Force

I meant stronger than the 700R4/4L60...the 400 is strong enough. The 700R4 was too weak for the 454 torque, that's why they used the 400 the first year.

I like them too. I built my first AMT truck kit back in the mid-late 70's as a teenager and several more after that, and have allways been able to put them together....challenging yes...but not impossible.

3D has the fronts and the more sportsman style Weld Magnums but not the Weld Magnum PRO rears used in the alcohol and nitro classes. Here is a couple of pictures so one can see the difference. 3D Model Specialties Magnum Wheel from Shapeways Weld Magnum PRO from the Weld Racing website As far as I know no one does correct up to date Magnum PRO's, the centers on them are solid since some years back with no holes except for the wheel studs and the center hole, the closest wheel available for models are the Pegasus/SoReal wheels with small triangularish holes between the round depressions where the lugnuts are...not correct but close, but they were correct for the time they were done. The Pegasus/SoReal wheel for comparence.

Me too!! Great start.

As far as I know no SS 454 Pickup came with 700R4 (later named 4L60-4L60-E), the 1990 model was only available with 3-speed TH 400 and the stronger 4-speed 4L80-E became available for the 1991 model year.

Well you can only do one model from most 2 'n 1 kits, it's very few you get 2 complete models.

You can only build one complete truck from the 2 'n 1 kit, so you have to decide if you want to do a day cab or sleeper cab, long or short chassis, single drive or dual drive.

Very nice!

The FE came 1958 and was made up to 1976 in several different versions and in trucks it was often called FT. The most common displacements for Ford and Mercury cars were 332, 352, 360, 361 (1958 Edsel only), 390, 406, 410 (Mercury 1966-67 and not the MEL 410), 427 and 428. For the truck FT wich was a little beefier than the regular FE were 330, 360, 361 (not the same as the Edsel 361), 389, and 391.

You are not the only one that wish this kit would come back, it was as far as I know only issued once in 1971. If you want to do one like the original from a recent reissue W925 and aftermarket parts and combine the costs I think you would come close to what an original cost.

You generally cannot tell what CID and version a FE engine is simply by looking at casting numbers without checking bore and stroke and some other things, the block castings is a mishmash of numbers and marks that can be missleading as the same casting numbers can be used for several engine versions. But most of the 406 engines has C2AE-J, C2AE-K, C2AE-V, C2AE-BD, C3AE-D and C3AE-V and they were only around about a year and a half. The 390's with casting numbers starting with C2AE were all some kind of high performance engines, the regular 390's before 1963 had C1AE casting numbers.

Of course you can use that engine if you want to but there are much better versions available. The engine on the picture above is custom with many modern aftermarket parts, the other engines you show are more close to stock but the 390's looks like HP versions, the more regular 390's have different simpler exhaust manifolds.

Late 406 blocks had cross bolted mains like the later 427 and the number of cross bolts are three on each side for the middle three main caps, the first and last don't have any. The AMT 60 Starliner 2 'n 1 and Custom kits has a very nice FE and the correct chrome plated Thunderbird and "baldie" valve covers as well as the 3X2 bbl intake system and short cast iron headers the 390 HP and 406 had, the long cast iron headers and 2X4 bbl intake system are also in these kits but they arrived with the 427, the 406 was the Ford race engine 1962 and early 63 and was replaced with the 427 well into the 1963 model year (at the same time as the fastback roof for Galaxie wich are called 1963½). Some additional information, the 406 has the same 4.13 inch cylinder bore as the 428 but the same 3.78 inch crank stroke as the 390 wich only has 4.05 bore, the 427 had a larger 4.23 bore wich were the largest on any FE but still with 3.78 stroke, the 428 wich came in 1966 was cheaper to build than the 427 had as I said 4.13 bore but 3.98 stroke...and if you put a 428 crank in a 390 you get a 410.

