Bainford

Welcome to the forum, Michal. Good to have you aboard.

Nice work on a classic kit. It has a cool vintage modified vibe. Well done.

Cool build of a great little racer. Nice work.

Cool! I'm watching.

That looks promising, keep us posted.

No website per se, just a Fotki account Public Home | mofobow@hotmail.com | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy.

Well Peter, by virtue your own statement, it can be concluded that it is all paint. That someone may choose to call it ink is irrelevant. However, when Molotow came out and many modelers were getting wrapped around the axel over the term 'ink' (the inference being that it is specifically NOT paint), I did some research. Like you I found much ambiguity, but I kept digging until I found the information I sought. I didn't bother to commit the specifics of the definitions to memory; I didn't need to. I only wanted the answer. If your curiosity runs deep enough, you can do the digging yourself. But, it doesn't matter how you slice it, or what definitions you chose to use, Molotow is very definitely an alcohol based acrylic paint. Take away that voodoo thing it does, and it is like many other acrylics used in the hobby. Tripping over the term 'ink' is pointless as it is simply a common marketing strategy, and has very little to do the with make-up of the product. Very many products in our lives employ similar deceptive marketing strategies, but; Future is not a polish, Dove is soap, SUVs are cars, etc. Silk screening 'ink' is also paint. Artists water colours, on the other hand, are actually inks, not paint. At the end of the day, it doesn't matter what you call it. You can call it ink, or paint, or shaving cream, or spaghetti sauce. The product doesn't know or care what you call it. Every type of paint and every brand paint is unique and has specific requirements on how to handle it. Molotow, or any of the chrome paints, are no different. Using the term 'ink' is a red herring, and by virtue of its constituents, (for those who care) is technically incorrect. But there are a number of ways to define some things. Many definitions revolve around the use of the product; If you paint with it, it's paint. If you write/draw with it, it's ink. Even by this definition, for our purposes, it's paint.

Stunning build of the old Monogram kit. The paint work is lovely, accentuating those such gorgeous body lines. such a beautiful, cleanly built model. Excellent work. I have one of these on the bench as a stalled project that I hope to get back to this year. It is a surprisingly good kit, with the exception of the bonnet fit, which on mine was terrible. I got so tired of trying to make it fit, that I eventually glued it shut, and will display the engine alongside on a stand. The overall effect of your build, and the way the paint shows of the sexy lines, is what I am shooting for. If it turns out half as good as yours, I'll be happy.

Nice little Mustang. Looks good in yellow.

Love it! You have really done a fantastic job on this. I'm very impressed that you went to the trouble to make this project 'full detail'. Cool the way you individualised various bits. Overall an awesome build. One of the coolest models I've seen yet.

Cool Buick. That's one of those cars for which I am surprised there has been no decent 1/25 scale kit available. I have been trying to identify my first model car for decades, but have yet to find one like it. There are some identifying features that I remember, particularly the wheels. It was 1971 and I was five years old. It was a 1/32 scale snap-together kit, molded in robins-egg blue, and I think it was a 60s T-Bird. The un-chromed wheels were a smooth disc with a single raised line bisecting the wheel. Sometime afterwards I saw a different model built by a friend, molded in white, with the same wheels, which leads me to believe the models were part of a series that all had the same generic wheels. Still looking.

I don't think any of them are actually ink. Molotow is promoted as an ink, but it is really an alcohol based acrylic paint. The ink moniker is just marketing fluff. I don't think any of the competing products call their stuff 'ink'. It's all paint of various make-up.

Coming along nicely, good to see it back on the bench. Sounds like you have some of the junk BMF from a couple years ago. The problem with the adhesive has been resolved, so new stuff will work much better.

I'm pretty sure one of the factors here is not enough time permitted for the black to cure. However, the problem is not solvents of the overcoat reacting with the tape adhesive. The problem is more insidious than that. I have had this same problem occur on two occasions. Both times, the paint was cured for months, both times it was lacquer paint (once Duplicolor, and once Tamiya), both times it was Tamiya tape only, and both times no paint was applied over the tape. The tape was used for a purpose other than masking paint, such as protecting painted surfaces during final assembly (how ironic). My problem was the tape was left on too long, probably a couple weeks or so. The result was exactly as shown in your photo. A heavy alligator skin texture with no transfer of adhesive to the paint. The only way forward is sanding out the texture, and if necessary, repainting. I was quite disappointed to find Tamiya tape had this reaction, especially to Tamiya's own lacquer paint, but there it is. To stay on the safe side, be sure paint is FULLY cured (time is your friend) and remove any tape as soon as possible (time is your enemy). In your case the tape was not on too long, but the result is the same. I am intrigued, though, but the vinyl tape David shows above. Some experimenting is in order.

Cheers Bruce. Much better. Thanks for the explanation. Very interesting subject matter here, and the large display engine is a really cool touch..

Congrats on the new shop, Chris. Very nice space. Loving the windows.

Nice work, Bill. An excellent job of one of the most important cars in door slammer drag racing history. I am very glad to see this model built, and such great effort to replicate its unique features in detail. I've been wanting to build a model of this car ever since I first saw it in a magazine in the 80s. On a couple of occasions over the years, I had done a search for a decent starting point, but came up empty. Now that you have done such a great job on it, I don't have to. Thanks for removing one more project from my overcrowded project list. You have really done this drag racing icon justice.

Good looking funny car. Nicely done.

Very cool Maverick, Bob. I think this is the first time I've seen the AMT boxing of the JoHan Maverick. Lovely work on this one. Great finishes and a cool look.

A stunning build, Wayne. Nice finish, and the decals look great.

Very interesting and unexpected subject. Things look quite good so far, though I must say I am disappointed to see the bonnet chrome script represented with a tampo printed (or whatever) solution. Using decals or tampo printing of body script fails completely in 1/25, and I would think is most inexcusable in 1/8. Nonetheless, very cool subject, and I'm looking forward to watching it come together.

Cool project, David. I remember buying this kit in the early 80s, branded as a Revell kit then, and being sorely disappointed when I opened the box. Low parts count, almost no engine or chassis detail, and on the Revell release, no chrome (just a parts tree molded in grey). I had a custom build in mind, but the very thick plastic was a further turn-off. I slapped it together OOB one weekend and it sat unloved on my shelf until a friend saw it and fell in love with it, so I gave it to him. Many years later, armed with improved skills & tools, and with that custom project still in my mind, I purchased a Minicraft version (with chrome plated parts) on ebay. It's waiting in the stash for its turn at the bench. In the meantime, I'll watch yours come together. Cheers.

Welcome to the forum, Hanjo. You have displayed some beautiful Alfas. Enjoy the forum.

Fantastic! Lovely work, great colours. Very well done.

There are a number of clear coats that will work, depending on how 'dull' you want your chrome. For a cast-aluminum, aluminum plate. or frosted look, try a flat clear. Semi-gloss clear can make chrome look much like machined or finished aluminum. Great for wheels and valve covers, etc. If you are just looking to just take a little of the edge off the shine, my favourite is Alclad Sheen clearcoat. It knocks back the brilliance of chrome, and gives it the appearance of nickel or stainless steel trim or polished aluminum, etc.