roadhawg

Wow....those stripes really made it! Looking forward to more.

What you have done so far is really looking good, and we really don't see enough of these early Mustangs, but I must question your decision to not correct the upside down valve covers. Incorrectly assembled parts as obvious as this will take your model from a scale replica to a toy quicker than anything. I suggest stopping where you are at and fixing the problem before continuing. You are doing too much other quality work to have it ruined by something so simple. Just a suggestion.

I don't know for sure, but I would guess that the slicks from a 1/20 scale Formula 1 kit might be close?

This is one of those times that the best way to be cheap is to spend a little money. In this case, save your pennies and purchase one of these... http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_145&products_id=1870 You will then be able to create a lifetime supply of perfectly shaped miniature bolt heads as long as you have something to punch them out of....scrap plastic, soda cans, even cardstock. It doesn't take long to save 50 bucks......thats less than 2 bucks a day for a month.

The ones directly under the transmission tailshaft are bolt holes........on the real one, there's bolts in there that fasten to the transmission mount.

Not a musician, but movie producer Peter Jackson (Lord Of The Rings) enjoys model airplanes so much he started his own company...Wingnut Wings. Some of the nicest kits of any kind you'll ever see.

In the '90s movie "Mr. Destiny", Jim Belushi's character is a model car builder, and it sorta plays into the storyline.

See if this helps............ http://www.modelcars...showtopic=12248

Yep, what George said. Also, If you don't mind the rotor/caliper molded together, Pegasus has several different styles. As far as just the calipers, MCG has some cast in metal, and if you want a more of a racing type caliper, Dirt Modeler has a beautiful photoetch set.

Well, I had a couple of requests for more pictures of this, so here they are. This is an older build, I think it was '93 or '94. By the mid 80's, dirt track cars had pretty much stopped resembling their street counterparts. While this particular car would've been called a Camaro, the bodies were hand fabricated from sheet metal and the roofs were fiberglass. The tube type chassis were built on a jig, and most were coilover suspension with a torque arm connected to the rear end attached to a "5th" coilover. This model represents such a car. The chassis is a modified unit from a Revell ASA kit. The front clip was replaced with parts from an AMT Nascar Thunderbird. I scratchbuilt the coilover shocks and the torque arm. The hubs are from the ASA kit, while the wheels are homemade. The engine is a small block Chevy. Most cars hadn't made the switch to dry sump oil systems yet. The Schoenfeld "weedburner" headers are modified parts box pieces. I added wiring and linkages. The body is made pretty much just like the real ones....from hand formed sheet brass, using the roof from the ASA Camaro body. The interior "tin" is various pieces of Evergreen styrene. While the paint scheme was based on a real car that was running at Lanier Speedway at the time (it was still dirt back then), this represents a fictional car. Lettering is a combination of different decals and hand lettering. Thats about all I remember, but if you have any questions, just ask. Hope y'all like it, and thanks for asking about it. More pics..........

I'll add one thats a little different. This car ran a few years back in the Illinois area as a vintage dirt car. I can't remember the driver's name, but needless to say, he got "most popular car" at almost every race he entered. Hudson body, jig frame, small block Chevy.

I'm saying that based on the sponsors in the picture......

Looks awesome, but my guess is that the front door panels on that car were cut out so the door bars could be extended out as far as possible....looks like a 70s era Dixie Speedway Hobby class car. Leave the panels in the back though.

Thank you, and yes, the body is brass sheet cut and bent just like the real bodies, with the roof cut from the ASA Camaro. Grafting the Nascar clip on the ASA chassis isn't that difficult, just remember to use the steering rack from the ASA kit, not the Nascar steering box. Like I said, I built this one several years ago, but I think I also stretched the wheelbase about 1/2 inch or so, I can't remember for sure. You want it to scale out to 105"-108", which is what they were running back then.

Drew, most of the dirt cars I build were from the 70s, and they were still using tri-five Chevy chassis. By the 80's, they were all pretty much coilover jig built chassis, so the Revell ASA kits are going to be the closest you can get, although I think the wheelbase on those kits is a little short.....just my personal opinion, I've never actually measured it. I built this one several years ago by grafting an AMT Nascar front clip onto one of the ASA chassis, and it worked out ok. The wide-five hubs in the ASA kit are good, but the wheels are wrong for an 80's dirt car. You'll need to get some wheels from either Fred or Big Donkey.(http://www.bigdonkey....com/index.html) And while I've never tried it, and it would take a little work, I've always thought the chassis from the Revell Trans Am cars looked very "dirt trackish"...... Whatever you come up with, please share.....maybe we can all learn something!

I think Dave's suggestion is the closest, although the modified kits are big blocks and the carburetor sits at an angle. I could probably rework the flange for a small block so it's straight. I was thinking that those 55 Chevy pickups had a regular dual plane high rise, but I could be wrong (I'm not at home to check my stash...I got two or three of those...). And Kris, I checked your site first....yours appears to be the Victor Jr., which is the "X" type but has curved runners. As many of these things that were around back in the 70s, you'd think there would be a few of them in 1/25 scale, but apparently not! I know I had a Tarantula on my race car and a Torker on my street car. I'm trying to gather up stuff to build my race car, and that intake is pretty noticeable. Thanks again, guys.

Ok, thanks Y'all....I'll check 'em out.

A true masterpiece.....especially considering what you started with. You scratchbuild that A/C compressor or is that from a kit? Looks real.

Looking for the expertise of the members here in finding sources for a 70s Edelbrock Tarantula/Torker for a SBC, like the one in the picture...... I have a few in 1/24 scale, from early Nascar kits I believe, but they are too big to look right in 1/25 scale...yes, I've tried. I've scrounged through several kits, but all I've turned up are later style, with the sorta curved runners. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Use artists watercolors...the ones that come in those little tubes. Paint the panel lines....no need to worry about being careful...and when dry wipe off the excess with a damp cloth. For lighter colored paints, a dark gray panel line looks much better than straight black.

Ok, thanks everybody. Good suggestions. I'm trying to find some from a kit, but those scratchbuilt ones up there look mighty fine....might have to go that route. And Robert, yes, I've seen that '55......I think it was a 4 door and somebody took a section out of it to make it a two door. The kids think it looks like a Shriner car.

I'm planning a '55 Chevy build that will be a small block street car but has fenderwell headers, similar to these......http://waywardgarage.com/FriendsRides/Kyles55/primerprogress/kyles55_5.JPG Do any kits contain anything like this, or will I be forced to make them?

Looks even better than I expected, Lee! Excellent job, very cool idea!

If you have a Tractor Supply store nearby, they carry spray cans of Caterpillar yellow.

Very cool! You really captured the right look. As far as class, in the 70's, that would've been a "late model". In the 80's, it would have been "Hobby" or "Limited". Today, it would be "Vintage".