my66s55

The first picture is American maple. I printed it out, measured it and cut it into strips. Then contact glued it to the back floor of my 40 sedan delivery as seen in picture 3. Picture 4 is a short piece of teak that I used to make the missing dash in a Rolls roadster. Picture 5 is a long piece of Burmese teak and picture 6 is red oak. All these and more are found with a google search for exotic wood.

It was so easy. Just google Farari F1. Here is Farari's model. http://store.ferrari.com/en/collectibles/models-for-collectors/f1-models/f60-model-1-8-scale-formula-1-world-championship-2009.html#

Real!

Yes, Alclad can be brushed. Here is example tutorial on how it's done. http://www.modelcarsonline.com/Tips%20&%20Tricks/Brushing%20Alclad/Brushing%20Alclad.htm

I tried mine and it came right up. I tried yours and it came up "page not found". The only time I lost my account access was when I didn't use it for quite awhile.

I have this kit and it is up for build in the near future. I reference my builds as much as possible and I must say, you did a perfect reproduction of this auto. Fantastic job.

real

How about a Sunbeam Tiger? And don't forget about the 1937 & 39 Delaheyes with Figoni & Falaschi coach work.

Got em all. 48 of 48.

model

I am neither a hoarder or collector. I am an investor. At 55 years of age in 2000, I started accumulating my investment. I located every plastic model kit, diecast and resin car model that I wanted for display in my home and purchased then. Now, I knew I wasn't going to work much longer and needed something to keep me busy. I don't play golf. Besides its very expensive. I don't watch a lot of tv and what I do watch if off an indoor rabbit ears. So modeling cars was to be a big factor in retirement. I amassed over three hundred kits, almost all pre-1972. Now, keep in mind that in that time period you could by kits from Hobby Heaven on closeout for about $5 a piece. E-bay was a decent place to buy and even my local hobby shop had kits for $7-$10. Now ,I have a choice of what I want to build, the money is already spent when I had it to spend and the same kit today, if I could find it, is much more money. I made an investment in my future retirement and if I pass on, there's money for my son.

My first car was a 1957 Triumph TR-3. I have the Minicraft 1958 TR-3A which is missing the grill. The grill appears to be the only difference in the two. I plan on scratch building the 57 grill and modifying the 58 to fit it.

Real

Model

I have the same one Terry does. Had it for about 8 years and it works great. I painted a 65 Dodge 2 weeks ago with Testers little bottle enamel, put it in the Nesco @ about 110 degrees for 12 hours, let it sit out for 12 more hours and then color sanded it.

According to my source, the 292 was carried through 1962 in full size Fords and Mercurys carried the 312 through 1960 and the 292 in 1961 & 62. The FE was also available starting 1958 through 1976.

I have the 53 Stude Double Whammy. It appears to be the same tooling and may be part of the cause. It may be that way to get the front end up enough for the dragster. Just a thought. It's a 2 in 1 kit that can also be built stock.

I saw just over the last couple of days a guy showed how he used a car taillight bulb element for carb linkage. It looked like an 1157 bulb. Cant't remember now where I saw it.

Some people even dip the parts in it. A guy on the SA board did a tutorial how to.

There is an Olds motor in the 39/40 Ford sedan and also the 29 Ford roadster pickup.

the chrome doesn't look right - model

I saw a tutorial on using these type of elastic about 6 years ago and bought a bag. Never did try it. The masking tape idea that Lee mentions appears on the Italian Horses website of Alex Kustov: http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Drivebelt/dbelts.htm

I just started attempting to foil. Like everything else, I do my research. One trick I picked up on one of the boards is the use of low sticking tape like painters tape. I have used this for foiling the metal in pickup beds. Tape up to the edge of where you want to foil. Apply the foil and burnish it down to where it meets the tape. A nice edge to follow will be created at the cut line. When you'r done, peal the tape and the trimmed foil comes up with it leaving a nice surface with no glue residue to clean up. Works real well for me.

real

I found the link for the mold shrinking. Check this out http://www.scihighmodels.com/howto_shrink.html