Bainford

You did a very fine job on this pumper. It was fun watching this project come together. The end result looks great. Very nicely done.

Yup, you nailed it! Very nice work.

I love what you did with the Deuce. Very cool look, and you nailed the mid-60s vibe. Well done.

Stunning build, Paul. Cool to see two exceptional builds of the same car/livery on the forum at the same time. A simply lovely Ferrari. Excellent work.

Stellar build, Chris. Exceptionally clean & tidy. Beautiful decal work.

Cool build, pat. One of my favourite sports cars. The three of them look great together. Nicely done.

Just finding this one now. Stellar innovation, Claude. I think this may be my favourite of your builds yet. Simply outstanding.

Nice build of a very cool car. Looking great.

Agreed. That body shell looks fantastic.

Cool project! Very nice work, too. I like where this is going. Nice 1:1 ride. Looks mean in black.

Nice work. The headliner sheet metal looks great, and considerably less glue-bomby than the original build.

Man, that's looking good!

Looking good, Jason. I'll be watching this one come together. I also have the Academy 250 Spider, though I'm more of a coupe guy. I didn't realise until this thread that the Academy Ferraris were from actual Italeri tooling. I always assumed it was copied or reverse engineered tooling. Oh, and I snagged the photo of Bandit for my collection of photos of 'cats on model benches'.

Personally, I have not known green or blue plastic dyes to bleed. Red, orange, yellow seem to be the real trouble makers. As others suggest, prime with a quality primer and you should be good to go.

It takes a bit of ingenuity sometimes. Polishing pads can be cut into shapes that reach better into corners and grooves, etc. Sometimes I glue pieces of polishing pads onto small sticks or coffee stirrers to get into tight spaces. Carve the stick to a point or special shape if needed. If the edge of a polishing pad develops a ragged edge, cut a new clean edge. When polishing with creams or sanding films, the polishing cloth or sanding film can be wrapped around a skewer or knife handle, or whatever works. It's an opportunity to get creative and think-out the problem.

True that. I don't mind stripping paint and starting over, but I hate it when there is body work involved. I haven't yet used epoxy putty yet, though I have recently bought some from Tamiya. Are the epoxy puttys not bothered by paint stripper? I suppose it depends it all depends on the type of stripper.

Thanks for this. I was often curious about the Ertl Scout offerings, and often keep an eye out for the 77/78 Scout II.

I wouldn't chance it, especially if some members have found it to be too hot for enamel. Besides, you can't be sure enamel has completely cured if it's only been a week. I wait at least a month for enamels to fully cure, much of that time spent in the dehydrator. Personally, I play it safe when working with enamels. Enamel clears have a tendency to yellow over time, and sometimes come out of the bottle with a yellow tint. You can't use lacquer, so I resort to acrylic clears for enamel, usually Tamiya. It's safe for everything.

My most wanted...

Tamiya has lacquer in bottles.

Great looking Mustang! Back in the day, I thought these were just about the most wicked looking racers out there. You nailed the vibe. Very cool.

Nice work. Good looking F1 machine. I really need to tackle one of these Heller F1 kits.

Nice work. Looks wicked.

Sharp looking Cougar. Nice and tidy.

Good looking Chevy, Tom. Another fine build from your bench. Nice work.