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Bainford

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Everything posted by Bainford

  1. Lovely work. Things are looking great.
  2. Cool! With a pair of 4-bubbles it will get you to the gates on time. I have never seen this kit before. Does it include parts for a stock ambulance?
  3. Nice work! The Maverick is looking sharp.
  4. Nice! It has the right 'all business' look.
  5. Good looking dash, Justin. Did the gauge decals come with the kit, or are they Studio 27 also?
  6. BMF comes in several 'colours' or 'tones', the main ones being (New Improved) Chrome, Ultra Bright Chrome, and Aluminum. The one everyone uses for chrome trim on models is (New Improved) Chrome. It is the best by far for foiling vehicle trim. The Ultra Bright Chrome, despite the name, is to be avoided for general vehicle trim as it is thicker and more difficult to use, and doesn't look as good. The BMF Aluminum foil is for replicating duller trim, but is also thicker then New Improved Chrome and should only be used where the duller look of aluminum is needed. For most vehicle trim (window trim, side spears, etc) the regular (New Improved) Chrome is plenty bright, and in fact is really too bright for many applications. BMF Chrome wont be as shiny as real 1:1 chrome, but then again, it shouldn't be. If yours is too dull, check to be sure your package is marked 'Chrome' or 'New Improved Chrome'. If the package is marked 'Aluminum', then you have the wrong stuff. If you have BMF Chrome and it is dull, it may be your burnishing technique. How do you burnish down the BMF after you apply it? When properly applied, it should retain a pleasing chrome effect. Chrome markers (Molotow, etc) are not as shiny as real chrome, but they can be pretty close. There are many pros & cons to using a chrome marker or chrome paint/ink, and much as been written about it on this forum, so I won't get into that here. Do a forum search for 'Molotow' or 'Chrome pens' to learn more about those products.
  7. I've used Future as well with good results. It was the perfect thing for the ridiculously delicate PE lattice on the tail light of the Revell 70 Torino.
  8. Awesome! You nailed it. That thing has a serious Baha vibe going on. Everything looks 'right'. Love that tire/wheel combo, and the weathering really makes the presentation.
  9. The Ford Louisville was introduced in 1970. According to scalemates, the kit was first issued in 1971, so that should set the year. There was very little change in these trucks during the 70s. I am not an expert on these things, especially the Caterpillar engine family, which always confuses me, but I believe the engine in the kit is a Cat v175. It certainly looks like one, with those funky shaped valve covers. I'm sure one of the truck gurus will chime in with more solid info.
  10. Welcome to the forum, Bruce. Sweet ride, nice clean style. Lots of good builders here willing to help with any model building issues you are experiencing. Cheers.
  11. Welcome aboard, Rick. Enjoy the forum.
  12. Welcome to the forum, Francois. Nice work on the Jag. You're going to fit in well. Cheers.
  13. Welcome to our little sandbox, Jimmy.
  14. That’s pretty cool. Nice effect.
  15. Cheers John, good info. This particular body is sprayed with Tamiya LP-9 lacquer clear from the bottle. First time using it. It seems robust during cutting, and the decals are completely unaffected by it. Well done surviving cancer, and I share your views on 2K paint. A nasty and unnecessary risk. I am not a whiskey drinker, but I have no doubt it's an inspired choice as well.
  16. I certainly would. However, I am not buying any kit whose emblems, scripts, and badges are represented with water-slide decals. I see no point in pouring heart & soul into the finish of a build that, no matter well you do, will never look authentic with cheesy decals for badges.
  17. Beautiful Jag, Bruce. You captured the elegance of the 1:1 nicely.
  18. Well done, John. I never would have thought of that solution. However, I am more interested in the decal damaging experience in the first place. I am currently working on a model that is painted, decaled (a difficult job), cleared, and now being cut & polished. Once I'm done that, I have some masking to do to paint window trims and am quite nervous of damaging the decals. I will try to avoid taping over the decals as best I can, but it may not be possible. I've been hoping the clear will save me from damage, but your post may serve as a warning. Just out of curiosity, what clear did you use.
  19. I don't know if I have any answers, but I am curious why you waited a day for the decals to dry before applying decal solvent. Is that your normal process? That part seems unusual to me, and may be the problem. I use decal solvent during the decal application process so that any positioning, softening, and settling is done in one process, then everything is set aside to dry in its permanent place. It would seem to me that once the decal was positioned & dry and the adhesive set, any further attempt to do anything with it such as applying a decal sol would only disturb the decal adhesive. Just my thoughts...
  20. Very interesting indeed. My primary concerns, which are not addressed in the OPs link; - Does it shrink? - Does it react with lacquer thinner/other thinners (including shrinking or swelling)? - Is it stable over time? - How well does it sand? I am interested to hear from others who have used this stuff.
  21. If I need a nice, clean hole, I usually drill a smaller hole and use a file to finish.
  22. Pinzgauer! A ridiculously capable machine, available in military and civilian versions. In 1:1, this would be my ideal camper. I would love to build it in 1/24.
  23. Beautiful Coupe de Ville. Your build shows off the elegance of the 1:1 nicely. Very well done.
  24. Yes! My favourite Jag. Very lovely work. The paint is just beautiful. Top notch work. I love it!
  25. Yes, an excellent and inexpensive solution. I have a selection of brass tube punches I've made, some sharpened on the outside and some sharpened on the inside, depending on whether I want the hole or the disc. If I want the disc, I use a punch sharpened on the outside to avoid distortion of the disc during the punch operation. Having said that, the Dspiae tool posted above is quite intriguing.
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