58 Impala

I subscribed so I wouldn't have to wait for my LHS to get the latest issue. Now my LHS gets it in a week or two before me! The only advantage now is subscribing is cheaper than the LHS.

I just made my second purchase from Terry. Nice guy, he responded to my email quickly. I PayPaled him the next day, and he shipped my stuff.(he had what I was looking for in stock.) His stuff is good, I'll buy from him again.

Sponsored by: Table Top Cruisers Model Car Club of Central Florida Location: Melbourne Square Mall-Community Room (next to Dick's Sporting Goods) Directions: 1 1/2 miles east of I-95 (exit 180) on the north side of US 192. When: Saturday July 30, 9am-1pm Contest Registration,12pm-5pm Voting, Display Open. 5pm room closes, Judging and vote counting begins. Sunday July 31, 12pm-3pm Display open. Auction and Award ceremony. 3pm event closes. Registration Fees: $10 for the first 5 models, $1 for each additional model (no entry limit) $5 for Juniors (16 and under) Unlimited entries. $20 for Vendor tables (each) 7'x20' Diorama display table 19 Classes Viewers Choice (NNL):Factory Stock, Street Machines, ProStreet, Street Rod, Rat Rod, Custom, Import, Street Truck, Low/High Rider, Tuner, Commercial, Road Racing, Nascar, Drag Racing, Nostalgia Racing, Motorcycles, Large Scale, Small Scale, Youth. 2 Judged Classes: 1) Carmaggedon: any car or truck built in a "Mad Max" or "Death Race" style. Armor,Weapons,Etc. 2) British Invasion: Build any British car race or street. Call for Contest Info: 321-768-7945 Hope to see you there.

I just use a simple spreadsheet and divide it into general categories. (Street Rods,Muscle Cars,Exotics,Classics,F1,Drag Racing,Nascar, etc) I list them with manufacturer,scale,Qty of each. I then total each category,and then grand total at the bottom. I also highlight built and in progress kits.

I bought a two piston, tankless, oilless compressor from Bear Air (their brand/Polar bear 2000). It turns on when you pull the trigger on your airbrush,it is small (will sit on a tabletop and is very quiet. I paid less than $200, I think around $160.

I have bent aluminum tubing by putting a short piece of solid aluminum rod or solder (if you can find the exact diameter) where the bend needs to be. No breakage or collapsing.

I tend to be my own worst critic,I have been building models for around 47 years but I never rebuke any tips or constructive criticism. There are some tremendous builders out there, but no matter how good someone is there is always someone a little better. Rob you mentioned people should try and build box stock as clean as possible. As a matter of fact I was a judge at a local IPMS show last year (automotive class) and one of the nicest cleanest builds on the table was a Revell 48 Ford Woody Wagon and it had no aftermarket details at all. I was extremely impressed.

Bought mine yesterday, nice tool, well balanced. I've had good luck with all my Dremel tools. Hopefully this one will be no different.

Nice hobby room. Nice stash, you wouldn't happen to like Mopars would you?

where can you find this product? I'd like to give it a try.

What's the difference between the 1100-01 and 1100-N/25? From what I've researched, the difference seems to be the accessories (bits and cutters).

Thanks for the input, I think I'll pick one up this week.

I was thinking of buying The Dremel Stylus cordless tool. Do any of you on MCM forum have one? Do you like it? Is it worth the money? I have a Dremel regular corded variable speed as well as the old chargable battery version. Any opinions would be welcome. Thanks.

I bought a tankless,oilless compressor from Bear air, it is they're own brand. It's is built from components of the top brands. It is quiet and only runs when you trigger your airbrush. I have a Paasche H , Badger 200, an Aztec 709, and a Harbor Freight. They all work well on this compressor, just make sure whatever you buy you get a moisture trap. Nothing is worse than water in your paint except maybe dust, or a bug or cat hair or... you get the idea.

Another big F1 and Indy car fan here. Very nice job, great detailing. I have a 1/12 Tamiya kit of the same car- still unbuilt. I have around a dozen F1 kits, mostly Schumacher kits.

-Bugatti Veyron -V12 Jaguar XKE (a new tooling) -DeTomaso Pantera (well it's 1/2 an import)

Thanks again Matt, I appreciate the help. I was looking at the wheels your right they are hard , stainless I think. The Protech valve stems are easier to use. I'll save the HD stems for some plastic wheels. By the way, did those Avon tires come with your Ferrari kit? I have the Revell 250 GTO and the kit tires look like 4x4 mud tires.

Thanks for the reply Matt. So you're saying to just layer them all flat and staggered even the 5th set of spokes in the back? You're wheels look great. I asked this question on another forum and the answer and opinion of these wheels was discouraging. These wheels and photo etch seem to be of high quality, they even include machined valve stems. I haven't decided what kit I'm going to use them yet.

42 out of 48, not too bad. Those weird Kaisers and Hudsons kind of meesed me up.

I just bought a set of Hobby Design wire wheels 1/24 for the Ferrari TR250. The assembly instructions are rather simple and vague. They weren't cheap, is anyone familiar with assembling them? What I'm wanting to know is, are the spokes supposed to be formed in a conical shape? The instructions show them installed flat. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated,Thanks.

Dr Cranky, I just apply the embossing powder the same way you do with regular flocking. It just looks much more realistic and is more forgiving when trying to fill in the occasional bare spot.

The New Phone Book's Here! The New Phone Book's Here! Sorry... my January issue finally came today, I feel better now.

By using the term "Slightly behind", I was being kind and sarcastic the same time.

I know things can be slow and slightly behind, but my LHS has had the Jan issue for 2 weeks. WHERE'S MINE?! The reason I subscribed is to save money, not have to chase down an issue, and also to hopefully get my issue before my LHS. Sorry I had to vent, are any of you out there still waiting for yours?

Thanks Roadhawg, the conversion chart is what I was looking for. The second one is also helpful that is the federal standard for colors.