LoneWolf15

The custom version that Revell released awhile back came with a tube grill . Box art had a white car with purple flame graphics which also came with the kit .

Depending on temperature and humidity when the body is painted , 1 to 3 days tops for flashout . While you are waiting , work on your interior , motor , chassis , etc . As for the second question ... My inline filters cost me $ 300 , so , no , no overkill there . Lol ! Buying good equipment is a must , never an option ! Cheap always comes back to haunt you . As for your son , that is fantastic news ! He was a pleasure to talk to and showed a real interest in what was going on at the tables . You could see the proverbial wheels turning upstairs as he stood listening to the conversations . Work side by side with him , step by step , in no time at all he will be a force to be reckoned with !

Mike , Mixing several of the darker colors over a light base or into it will bring them out . Light colors over a darker base without a coat of clear in between will give you an entirely different color. I like the results of the clear / color clear alternate coats best . I enjoy the reaction of someone walking past and doing a doubletake as the light changes and the color flips as they're looking at it on the tables . They are definitely a wow factor ! Art and Doug , Thank you for the kind words . It's a shame that others haven't picked up on it , or refuse to see it for what it is . It's a great educational tool .

Doug , No need for thanks , the simple fact that you learned from the DVD is more than enough for me ! Your acknowledgement of it is greatly appreciated . Mike , I have been mixing the Pearl X in the clear , alternating color mixes with plain clear coats in between . Taking a base color , I've been laying 2 to 3 corresponding colors overtop . To say that I'm pleased with the results would be a complete understatement ! Unfortunately , some of the subtle colors do not translate well in photographs ! Virgil , If the paints are as good as the additives , they must be some kind of product . Last time Kathie and I were in Michaels , she pointed out several metallic glitter kits Jaquards offers . I realize the flake might be a bit too big overall . However with a bit of sifting , I think the finer micron flakes would fit the bill perfectly .

When I first set out to do the DVDs , I knew it would have to be simple and straightforward , hence, the enamels . A product that is easy to use , readily available , and produces great results . Had I attempted to integrate all of the paints out there into the DVD , the length would have been far too long , and the cost would have been astronomical . As it was , the cost to produce the DVDs was $ 20,000 all told . I have a hard enough time selling them at $ 20 , let alone jacking the price any higher to compensate for yet another disc ! The entire premise was to establish a firm foundation for anyone using an airbrush , whether it be for the first time or the 10,000 ! It works , plain and simple , and that is what I set out to do in the first place ! The entire set of steps leading up to the application of the paint can be used by any modeler , regardless of their choice of paint medium . Contrary to the popular misconception ...... I used laquers and acrylics for decades when playing in Trainland . The fact that I use enamels exclusively for painting my model cars is a personal choice . My way of doing it produces the exact results that I am seeking each and every time . Can I achieve the same results with laquer ? Of coarse I can , I simply prefer the ease of the enamels . As for experimentation , my hat goes off to The Maniac ! Thanks to your suggestion about the Pearl X additives , I am having a blast coming up with new color combinations and effects . What a way to make paintwork dance and shimmer ! Thanks , Buddy !

Musta been painted with laquer !

G, Wondered what happened to this since our last discussion . Looking good thus far ! Keep at it !

You can always use Testors semi gloss black , cut it with the laquer thinner and it'll be dry in a matter of minutes . Go ' head , Mikey , I dare ya ! Lol !

Mike is on the money with this one ! It will also cause your your compressor to strain while it's running and shorten it's lifespan ! Far easier to take a minute or two to drain it rather then to have to purchase a new compressor .

I agree with Skip ! Every member of MCM has to buy a copy of both DVDs and then we won't need the TIps column at all , everybody will know all there is to know because of the DVDs ! Right ? Bwaaahhhaahhha ! In all seriousness , I am not sure that I have the time to take on such a position and do it justice . At times , when provoked , I do not play well with others , nor suffer fools gladly , this could also present a problem . Greg might be forced to ban me for bad language the first time an idiot accuses me of playing God for deleting his post based on his asinine assumption that laquer paints are God's gift to modelers ! That's a joke , KIds ! Aimed at Harry , none the less ! Lol ! We do need to do something , of that , there is no doubt . We have too many new faces around here and need to be responsible when it comes to providing them with the best information that is available .I will discuss this with Kathie to see what she thinks and then get in touch with Harry ! I still like Skip's idea ! Lol ! The Old Man Bob , I might have sat behind Moses in 5th grade , but you sat in front of him in 1st !

Harry , Tips Tricks and Techniques is already overdue for a good facelift , as in cleaned out ! Whole lotta misinformation put in there by one of the young studs . He went running into the mine field without the map in his back pocket and misinformational shrapnel is flying ' all over the place ! I believe in free speech more so then the next guy but this is just plain ugly and needs to be removed . The Old Man

I would love to see Revell bring out a ' 65 Plymouth Belvedere . A 2 in 1 drag / stock kit would be an excellent addition to their line . Combine this kit with a little help from Slixx decals and the possibilities are endless ! I too would love to see a new ' Cuda . A ' new release of a ' 69 and of coarse a ' 70 thru ' 72 would be a given ! One can only dream !

Either Testors Guards Red or Boyds Dark Red will give you a great looking interior .

In a word ... Absoulutely , I do it all the time !

By purchasing your paint from Model Empire , Hobby Linc , etc , you can save a small fortune when compared to the local shops prices . This will be cheaper than the cost of the Duplicolor cans , just a suggestion , you might want to consider .

