LoneWolf15

I've been following along here , the wish list is interesting to say the least . Do I believe there is a resurgence in the car model world ? Without a doubt ! I've been in this hobby for a long time . Dudek insists that he and I , along with Harry , sat behind Moses in second grade . Given my occasional bouts with the CRS syndrome , I have to take his word for it ! In all of those 50 years , I do not recall this many new kits ever being released in such a short time span ! Best scenario , they are of a far better quality then what we've ever seen before in the car modeling world . In their day , the early releases of the AMT kits did not have the flash , sink marks , etc , that are associated with today's re- releases of those same kits . Say what you will , almost all of these modern model companies have really stepped up to the plate and given us some fabulous kits to work with . I would like to see the following ..... ' 65 Belvedere Complete new tool for a ' 55 and ' 57 Nomad wagon More sedan deliverys - 36 Ford , ' 37 Chevy , ' 41 Chevy , ' 50 Ford , etc ! Yes , Mr Most , I too , would love to see more iconic pickup kits offered , I'm sure we're not alone on this one . I'm not sure if the model industry pays close enough attention to what the aftermarket has to offer which they should ! For example , Slixx decals have a beautiful decal sheet for at least 6 of the ' 65 Belvedere Super Stock cars , that doesn' t count several other companies offerings for said subject ! The new Hemi Dart proved this point all by itself ! Oh , almost forgot , drag cars ! 1/25th scale '70's Dusters , Barracudas , Challengers , Vegas , etc . Yes , they have been done before but not correctly ! My opinion and wish list , let the screaming now begin ! Lol ! The Old Man

In addition to mike's post , you can also alternate between the pearled clear and the standard clear coats to add more depth to your overall pearl finish . Remember ! Alternating light mist coats between the two will provide you with the best possible finish ! Be patient and use numerous light coats rather than several heavy ones .

You can't clear over a waxed surface , you'll end up with more fish eyes than what's in the ocean! Why not apply the decals over your polished surface and be done with it ? Properly applied decals really don't need a clear coat over them . Just my opinion based on experience .

Umm ! Virgil ?? Sorry to point this out .... My man , you have been way past the edge for a looong time . Actually , it's more of a free fall into the Plastic Abyss ! Welcome to the flight , do not expect to land anytime soon ! So many kits , so little time and look what they are releasing now ! It's never going to end , is it ?

Aww , C'mon , You really don't know ? Scale bird poop and housewives running along the shelves with scale grocery carts play hell with decals and finishes ! I handle my models alot more than most due to our display at the shows and don't have any problems . However , as you stated , to each their own !

Even though it's laquer , I'd still give it a day or so to flash out , just to be on the safe side . As for decal solvent , unless it's an elaborate decal scheme , why use it ? Smooth them out with a dampened piece of t shirt , then a dry piece and call it a day . I feel like an idiot right now , realizing who I'm explaining this to . Lol ! As for clearing over the stripes , I wouldn't . If you are going for the correct look , ( when don't you ? ) stripes were decals on the 1:1s . For that matter , almost all of the art on the drag cars was either painted on or were decals. On the modeling level , in my opinion , clearing over decals can lead to very bad things ! Donn

Brother D , Welcome to the Nut House ! As always , outstanding work ! Donn Yost

The classes should be separate , pitting one against the other is really not fair to either party . I spent decades weathering everything that moved or stood still for model railroading , it is an art form in it's own right . To support the other side of the coin , go to the " Achilles Heel " thread here on the forum . There you will find what modelers consider their biggest stumbling block , achieving a smooth , shiny , near flawless paint job . Hard work goes into both but they really should be judged separately . Donn Yost

Your local Sears store or Advance Auto will carry moisture traps . Well worth the investment !

Monogram / Revell Pro stock kits . Bob Dudek sells the front mags in machined aluminum . Micro Nitro also sells a complete set . Kris Morgan from MAD has them in both plain and chromed resin

My choice between the two would be the 150 . My main choice for airbrushing model cars would be the Paache H series single action , using the # 5 head and needle assembly . Anything more is simply overkill unless you plan on doing alot of fine line airbrushing or weathering .

Local hobby shops generally carry them . I believe Micromark also has them on stock . I especially love how they work when using bare metal foil . Ultra thin , sharply defined cuts can be achieved using the slightest amount of pressure on the blade . Their sharpness and thinness of blade makes the standard # 11s seem like a butter knife . Be careful when using !!!!!

One thing to add , I've found that using Squadron #11 scapel blades for cutting the gaps works even better than the standards . It removes that " heartattack " factor ! It provides such a thin , clean cut , that the decal edges fall into the gap . One other tip , a touch of Testors high gloss clear along the edge of the gap will seal the decal's edge .

The first will be a pro street , the second will be a drag car . I even know what color they'll be done in ! Come to think of it , how twisted is that . Bad enough to know how you're going to build a kit that hasn't even been released yet , but to know what color they're going to be ? I definitely need help !! Lol !

Jim , I would say that the Turtle Wax would be more abrasive than the Novus 2 from past experience . I know for a fact that it will chew an enamel paint job up in half a heartbeat . The Novus 2 , on the otherhand , is great with the enamels. Donn Yost

Have you tried using any of the Microbrush applicators ? I use the fine size and they are an excellent tool , bar none ! Given your situation , they are ultra light and very easy to handle . You can easily cut them to any length , whatever you feel comfortable with .

Mike , Thanks for helping out with the battery cables , it is greatly appreciated ! Yup ! New battery installed on Monday morning and Sleek is good to go ! Again , thank you very much ! Donn

Hmmmnn, Let's see ! A 2001 Chevy Silverado named " Sleek " . A 1985 Chevy high performance pickup called " The Old Girl " . And last , but certainly not least , the new toy ! A 1994 5.0 Mustang GT that is built quite a bit beyond what Ford had in mind back in the day . I had completely forgotten what it was like to own a 5 speed bullet on wheels , what a rush !

Andy , The really great part about your truck..... Every single part on it is readily available ! You are going to have a blast restoring it !

See'in is believin' , Swamp Boy ! Lol! Care to take a tour through oldmansmodels.com for a refresher / reminder ? Enamels polish out to a beautiful finish . Not my fault that you live in Humidtyville and can't use real paint ! Bwahahaha !

Prayers for all in it's path ! Daughter , son in law , and granddaughter left NC and are now in Pgh. No wonder the hair is turning white !

I believe that Jameston's ( Scalefinishes ) are acrylic enamels .

First off ... I love the color , suits the car perfectly ! Second .... Are you ever going to run out of said color ? Lol ! The Old Man

What type of paint and thinner are you using ? Another variable that comes into play would be temperature / humidity . The aforementioned can all have a significant affect on the length of the paint's flashout . Best part of the scenario , a few slight adjustments to your paint environment will provide an easy resolution to your problem .