my66s55

Warm the bottle of resin.

I have 8gb of RAM on my laptop. I've had Blender 2.91.2 crash on me a couple of times while working on very large files. Blender 2.82a does not crash. Chitubox slicer 9.4 will crash when trying to save large sliced files. Version 9.3 doesn't. I switched my operation system to Linux in 2010 and never looked back. Linux is much less labor intensive than windows. The other thing you need to do in Blender is to constantly save you file. I date the file I'm working on and sometimes will add a 1 or letter like A. I can always go back to a previous file if necessary.

4k can't do what thus can. For $120 you gain a lot. Read my last post on "my 3d projects" thread in W.I.P.

Right now on Amazon has the best printer you can get in this price range. Twice as good as the 4k.

I received the new 8k printer I've been waiting for on October 1st. It's everything the reviewer said it was. Here's some of my results. The wire wheel for the 53 Caddy. This is the wire wheel for the 37 Delehaye F&F roadster. I ran water through and blew on them before they were u.v. cured. I'm going to print them again and not do that to see if none of the spokes break. The print bed on this printer is 218 mm long 123 mm wide and 224 mm high. It's xy is 28 um. The small printers used by many is 35 um. The printer Mrobsessive, i.e. Bill Geary is using prints at 50 um. The lower the um xy, the greater the detail. This size enables me to print most car bodies flawlessly at 50 um layers flawlessly. This 53 Caddy was printed at 50 um layers on my 4k machine that was faster than this one, but took 11+ hrs to print. This one was printed at 50 um on the new 8k machine and took exactly 6 hrs 22 minutes and it prints slower. I printed the 35 LaSalle body at 36 degrees slope and 30 um and it took 22 hrs. I printed the same body flat at 50 um and it took exactly 7 hr. There is no difference in the quality of the print.

If you get a body shell, how are you going to get the rest of it?

Finally got my new printer yesterday and the 55 Plymouth Belvedere convertible file Dan did for me.

Here's the frame chart. https://www.ebay.com/itm/233195233885 I have no idea how you are going to do this. I have the earlier torqueflite trans used until 1962.

If they don't have a face and are just lines they won't print. I use the Meshlab program to check my files for correctness. It will show you what the file will print.

I don't have any problem thickening files, Bill. You are doing fairly well so far, but you will get better as you gain more experience and learn how to solve your problems. I have found that experience is the best teacher.

I've been working on the 56 Dodge and have all but the windshield ready for a test print. Of coarse it's a Coronet Royal Lancer Convertible. I've included the files from my 55 Dodge in the pics, but they will need some adjusting to fit this body.

Yes, they come in obj format. But, as I previously sated above, they are gaming files and very difficult to take apart. There is no separation of parts like your used to. It's totally different and takes me days to do. The 56 Mercury took 6 days at 3-5 or more hours a day to do. Then you have to know how to properly fill holes that you create in the process. The parts that are made separately don't always line up. You have to alter them to work. On and on. There a lot of work.

I've had that Safari for at least a couple years. It's just not a good file. These files are done by Dan Palatnik. There $150 each. Go to his Facebook page and check it out. There"s 56 Buick Roadmaster 2dr hardtop. He's doing the 55 Plymouth for the same $150. His files are all high poly count.

I found three 56 car files that I've purchased and modified for 3d printing. There just isn't any files available for these, but I got lucky and found a gaming file producer that had them. Their pricey and need some modification. He's also creating a 55 Plymouth Belvedere convertible for me. The Caddy 331 engine and thans are almost finished. The 56 Continental is ready for print and the 58 Ford Sunliner convertible is almost printable. The new printer should be here by the end of August. Here's the three 56"s. Pontiac Star Chief Catalina Sports Coupe -the front bumpers need scaling down. Mercury Montclair. - I had to flatten the small grill. Dodge Custom Royal Lancer-can't find anything wrong. I will probably combine this front end onto the rear of the 55 and make the few changes..

Progress on the Caddy engine. Water pump housing is done. Center exhaust pots for heads is done. The correct Hydra-Matic Trans is well underway. The oil pan needs to be corrected.

Is this what your looking for Micheal? This is a newer release with better plastic. There is no warping. I bought it a few years ago for the body. I made a resin casting of it for my convertible project. There is no interior but, everything is in good shape. Message me if interested.

Go on Squir.com for the 65. It's $99. Squir is top notch. TurboSquid doubles the price.