I have a question .... If you watched the DVD , saw the results that can be achieved using the enamels , then why not use the enamels and end up with the same type of finish ? Seeing is believing , and it obviously works , why try to fix what isn't broke ? To answer your question .... All three require a different approach when being airbrushed . Laquer is the closest to the enamels as laid out in the DVD , application wise , the acrylics are not even in the same ballpark . Try it with the enamels first , following the steps laid out in the DVD . I think that you will be very pleased with the results .

A 2 to 1 paint to laquer thinner ratio will work just fine . Yes , you should wear gloves . Your local grocery store should carry boxed medical gloves , preferably the non powdered type. As for a mask , you should always wear a respirator when airbrushing . Best results can be achieved using a multitude of light , continuos mist coats until you have an overall smooth , even , shine on your painted surface . Applying clear , use the same ratio of clear to thinner as you did with the paint . Stay away from the whites , ivories , etc , with the testors clear , it will yellow . Straight up polishing of the light colored enamels will give you a beautiful shine sans the clear ! Donn Yost Lone Wolf Custom Painting

Romell , Floquil makes a gun metal blue , look for it in the train section of your local hobby shop . The Old Man

Rob, Good for you ! Well thought out and tactfully stated . Now that we seem to have a new bunch of youngsters to help along , it's time for the old guys to start using their heads too ! Example .... Someone asks about which airbrush they should purchase . Answer .... Buy an Iwata ! Really ? A dual action , top of the line airbrush , coming out of the gate for a beginner ? No way ! Too much potential for frustration and failure ,along with a very large learning curve ! As Rob stated , as have I and several others , numerous times , Teach the " walk before you run " premise. Single action with all the bells and whistles makes far better sense . We all forget the many nights of messing with Lady Trial n Error . Was it because we were too stubborn to quit , too dumb , or because we wanted it that bad ? Today's young modeler has a diffrent mind set , if at first you don't succeed , screw it , back to the video games . We don't want that , we want them to have success so they hang around . Hence , the older modelers need to teach patience , and be thoughtful when offering advice . Back in the day , we raided Mom's sewing backet for her thread ( ignition wiring ) , the pin cushion for fuel lines and linkage , etc . We worked cheap and with what we had . Those days are gone ! There is so much out there , aftermarket wise , it's mind boggling . Yet , we have older modelers constantly chirping about working cheap . Cheap tools , parts , products , etc ,the results usually show through the work and it's not good . Does'nt have to be the Cadillac of tools everytime , the Chevy Caprice with all the bells and whistles will work just fine ! We need to teach the youngsters to put the money in the equipment first , kits second ! This lowers the frustration level in more ways then can be counted . These young modelers have an advantage we never even dreamed of , the Internet . There is literally an entire education waiting for them and it is right at their fingertips ! Books , dvds , tutorials , forums , etc , the list is endless as is the information ! That being said , it still comes down to the older guys helping them sift through the good , the bad , and the ugly and helping them see it for what it is ! Too many times , I've seen a page and a half written on a subject by an " expert " only to go on their Fotki site to find that they can't even glue two engine block halves together without screwing it up ! This drives me batso ! Fair , firm , consistent , advice and praise will go a lot farther in the long run towards making a better modeler then sugar coating . A glue bomb is just that , a glue bomb , nothing more or less ! Praising a bad paint job , build , workmanship , etc , does no one any favors . They are not going to improve without the tough love that is needed ! Notice , I said tough love , not brutality . That is how the flame wars generally start , some people are as subtle as a kick in the face . Criticism needs to be tempered with common sense ! Sorry , Rob , long winded , I guess it was one of those days for me too ! Glad you put this up , I think it will help ! Donn Yost Lone Wolf Custom Painting

John, You're uncomfortable ? Those are my nipples that he's talking about , not yours ! Frankly . I'm scared to death ! On the serious note .... The nipples allow you to turn the body 360 degrees in every imaginable position , you will never miss a part of the body with your spray pattern again .

I use black iron pipe nipples , 1/2 or 3/4 in , 6 in. long . Take a piece of 2 1/2 masking tape , lay it sticky side up on the top of the pipe nipple , take another piece and wrap it around the side to hold the top piece in place . Simply stick your body onto the pipe nipple and you can turn the body 360 degrees while you are holding it and airbrush at the same time . You'll find it very easy to handle and your overall paint coverage will improve tenfold ! Donn Yost

Jon , I use nothing but the Model Master clear . I cut it at a 2 parts clear to 1 part cheap laquer thinner ratio . I know for a fact that it will yellow in time as a top coat over white . However , it has'nt on my other metallics and pearl colors , this is going back over a ten year period of time . Apply light mist coats until you have a smooth and even coverage . I do not use the clear over standard colors , I simply polish them out . Hope this helps . Donn Yost Lone Wolf Custom Painting

Tom. Dixieart.com has the h series set for $'63.00 which Includes shipping . The kit has everything you need to simply fire up and let the paint fly !

You can always try the Squadron scapel blades . Much thinner and a whole lot sharper then your average # 11 blade , half as thick also ! Provides a whisper cut with little or no pressure . All you have to do is clip the back off of the blade body with a pair of side cutters and it will slip into a # 11 knife body without a problem . Mark the tip of the blade with a black marker , it allows you to follow the blade's travel much easier . Donn Yost

A Paache H series set can be purchased at dixieart.com for around $63.00 which includes shipping . Everything is included to get you started . Next , you'll need a compressor with a tank ( Lowes , Sears , Home Depot ),a regulator , and a inline moisture trap . You'll want to use the # 5 needle and head assembly for maximum coverage. Nice thing about the H series ... When you need parts , they are readily available from the same place you bought it ! As long as you take care of it , it will last you for many years and perform like a champ ! Never buy cheap when it comes to your modeling equipment , it will always comes back and bite you in the backside ! Donn Yost Lone Wolf Custom Painting