kitbash1

You found model kits at Value Village? Wow, I've been hitting that store plus Goodwill and the Sally Ann stores for a couple of years now and never seen any kits. I guess that I'll have to keep looking then as you proved it can happen.

Sweet looking model. My folks had a 74 Country Squire wagon. Metallic lime green, that thing was just a boat to drive. But it was the best car to take to the drive-in on Saturday night. Lot's of good memories of High School with that car.

" You will not be able to stay home. brother. You will not be able to plug in, turn on and cop out. You will not be able to lose yourself on skag and skip out for beer during commercials, because the revolution will not be televised. " Gill Scott-Haron

I'll miss Richie Havens, loved his music. He and Gill Scott-Haron were the coolest. Sadly both are gone now.

You can use Super Glue on plastic but I use Tenrex ( if you can find it ) or an other liquid glue to build with. I use super glue for resin kits and resin parts as well as photo-etch parts, as model glue won't work on resin or PE.

Dremal tool & bits Shop-vac ( for when sanding resin ) ​Air compressor ( for air brush ) Spray booth Micro chisels Boom Box

The Shaker Vette and the 63 Vette are both on ebay now.

I like using Tamiya paint's, both rattle cans and bottled. I'm also starting to use Floquil paint's as well for weathering and some detail work. But after getting Donn Yost's painting CD's, I'm starting to get back into Testors enamels.

​As someone who has been involved in racing for almost thirty years as a track side official, I can say with confidence that the cars that I've seen and been close to ARE clear coated. They have a shine to their finishes, but not that mile deep shine that you will see on show cars. Some cars are painted and some cars are covered by wraps, but each has a shine to the finish. But by the end of race they all look the same, very dull, oily and dirty.

Thanks for the link Jason. I can use your idea for the seat conversion as well as a few others from your build. I also like the way you smoothed out the moulded in carpeting. I'll be building mine as the #71 K&K Insurance Charger Daytona.

I just ordered the parts from Ron and the decals from Dave Van for this conversion. Looking at the kit parts, it looks like the roll cage will have to be scratch built as the kit one looks to be wrong for the body style. Also, the DOH kit is missing some of the shared parts from the Petty Charger such as the racing seat, the two small rads as well as a few other parts that I'm going to cast. I also ordered a set of H-M wheels to replace the kit ones. When everything shows up, I'll post pictures before I start the build.

I had a 76 TR6 & a 77 TR7. The TR6 was the best car out of the two, mainly because I replaced all of the Prince of Darkness relays, switches & fuse box with Bosch parts. Never had a electrical problem after that. I still kick myself for selling that car.

Ah yes, the old " we were just following the orders of Superior Officers " the most lamest excuse used though history, both in war and in business. This time it's robbed us of some very neat kits.

WTF !!!!!!

I know the feeling. I went into my LHS on Friday to just get some paint and my favorite modeling magazine, and I walked out with two of the new 1/16th Petty Chargers as well as the paints and magazine.

I go to the two model shows / swap meets in the Toronto area, Group 25's MegaCity show and the Exeter show and swap in Ajax. I find that you can get better deals on kits in the last 45 to 30 minutes of the day. No one wants to take home any more kits then they have to at closing. I find that Ebay is getting too expensive on shipping. So I try to stay away from buying kits from them, unless it's something that I really want bad. Such as the 1/12th Tamiya Lotus 49 kit that I'm looking for to finish off my 1/12th F1 collection. So my choice would be the swap meets for kits as well as my LHS for the newer releases.

If they have the moulds for these two kits, please release both of these. I don't care if they are fiddly to build.

This is what's on my desktop now. I change my desktop every 6 months or so.

Sorry to hear about his loss.

Slixx has a goodies sheet that has the LF, LR, RF, RR as decals. Or you can go the gel pen route and do it by hand, this would work for the stripes on the side-wall as well.

That's close to what I paid for my first house back in 1985 !

My wife say's that I'm playing with my toy's when I go down to my hobby room to build. So, no she has no interest in models.

Oh my god. Do they have no shame ?

I've thought long and hard about how I'd answer this thread, so here I go. 1) 1941 Willy's coupe. ( This would be my Sunday Drive in the country car. It would just be great to drive the backcountry roads in this car. And it would be totally stock. ) 2) 1968 Mustang Fastback ( My day to day after work driver. ) 3) 1976 AMC Gremlin. ( This would be my daily drive to work car. As long as I can have my Sirius Satillite radio. ) 4) 1970 Daytona Super Bird ( Painted Petty Blue, this I'd use as my Friday or Saturday night crusier. ) Last but not least, 5) 1973 Ford Pantera ( My hockey hero Tim Horton drove one ( he also died in his Pantera in a one car rollover accident driving back to Buffalo from a game in Toronto. This would be my second Friday or Saturday night crusier car. )

The truth is out there, the aliens took it.