horsepower

Just a thought, but if you black out the radio, you don't need the distributor cover, they were not installed on radio delete cars. But then you would have to put in a distributor.

Is it just a California deal, or is the rest of the country having problems getting any of the Tamiya primers? I've tried several different shops in the northern half of out fair state, & they all say they are on backorder from any & all of their suppliers. Anything different or definite out their? thanks, Del

I have found with a little (read that a lot) of careful sanding & patience this piece can be made indistinguishable from the Revell part, but you must install the part before starting to shape it. This results in a tedious job of installing the chassis when doing final assembly, but it really isn't that bad but the results are worth it.

'Tis Friday, where's Harry?

Before anyone else has problems with the "stickers" there is a little trick that I learned while working in a sign shop, lightly spray a mixture of dish soap & water (just a few drops of the soap, just enough to help break the surface tension) on the body before placing the stickers, this will allow you to shift them if needed, then carefully with a dry cloth while holding one end of the sticker wipe or blot the excess water mixture away. After these finish drying, they will appear to be almost painted on, this allows you to also get any air bubbles out from beneath them, as this is a real problem with stickers.

I believe these kits will be the replacement for the old NASCAR kits, they can be built in many variants with just a switch of sponsors & color schemes, & until those of us that love old dirt track cars get tired of building the same kit over & over again they will continue to sell well. Just a thought, but with the current costs of kits, & no relief in sight now would be a great time for Revell to look at the "Parts Packs" program again, there are many of us that just can't afford to purchase a complete kit just to get the extra goodies, or that special set of wheels & tires, or engine, just my thought, how about it guys, think it would work?

The local "action figure" customizers use acrylics on their vinyl figures, & it seems to stick pretty well, I,ve had good luck using a flat acrylic as a primer, then using "whatever" over that for a final finish with no problems,,,,yet.

probably to late now, but many of these little T's in the 1:1 world had the battery mounted under the seat area.

It appears to actually be the Monogram release of the '57 'Vette/

You are doing a real nice job on this one, & I wouldn't worry about the transmission, the real ones have a very pronounced mold line on both the main case, & the tailshaft housing, so what you have is actually pretty correct.

The mirrors you're looking for are the "Rally" option, the closest I've found lately are in the MPC re-release of the '86 El Camino from Round2

Originally, they were truck arms, but the ones they use now are fabbed up from rectangular tubing that is cut lengthwise, & welded back together with the pieces forming an I-beam instead of a rectangle, & they don't use a bushing in front, most have a solid mono ball type deal on an eccentric so that arm lengths & angles can be easily adjusted.

I'm goin' to mess up the others, 'cause I'm gonna' vote real on this one.

between the gearbox whine & what sounds like either a leaky exhaust, or some really severe detonation, this thing could probably wake up Winston Churchill. The neighbors must just really love this guy.

In "real" life, many of these cars were carried to the race track in the back of a pick-up, not on a trailer. The first team I worked on carried the car & tires etc. in the back of a long bed '58 Chevy pick-up, & they were one of the top runners in the BCRA midgets at the time. (early sixties). And the top guy in points at that time was running a V-8 60, Hank Butcher, I have pics of him at Shasta Speedway in a "Super Modified" in the '60-'61 season at the age of 13, it was the first car I saw with an on board fire system, they plumbed copper line from an ordinary extinguisher to the engine compartment because the old Stromberg 97s were so bad about leaking they were always catching on fire.

Really!!I can see that little V-8 "quickie" in several builds, along with those track noses, & while we're asking, PLEASE make a set of those tires in 1/24 scale 15" so we can update the Edmunds Super Modified kit to a nice dirt (read that "real") race car.

Really nice cars, I especially like the '48, it's the "right" color.

Makes me want to take one of mine down & actually build it. You did a good job, & never be apprehensive about posting, if I actually finish up one of the umpteen projects I have scattered about the house/garage/bedroom/workshop/kitchen,,,well you get the idea, (oops, the wife did too, gotta move something).

When I was but a young lad, there was a gentleman just down the street that restored these for a hobby, I can say that your model is dead on, I can remember going down every evening to see what he was doing that day. The size of these babies in person was really impressive, I can just imagine how much space yours takes up being in 1/16 scale. Keep up the great work!

I am probably one of a very few to think model, & it will turn out to be just one of Harry's photo shop tricks, but the background looks kinda hinky where the wall meets the floor.

Welllll, the pic at least explains the reason I picked real, I didn't know of a supplier that made the Carlisle tread pattern in a scale tire, now it's clear they are small motorcycle tires.

I can see some possibilities with the'48, but those funky "Bailon" style flowing fenders didn't do anything for me in the '60s, & they still don't cut it now. But the Mustang, that is a must have, just wish they ( Revell) would bring back the parts packs, there are a few different engines & wheels combos I'd like to buy without forking out $20 bucks plus for a kit that will just take up space.

What do you mean IF the sun comes out? Doesn't the sun always shine in southern CA.?

Having worked in an upholstery shop that replaced quite a few of these tops, due to the width of the material that was available the tops that were put on these didn't have the usual seams on each side of the top, but a center seam that ran down the center of the top from front to back, these seams were not the usual "overlap" style seam, but were a "french seam" that had the two halves sewn together, then folded back on each other at the seam, & then sewn down each side of the center (from the backside), resulting in a slightly raised double stitched seam in the center of the top, these were sealed with a bead of silicone over the resulting stitching on the backside of the seam.

I know it's kinda nit picky, but the Mustangs didn't use a sub frame, they were uni-body cars, & the Fords were painted with the bocy color underhood, along with the front rails & the paint was allowed to over spray from the firewall into the tunnel area, Most of the Mustangs I worked on have had the chassis painted with a primer-sealer that was a little browner than red oxide primer.