The other thing you need to watch for with purchased files is the accuracy. I covered this in my "My 3d printed projects" posts with a Hum3D 55 Dodge file that was major messed up. I downloaded the free 56 Pontiac Safari file and new something major was amiss. I'll turn it into a convertible at some later date. I put the file on top of a good side view because the front wheel well was off. I'll use this setup to correct it.

You did a fantastically beauty-full job on this classic. My hats off to you.

The system that the guy used in that first video were he brushed it on and then buffed it won't last. I checked out the chrome nail application not using the gel and it doesn't last long. As a couple of other things I'll add is that one some techs use iso alcohol on the gel before applying the powder. It helps it adhere better. Also. If your attempt doesn't come out perfect or you missed some spots you have two options. Leave it in 91 % iso alcohol for a few hours and most will come off. The rest has to be lightly sanded off. If you missed a few spots, just apply another coat. The addition led cured of a gel top coat will protect it and won't dull the shine.

I didn't insult your printer. My Shuffle 2018 is a step up from the printers you considered. A company like Phrozen also makes a better quality line as well as the hobby printers. I've had my Shuffle XL since September 2018. It's electronics aren't cheap Chinese and the software isn't Chitubox garbage. A Raspberry Pi 3b ( you know-not made in Mainland China) powers a main mother board, a much better designed led array, the lcd and 3 fans. The software is NanoDLP which runs circles around Chitubox. The z axis is secured at the top and not hanging in mid air. The dual z axis has 2 slides and very high quality glides. There is a solid metal build plate with a solid metal fixture that holds it to the glides.. I started 3d printing in August 2013 when I built me first printer. It was a diy fdm machine. That's when I started learning to use Blender. I build my second 3d printer in the fall of 2014. It was a DLP resin printer. Back then there was a program called Creation Workshop that ran the machine. There was no auto support generator so I had to learn how to place supports. Since I've built my own printers, I know what it takes to make a good printer and how the printer actually works. As far as printing goes, I know what works and what doesn't. As a side note, the working basics of these resin printers your using weren't developed by some company. The open source community back in 2014 started experimenting with resin DLP printers and Kickstarters were used to fun small startups This is where Formlabs came from. Circa early 2016, the open source community started developing a resin printer using one powerful led for curing. That only allowed a small surface for curing so someone started using an led array. I know all this because I was there and was a member of a couple of diy forums. In November 2016, a couple of built printers came out of China. One was the Wanhoo Duplicator 7. It was roughly constructed and Wanhoo relied on the open source community to help them fix it. Circa 2017, a group of 3d printer enthusiasts from Taiwan formed and made a printer called the Make and started a kickstarter to fund it. It was a success so they improve it and made a printer called Shuffle. That company is Phrozen. They gained a reputation for building good, affordable printers that still exists today. Both the printers and the reputation. The Shuffle XL followed and that's when I bought mine. Check it out.

So what, prey tell, has this to do with the topic at hand?

I don't know guys. Most of your problems come from the lack of experience. People say Robert Burns body's are thick. I have stated and I will restate now. He has a reason and that is that a thicker body will be, the less inclined for failure. These print ready files you purchase on line are, for the most part, too thin. Hence the rips in one of Oldmopar's build. I have never had a failure when printing car bodies, or anything for that matter, on my Phrozen Shuffle 2018 that I converted to 4k two years ago. But then, the printer is a step up from what you are using. As to thickness, I make my car bodies at 1.6 to 1.7 mm thickness. I checked the thickness on a couple of printable bodies and the max thickness was 1.4 mm. Also leave the bodies in the build plate for post curing. If you insist in using the too thin bodies, leave the supports on after post curing. The resin continues to cure afterwards. Thus, the warping. I totally avoid making anything real thin. It will eventually warp over time. When you encounter a body such as the one Oldsmopars is having trouble with remember that 3d printing is an additive process. Lowering the angle will increase the quality of the build. a 15 to 20 degree printed with the front down should do wonders. There should be no reason not to be able to print Oldmopars body correctly. What's missing is experience.

Your way Apply adhesive layer, brush the powder on a tacky base coat of paint , buff. Enjoy chrome finish. My way apply gel layer, uv cure (uv curing hardens the layer so you can touch it. It's not sticky.) rub the powder on with a sponge applicator , brush off unused powder. No sticky surface or buffing. My bumper looks a whole lot better than that spoon. My powder even looks more metallic. The non gel way takes a lot more work to get it to shine and in my eyes view, doesn't appear to be as shinny.

Here's a nail tech putting it on nails. It works the same way on plastic and resin parts.