Force

It's only the North American spec as it has a set-forward front axle...I would have liked to have the European style set-back axle instead...but it can be modified.

The only Ertl truck I have built so far is the Transtar II (walking beam) many years ago, after what I remember I liked it a lot. I do have one more, a F-4270, a couple of Transtar 4300's and a Volvo N10 to build.

The Fujimi 1:24 GT40 Mk I and Mk II kits are nice, Fujimi did a couple of versions of the Mk I where some body parts and wheels are different between the kits and in different liverys as it was raced several seasons (1964-69), there is only one version of the Mk II but in different liverys as it was raced only two seasons, 66 and 67 and the Mk IV were only used in the 67 season, after that the engine displacement changed to 5 litres maximum and the Mk II and Mk IV became obsolete. The Mk I is the only version there are upgrade kits for, nothing for Mk II yet as far as I know, the KA Models upgrade kit for the Mk I looks nice but the price is a bit steep, the HRM upgrade kit is also nice, you don't get as many parts as in the KA kit but it's a lot cheaper and you can do a decent detailed model with it,

Hopefully they have fixed the cracked cab and bad chrome problems from the recently re-issued flat top K100 kit this time. The only difference between the earlier K100 and this K100 Aerodyne is the roof section, everything else in the kits are the same.

This one I'm gonna watch closely.

Very nice replica.

Yes. The Meziere style water pumps where the electric motor and pump are one unit are a later thing

Nice work.

Yes that looks right. You have done nice progress so far.

The instructions from the latest re-issue of this kit has the belts wrong, I have the original issue from 1992 and the old instructions calls this belt wich is part 134 out as Water Pump, it's an electric water pump drive and the belt goes from the water pump axle to an electric motor. the water pump itself is molded together with the front engine plate. We use a similar one from Moroso on the 460 (wich is the same engine family as the Boss 429) in our Super Comp race car and it works well. The part 133 belt is for the dry sump pump, and there are two more belts that are left over from the other three kits based on this tooling wich were the Charles Carpenter 55 Chevy, the Rob Vandergriff Soff Seal 57 Chevy and the Richard Earle "Christine" 58 Plymouth. As for the distributor, most Ford engines has them at the front of the engine, the 239-312 Y-block is the exception to the rule and has it's at the rear on them. The old instruction also has the distributor at the back and that's wrong, this kit shares some parts for the chassis and engine with the other Pro Sportsman kits and it can be a oversight when the instructions were drawn up. Here is a picture of an electric water pump drive.

This is what I have been trying to say the whole time. Old AMT kits does not have any numbers on the plastic parts and you won't find any kit from that era that has as they never had them. But if you look at the instructions at the links in my last reply you see that there are numbers there beside the parts...but these numbers are only to tell what order to put the parts together in...they are not to identify the parts themselves. Sometimes AMT helped a bit by copying the complete parts trees in the instructions and have identifying numbers there, but I don't know if there are any issue of the Freightliner that has that.

I have been around trucks and Scanias my whole life so I noticed immediately that the lift bar was the wrong way in the instructions when I built my first Scania from Italeri back in the 80's. The bogie on the second picture is not mine, I found it on internet somwhere, I just used it to illustrate this, but to be able to lift the axle you have to cut and do pivot points where they are articulated on a real bogie, some work but it can be done. As for the drive and tag hubs, the Italeri ones are far from right but KFS has some nice more correct looking hubs available, they have just released several new hubs from 3D printed masters on their website.

Nice: I like the engine choice, it would be nice if someone did the Allis engine in resin.

Nice start. The Cat engine is 1:25th scale and the Scania DS14 is 1:24th scale, that's why they are different in size, the Italeri kit can also be slightly over scaled and the Revell kit under scaled and the differences gets larger if that's the case. Another thing tho' Italeri has one thing wrong in the instructions for the Scania and they have allways had that fault from the very beginning, the instructions show the part (lift beam) at the white arrow on the picture below upside down as you have mounted it, if the lift beam is mounted that way the support axle lift will not work. The lift beam should be the other way around and the hook parts on the lift beam should be above and push down at the rear spring mounts forcing the drive axle down and the support axle goes up. When both axles are down the lift beam should be up against the frame rails away from the suspension travel with the hook parts pointing upwards. Here is a picture with the lift beam the correct way so you can see how it works when the support axle is lifted.

It's the only 417 I know of. Donovan based their engine on the 392 and Keith Black on the 426.

AMT has two White Freightliner kits, one Dual Drive and one Single Drive. Here are the instructions for the Dual Drive. https://public.fotki.com/modeltrucks25thscale/truckkit_instructions/amt/5105_white-freightl Here are the instructions for the Single Drive https://public.fotki.com/modeltrucks25thscale/truckkit_instructions/amt/t530_white-freightl/ The thing with old AMT kits is that the instructions often (but not allways) has numbers and name of the part but the parts on the parts trees doesn't have any numbers, so you have to look at the instructions and compare the parts to them and find out what part goes where. The numbers on the instructions is to tell in what order you should put the parts together, not to identify the part itself. A little hint is when it says (C) or (Chrome) the part you need is on one of the chrome plated parts trees, if it says (Amber) they are on the amber parts tree, (Red) on the red parts tree, (Clear) on the clear parts tree and if it doesn't say anything except for the number the part is on one of the white parts trees. As I said before, I'm sure you can figure this out and build the kit, just take it easy and go slow.

I bought both the Lonestar and Prostar, both the reefer and dry goods trailers and several of the truck wheel sets and I hope Moebius not are done with trucks. There are several more modern trucks I would like to see as kits, I agree with the Freightliner Cascadia, a more modern KW W900, T660-680-700-2000, Pete 379-389, 386, 387 and 579 to mention some.

If you have the instructions it's not hard to put it together, the parts don't have any numbers on the trees but they are quite easy to identify when you compare them to the instructions. If you don't have any instructions it's another deal...but they are available on the internet. I built one of these as a teenager a long time ago...it must have been back in the late 70's as the kit I built came out 1977. Don't give up, if you take it easy and go slow and methodical I'm sure you can do it.

Yep, that's the one.

The original idea for this kit was a Jairus Watson design for Scale Auto Sketch Pad some years before the kit came out, but it looked a lot nicer, he had original style headlamps and Pontiac Banshee three spoke wheels, even the Dodge Copperhead Concept car wheels looks better on this kit.

You can cheat Photobucket and find all the pictures from this topic here. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Snake45/library/Model Cars/1GCamaros?sort=3&page=2

That's not unusual with old AMT kits, many of them doesn't have any numbers on the parts trees.

As I'm a construction worker I work with scales and blueprints/technichal drawings every day, so it's natural to me, the number after the : or / is the number you divide with if you want to scale down a real measurement to the scale you want it to be, and multiply the measurement from the blueprint with if you want to scale that measurement up to the measurement in the real world.

As they are for most of the former photobucket users if you don't pay them 400 bucks a year. But a topic that's over 2½ years old as this one almost never still have the pictures as they are often removed or stored at other places.

Joe asked about the K123 suspension, that kit has a Hendrickson Walking Beam, not the Air Glide 100 8-bag air suspension as the K100 Aerodyne kits. Air ride of whatever kind is also wrong if you want to do a correct replica of the Movin' On truck, it had Torsion Bar. But yes, I have also read that many KW owners has changed to Peterbilt Air Leaf as it rides a lot smoother than the old KW AG 100 and 200, nowadays Kenworth and Peterbilt share at least one of the suspensions, Peterbilt Flex Air and Kenworth Air Glide 380...different names but the same suspension.