rattle can man

Thanks for the input. Since I'm going '60's show car with a four cylinder with Riley conversion, not a driver, I don't think I have to worry about real world functionality. Some of those cars were not drivable anyway. I think it will be a chopped '32 shell with the custom inert from the '34 pick-up after playing around a bit last night.

Starting a new project and I would like some thoughts on a grille. I am mating the chopped model T coupe body from the double T kit to the fenders from an original Ala Kart. Then it is going on the model A frame with the hopped-up model A four from the Ala Kart/ model A double kit. likely a dropped front axel and banjo rear (although I do have a quick change center section as a possibility). I have model T, 29 Model A, '32 Ford grille (thinking tweedy pie type cut down), 29 pick-up track nose, or tractor grille (generic using the 55 Chevy pick-up fender trick). Maybe cobble something from left over 40 or 36 Ford kit front end parts? Your thoughts or other ideas are appreciated.

Remember that reversed wheels usually have a deeper offset. The center is cut form a factory wheel, turned 180 degrees in the opening and welded back together. The result is a deeper wheel, but less offset/ back spacing. The track may be wider and the brakes may be exposed a little mor as well.

Could also be fender mount mirrors.

I acquired a Revell Kustom Rolls/VW kit a while ago. finally took a closer look at the contents and found It is missing an entire sprue of parts that has the frame tunnel, the custom body parts, and a few other stock parts. It is kit number H-1322, dated 1973. Can I use any Revell VW for the stock parts, or was a new tool done at some point? The custom parts that are missing should be easy to fabricate. Thanks!

I have one of those human powered sweepers. Just a brush that goes around as you push it. Less muck to look through to find your part.

please delete. I found the parts.

looking for original issue Ala Kart front crossmember and tail lights. I have 400 kits and two shelves of parts, so what do you need?

Looking for a set of undamaged Johan Heavenly Hearse decals. I've got a stash of 400 kits and two shelves of parts. what do you need?

Fastbacks were common. Any one know of notchbacks, aside from the !990 LX drag racer?

One could always do what they did in the real world: scallops or some other design to cover the flaw so you don't have to worry about a color match!

has anyone tried the Testor's version? I have the two Countach set, minus the ball cap that came with it. I've thought of using it for a Cannonball build-a-thon. I've got the ambulance, stockcar and Countach kits from the movie series. were there any others?

I've started dropping a few bb's into the bottles to aid mixing when shaking. works like a charm.

there are sheets of stripes made for Model Railroading that might be useful if you want to try another option for decals. not sure how they would work for curved lines though

Z the frame in front (a diagonal slice through the frame, then glue the front section on top of the rear section)? Maybe a "clip"? AKA splice the front frame section from a donor kit?

for whatever reason the paint in the recesses is not softening. it's in a soak for the third time (this time for 24 hours). I have tried a toothbrush; all of the wood tools I've tried won't make a scratch. the metal tools work, but then I will likely have scratches. I suppose I could make a first attempt at weathering it and the scratches would be fine in a well used bed. I guess I will have to try some other stripper if it doesn't work this time. Maybe Castrol purple stuff.

As much bracing and inner panels as possible were trimmed away. Then a framework of tubing was made to support the sheet metal and tie it together. Then the whole unit was attached with hinges, quick fasteners, or whatever was available. at least that is what I've read in old magazines.

There was a Testors Pantera GTS, kit #382 from 1985. I'm not too sure how accurate it is.

That blob might seal the leak for a while, so I wouldn't remove it or g.ive up on the can try it and see what happens. I have successfully used three cans with that problem. But once you notice the blob you should use it before the leak gets worse.

Has anyone tried applying the powder to the paint while it is still tacky?

I don't recall building this kit. I have no answer on stabilizers, but instead of filing just one surface, can you remove some material from both parts? If the chassis is too low compared to the body, it is likely you need to remove material somewhere (likely that interior/ drive shaft tunnel area)

I have the kit somewhere in my stash. I will see if I can find it. you just want the suspension assembly, correct? it may take a day or so. Ihave enough kits to open my own shop.

Any suggestions on a tool to remove paint from the ribs of a pick-up bed? my paint job came out bad. I placed the parts in 90% isopropyl and it came off easy, except in the recessed area of the bed. Carving tools are too wide, dental pick are too small (and likely to leave scratches). sanding twigs are barely too wide. Thanks in advance.

I'm just finishing spraying several kits to see me through the next year. I do my spaying outdoors and away from windows, and of course wear a mask. It's too cold to paint in the winter and too hot in the summer. When it's 90 plus paint goes on with quite a bit of orange peel if you are not careful. And of course don't forget the humidity causing the paint to blush.

If you mix and match paints and coatings, you need to allow plenty of dry time between color and clear coats. The different solvents take different amounts of time to evaporate. Enamel takes much longer than lacquer to completely dry so you may need to wait 30 days or more before top coating enamel with lacquer. another thing to avoid reactions is just spraying very light coats and allowing time for the multiple coats to "flash" between coats. When in doubt. experiment on scraps.