

I always enjoyed anything with retractable gear so these kits always worked for me. The LS kits have been supplanted by more accurate renditions but their Ki-67 still works. When Nichimo was getting into plastic models back in the sixties, they copied the Monogram kits of the era, hence the many working features. I was the only kid on the block who used spring clothespins and minimal glue to get those features to work. Ah, the heady days of dive bombing the (picnic table) carrier. Nichimo went on to do armor and other kits but their P-51 is always a good buy because, unlike the Monogram kit, it has retractable gear! https://www.scalemates.com/brands/nichimo--187 Hope that helps, Doc

Well, that's real dynamic looking. I've got the Too Much kit; anybody ever do Syndicate decals or maybe something else for this kit? Thanks, Doc