Bainford

Thanks for the correction, Mark. Until recently I thought the twin engine option debuted with the '78 kit. Just a couple months ago a saw an early 70s Dodge van glue bomb on ebay with the twin engines, and wondered what years they were issued.

Cool project. I love the Pinto. My first car was a Pinto, and I have gathered up the stuff needed to build a model of it. I need to get to that someday. I'll definitely be watching your build. Nice looking Pinto.

Thanks for posting the 71/72 bodies. I have a couple '74 kits, one with the tail light on the right.

Nice work, Mario. What great looking rust. Very authentic. It gives the Mini so much personality. It has some stories to tell. Great work!

Good looking Lotus.

I've had a couple of the MPC '78 Dodge van kits with the twin engine drag version that also came with this tire. I'm guessing any earlier Dodge van kits with the twin engine version had them as well.

That is super cool. Very nice work on that little critter. That's one of the coolest models I've seen. And, being a stickler for detail, I see you've wired the engines in the correct firing order. Well done!

Hobby saws are available in both 'push' and 'pull' configurations, referring to the stroke on which they are designed do their cutting. Though 'push' is most common, I usually look for a 'pull' blade. For years, before I knew both types were available, I always used the 'push' blade in the 'pull' direction in the mitre box, as Tom mentioned above. Regardless of which type of blade you have, you will likely find better control if used in the pull direction. Even a 'push' blade will cut/wear through plastic and soft metals when pulled, and sometimes with better control than using the proper 'pull' blade. I also find that a 46 TPI blade (Teeth Per Inch) or finer is preferable for model work.

Well done! A troublesome kit for sure, but I bet none of them have been so well built.

Thanks David. The wheels are indeed kit wheels, with a little Tamiya panel wash slathered on. Cheers.

Cheers, Tom. If you have any questions on the bezels, just give a holler. The tutorial makes it look complicated, but once you get into it, it's really pretty simple. Expect to throw away the first couple, but you will quickly get the hang of it.

Thanks very much guys, for all of the kind comments. I really appreciate the good feedback. Cheers!

Wow! That sucks. It's going to be a bit of work to sort that out. Is it right in the plastic, or just a reaction between the primer and paint?

Gorgeous Oldsmobile. Great stance. Very nice build.

That truck looks like it means business. Cool take on the old Chevy. Looks neat with the nose-up stance. Nice work.

Good looking Land Rover. The weathering is well done, and really brings it to life. Well done.

I do like it! Nice work. I always enjoy seeing the Mercury variant.

Excellent work, Glen. The look is perfect, and your detailing work is very clean. Very cool model. Outstanding!

That's looking great. The SIIA grill is spot on. Very nice work on the accessories in the back.

Very cool '57. You nailed the period street vibe. That side profile pic is dead-on period cool. Well done, and nice resto of an old build.

That's a wicked looking Mustang. The red guts look great with the black paint. Very cool indeed!

Sharp Chevelle. Very tidy. Nicely done.

Thanks, Bob. Much appreciated. I've been following your GT build. It's coming along beautifully. I have one of GT bodies myself and looking forward to getting at it someday. Cheers.

Thanks a lot for the kind comments, guys. I really do appreciate it. Cheers.

Cheers Bill. Yes, from the days when sporting driving was done in simple machines. It's still my preference. I appreciate the comments on the interior. For most of my building life I pretty much ignored interiors in favour of the more interesting things like engines and chassis. Somehow I've made a switch, and the last few years my builds have been curbside with all the work in the interior. There is no build thread for this one. The seat piping was quite easy, actually. Evergreen .010" and some Tamiya extra thin. Any existing piping or raised edge is sanded off first. It went better than expected, fix a piece at one end with a little extra-thin and let it set, then work your way from there. The plastic strip softens quite a bit on contact with the glue, helping it to conform to corners without resistance. After applying, allow to set then use a sanding stick to thin it a little and smooth out any rough bits. Once painted and dried, scrape the paint from the piping. The problem with this method is it can only be done in white, or at least I haven't seen any suitable styrene in other colours. The .010" is a bit heavy for seat piping, especially in a small car, and indeed it is a bit 'in your face', but overall it has a nice look. Unfortunately a bit of rough handling pulled away the piping from the top corner of the passenger seat. I couldn't fix it without making a visible mess, but then I thought, "Piping torn away from the top corner of the seat, how authentic is that?"