Brett Barrow

IROC and TransAm would be a separate license, they're not owned by GM.

No, in my experience clear and white styrene do not have the same characteristics at all. Clear is brittle and doesn't glue as well. Clear styrene is very hard to vac-form, the temp has to be perfect or it scorches. PETG is much better suited to vacforming if you need clear.

Sure. But you can make your own with colors you can't get in marker form or make with different types of paint they don't offer in markers. Just looking through Molotow's product line trying to find items that might be helpful to modelers.

Looks like it. Wanted to make sure they worked with model paints first. Probably have them in a week or two.

Molotow sent us some of these empty markers to play around with, they're the same as the 2mm and 4mm the chrome comes in. I tried Testor's enamel, Tamiya XF and Vallejo Model Air. They all work, the Tamiya probably should have been thinned a bit. The Testors and Vallejo Air worked fine. Paint should be thinned like you would for airbrushing. My first thought was they'd work great for doing RWL tires so here's one. (Sorry it's the goofy upside-down AMT Firestones, that's all I had at hand ).

Fronts: 15/16" dia, 3/16" wide Slicks: 1-1/4" dia, 5/8" wide.

They're the tires from Revellogram Pro-Stock kits, IIRC. I'll try to get a measurement sometime today.

Big Deuce was $119.95 MSRP last time it was resissued (and I kick myself for not getting one from work at the time!) 10 years ago. Just with inflation that's $140 today. So yeah, probably $150 or so. The recent 1/8 65 Vette from RoG was $159 MSRP.

Yep, those Starliner wheels are the best Supremes in scale (although I think AMT claimed they were Americans). The Round2-era 2 in 1 boxings have them, too. Too bad the 60 Ford does nothing for me or I'd buy a bunch to get those wheels.

Means the 29 Roadster maybe? They go for around $30.

If anybody's building this car, DO NOT use Moebius' recommendation of Algerian Blue. It's not this color at all (maybe it was painted that when new) I should have done a bit more googling before ordering some. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ oh well, it's still a pretty cool color. It's possible it was G-158 Beret Blue but I would bet it was repainted with something more metallic than either original Hudson color

They'd need to tool a new body to do the ZL1. The front fascia is molded into the body. The SS, 1LE, and Fifty all have the same fascia, the differences are in the chin spoiler and grille.

Wow, I'm not normally a truck guy but that looks great! How'd you do the metal on the trailer? Hope you don't mind but I went even more vintage to try to better match your reference pic. I think you got pretty close!

I built the pre-painted 2016 SS kit a couple weeks ago. You'll need to tweak either the suspension or how the chassis tucks up into the body to get the stance right. I ground the two lugs off the back of the grille indent and made sure the chassis was glued in tight as it will pop out if you don't glue it. I was going to do the same to the back but I noticed the 1:1 has a bit of a jacked up look so I left it as is. If you want the body to remain removable you'll have to lower the suspension. Fun kit, and the pre-paint parts were done really well on this one. The interior is super nice. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/121649-amt-125-2016-camaro-pre-painted-kit/

Looks great! You just can't go wrong with Plum Crazy on this car. I love the Day-Two look. Are those the Revell 32 Ford five-spoke Americans? The spokes look smoothed out instead of textured like they usually are. Maybe it's just the photo, but I could really use some smooth ones for an Astro Supreme stand-in. If they came out of a different kit I'll track some down.

Tenax is out of business as well. I was never a big fan of the hotter/faster glues like Ambroid & Tenax (they tended to etch Japanese plastic and I was building a lot of Hasegawa planes at the time), I always preferred the milder/slower ones like Testors & Tamiya Extra Thin, but lately I've been using some Mr Cement S and I really like it. Not easy to find in the US, but most of the Gundam-centric sites carry it. It sets up really fast. You can sand a seam in a couple hours. I use it a lot now, along with Tamiya and the Model Master needlepoint when I need a slower set time.

Coming along nicely! Where'd you find those little metal clamps?

Make sure it's "Copy Image" and not "Copy Image Address". And make sure the mouse is over the image when you right-click Nice Woody!

In case anyone was wondering, the pens themselves can be sent by air. They're encapsulated. Molotow says the 30mL refill will do about 7 refills of 1mm or 2mm pens or 4 fills of the 4mm. Replacement tips will be available, and you can actually switch the 1mm and 2mm in the same pen (it's messy, though).

Ok, I found out the img tag works. I don't use Fotki anymore. I don't think they have a BBCode link you can copy. It needs to have the img and /img tags in brackets, like this: [img]http://i.imgur.com/9Mf4Wfrh.jpg[/img] Gets you this:

I noticed that too. Just copying the link in the message doesn't work anymore. I have to use the Image button and paste it in there.

Yeah, on hollow tires it's better doing them after they're on the wheels.

Clear paint. I used to use Model Master Enamel Clear Top Coat, but lately I've switched to Mr Color #46 Clear. I used it on some PE parts on the hull on a tank model and it was so strong i could hold the entire hull up by the PE part.

Welcome back,! Z/28 is a 302. Super glue will work for scripts but doesn't give you much time to reposition. Clear parts glue works. Clear paint works, too. So does epoxy. They will give you more time to reposition. You can clear over the scripts but the clear coat will curve at the edges and it doesn't look realistic. You can clear over BMF, I never have but some do, some don't. Do polish the paint under where the foil's going to go so it's nice and smooth.

Paypal's great. Buyer's protected, seller's protected. I even once had my Paypal hacked and they sent $200 to Russia, I filed a claim and a couple days later I had my money back. A money orders costs a buck plus the stamp to send it and the gas to the Post Office and back. Paypal costs the buyer nothing.