johnyrotten

Here's how I lowered it. For the rear i removed the kit trailing arms and made a set of tubular arms,and hollowed out the pockets to the same depth,.080 rod for the arms. I also lowered the mounts for the rear assembly about the same, after drilling the locating hole deeper. I stopped when this part of the rear differential touched the chassis On the front, i originally goofed up just trying to "channel" the front assembly into the frame, so I moved the spindle mount up towards the upper control arm. Had I not made that mistake, it would probably be lower in the front, but I'm not looking for a "slammed" look. The final part was to remove about .040 from the bottom of the firewall and inner fender, that tucked the chassis up underneath so the frame isn't showing from the side.

Thanks to both of you. Gonna try and make this one stand out

Thanks to both of you,gonna try and make this one stand out. I'll post some pictures on how I lowered it. It was fairly straightforward. No real butchering of styrene.

I'm seriously 100% on the same page as you.

I seem to be spotting them everywhere

My old eye doctor billed my insurance even though I paid out of pocket, using up my benefits for the year. I now get to argue with them about that mess. Seriously, is it really that difficult to do your job correctly.

It seems to me it depends on what geographic region they were built in and what was on hand at the plant at that time. I've read that on multiple forums.

Sweet looking pickup i saw this morning, sounded good ,too

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/70-chevelle-under-body-finish.341414/ Here's something I found for the Chevelle I'm working on, seems the primer color varies from plant to plant. Has some good photos of the area's and spray patterns for that car.

Surprisingly my dogs pay no attention to the deer, she's been hanging on pretty well. No real predators around, I hear coy dogs from the farm down the road occasionally, the only thing I've ever seen up here was a fisher. Now those things are mean.

Seen this happen at work, our office staff has a few cheaper calipers. Andy's post above is spot on for the repair. Also check where it slides against for grime or any burrs, they don't exactly treat tools properly in the office at my job. Adjust those two screws a little at a time and check the "feel" of how it slides as you go. I was able to repair them without completely removing the screws, by the way.

Thinking outside the box, perhaps a o-ring of proper size . You would have to shape the profile of the tire and create the tread,of course. Just a thought. 3d print would most certainly be the better route.

That one is pure gold.

Some of the guys would have difficulty understanding the Kelvin scale, I dumbed it down to btu for them as a more familiar unit of measurement. Any adjustments, for them was given in "hotter"or "colder" "less"or "more" phrases. Or had had to come in after my shift and do it myself. I had to learn "idiot speak", unfortunately, at times in my career there. Most of those guys were hardly fit to work at jiffy lube, I had been trained by the manufacturer during the install. You obviously understand it, they couldn't.

Absolutely agree. anything else I chalk up to over-complication and corporate greed. No need for a 1500 dollar headlight, this isn't the space shuttle or a fighter jet.

Iceman collections has this for big block chevy, maybe with a bit of file work and styrene this could be made to work.

Living proof of "too dumb to change a light bulb". Put the tools down and slowly walk away. This quote alone makes me happy I no longer turn wrenches for a living.

I tend to speak in "layman's" terms, I'm not an expert nor would I claim that, btu makes it a bit easier, at least to me, to understand. I've had the "pleasure" of training more than a few "less bright individuals". Force of habit.

When she first showed up my wife called someone, they told her if it doesn't appear sick, or suffering that there's not much they will/can do. Kinda a run around answer. We see this one regularly with a few other's, and with all the feeders on my property she's hanging on. She doesn't run away when she spots us, more inquisitive than scared.

I've had vision problems all my life and by far the best headlights I've had on a vehicle were the bi-zenon in my volkswagen gli. They were auto leveling and had a very distinct "cut off", didn't blind anyone, factory equipment. Most of the "upgrades" some people do actually make the problem worse, wrong bulb for the type of housing/reflector and the temperature(btu) of the light. More isn't always better. Dont overlook all the now giant trucks with aftermarket everything, lifted, and running IMPROPERLY aimed lighting. As for new vehicles with factory portable sun's for lights, I think part of that is manufacturers going with the trends, and of course the profits for replacement. I'll stick with my cheaper, serviceable composite headlights. I used to work on optical sorting equipment, you learn a ton about light's color spectrum with those. Pretty neat systems.

Thanks Carl.

I've got them,pm me your info.

My youngest God-daughter graduated high school today, I could not be more proud of her.

Cool old stake body work truck. Nice work with the weathering and patina.

I'm sure I've got a set from the copperhead, I'll dig them out tonight.