Paul Payne

Finally got the rat custom done. I will also be adding two figures- Roxie and Raymond Ratkewlski, who actually built, own, and drive this car!

Finished! Here's a sneak peek- more in under glass.

Can't wait to see this one finished!

Old Monogram kits like the Green Hornet, T35 Bugatti, and Duesenberg were and are great kits to build.

I knew that............................

BTW, that is definitely Come And Arrest Me RED!

Replicas and Miniatures (Norm Veber) has excellent Ardun heads that fit on most any 1/25th scale flathead. The kit has pulleys, belt material- everything you need. However, the hood sides will need to be bulged or omitted for them to fit.

Might be able to help. Will PM when I find it (both cushions?)

Almost there- a little more putty in a couple of areas and more flat black, and the body work and paint will be done! Next on the list- fitting glass!

Again, thanks for looking and commenting!

thanks, guys!

Thanks, guys! Need to address the gap between the hood and hood sides and grille. Crept in during final assembly. Imagine that!

Finished!

Finished! Sneak preview! More pix in under glass.

Progress! Putty thrown (waiting to sand because of drying paint on another project), interior completed, chassis in progress, engine wired and awaiting completion. The Mexican/Navajo blankets were found on the internet, printed, cut to size, fitted, then soaked in water until soft (printed on bond paper)and molded to the seats until dry. They were then lifted off and white glue was used to permanently attach them.

How bout the filter for the tiger hairs??

Sail panels and rear window surrounds installed as well as successfully cutting out the rough rear window opening and installing the rear window- very satisfying to get these mini projects accomplished! Soon time for sanding, putty, sand again, etc. etc.

Good start!

Andrew, one thing about body work is to not do too much cutting without super gluing things solid again. You need the structural solidity to prevent cracking, distortion, and add accuracy for the next cut! Try to use as much styrene as possible and as little putty as possible.

Thanks, Bob! Going to do some people to go with it! Haven't done figures in an age! Using Preiser 1/24th scale- Roxie and Raymond. Checked the fit of the interior and chassis and everything is looking good. Going to do a Mexican blanket interior. Just finished hacking out the passenger side sail panel and super glued it in place. Next will be the drivers side and then the usual super glue reinforcement. After that, cutting out the rear window opening and installing the surround. More darn fun! More pix soon!

Here's my latest- 49 Ford 47 rat- sits level!

While painting another project I got inspired to start another one- a chopped, pie sectioned sinister looking 49 Ford with Revell's 427 engine with 2 4bbl carbs. This one will be painted flat black. I got into this project and made more and more progress so didn't take pictures until this morning. After the rear rolled pan front pan and grille surround, and rear skirts were added and the super glued. The body was pie cut about 4 scale inches at the rear, to zero about 1/2 actual inch from the rear of the front wheel openings. I always felt the rear fender area was a bit heavy on the shoe boxes. The A pillars were cut about 5 scale inches, keeping the cuts as close to horizontal as possible. Expansion cuts were cut into the roof in order to spread the upper pillars to line up with the lower portions. The rear window was cut out for later installation in the new rear roof section. The roof was cut in half at the B pillars and then the B pillars and rear of the roof was removed. Short sections of the sail panels were retained along with the rear curve of the window moldings. What to do for he rear roof? I wanted a very smooth but not flat transition from the existing roof to the rear deck. I tried the hind end of an early Corvette but the curves ended up being all wrong. Solution- the chopped top section from the 53 Studebaker kit. This is where I am at- next step is cutting the opening for the rear window and installing it. All through this I used super glue quite heavily throughout to maintain as much strength as possible. I also wanted to use the stock spinner and horizontal grille bars.

Guys, thanks for the info. When I try to spray, there is only a light dribble of paint. If I try the hole method, I will shake the can thoroughly. Can anything be used to probe the exit and actuate the valve?

I have a can of spray paint which has lost pressure. Is there a way to get the paint out for use in an airbrush?

Super build of an old time rod!