I don't know of any AMT 1:25 scale Kenworths with Detroit Diesel 12V-71 other than the Tyrone Malone Super Boss and Bandag Bandit, the different versions of the W925, T600A and K123 has Cummins NTA 370. AMT did 5 different versions of their K100 Aerodyne, the Tyrone Malone Papa Truck and Hideout Truck transporters, the BJ and the Bear TV show truck and two generic trucks with different decals and boxart, but all had the same Detroit Diesel 8V-92T and Allison automatic transmission as far as I know.

Otherwise you can get a spray can of Detroit Diesel Alpine Green at your local auto parts store.

I haven't seen the Pegasus (former So-Real Concepts) Magnum PRO wheels for a while, they are listed on Pegasus website but no pictures. Someone did resin copys of them but I can't recommend him and I don't even know if he still is in business. I also searched the Shapeways site but I didn't find any Weld Magnum PRO rear wheels, only Magnums for street cars.

The placing of the linkage isn't that important as you can overcome that problem quite easily if it's on the wrong side. Early Ford cars has the linkage on the passenger side, both on the 4 cylinder and the V8, same for the dual carb setup on the FE 427 as the Holley 4160 series carbs are mounted backwards so the distributor will fit, I can list more examples where the linkage not are on the drivers side but I stop here.

Here is a picture of the original issue Hideout Truck from 1981-82. The Tyrone Malone Bandag Bandit and Hideout Truck kits were only issued once so they are quite rare and expensive nowadays. The Hideout Truck is pretty much the same as the Papa Truck except for the decals and boxart so it would be easy to reissue. The Bandag Bandit on the other hand is a bit different to the Super Boss as it has a different hood and wing, the tail lights and rear panel are also different as well as the twin turbo setup on the 12V-71 engine and the exhaust pipes, the rest is pretty much the same, so hopefully Round2 will find the tool inserts for the Bandit and reissue both of these trucks soon.

You have to have the carbs backwards on the FE when you have dual carbs, otherwise you will not have any room for the distributor. The 4160 carbs have the metering block on the premium side and not on the secondary so the carbs are shorter if you turn them so the secondary ports points forward, Ford did a special throttle bell crank and axle to switch sides wich goes between the first and second carb to get it to work. A friend of mine put this setup on his 1964 390 Galaxie last winter.

Nice pictures and please post more if you have them. 1983 seems about right, The Boss Truck Of America (the truck in the first 3 pics) got this paint scheme about that time. Then you have the Super Boss, Smokey Bear Corvette and Hideout Truck wich was the transporter for the Bandag Bandit. In the second pic you can see the Papa Truck and Mama Truck transporters at the left of the Boss Truck, and a glimpse of the Bandag Bandit hood and wing directly in front of it, behind the Bandit is a glimpse of the Bandag Crew trailer, on the last pic with the Hideout Truck to the left you can also see the front of the Black Gold Chevy Pickup and the Old No 8 KW K100 truck wich pulled the Bandag Crew trailer. Tyrone Malone sold the AMT kits and Matchbox toys of his trucks at the shows together with some apparel and other things and the souvenir trailer was pulled by the Papa Truck.

For modelbuilding it doesn't matter what size the carb has, a 4150 series 650, 750, 780, 850 cfm looks the same on the outside, the differences are mostly internal. Of course there are visible differences when it comes to what type of choke it has, if it's a double pumper, vacuum secondary stage and so on. In this particular case I would go with the FMR-092 as it has the correct LeMans float bowls, and there are two carbs in a set so you can do two cars. The FMR-090 or FMR-093 is not that wrong either as they are good replacements for the LeMans bowl carbs. The LeMans bowls were Holley's first version of center hung float bowls wich are better for road course use than the side hung floats, and they were later replaced with the "Catheral" style bowls wich are easier to adjust the float level on as you do it from the outside without taking the carb appart, on the carb with LeMans bowls you have to take the bowls off and bend the float arms to adjust them.

Yes I do, As RandyD allready mentioned, Joseph at Fireball Modelworks has the best looking carburetors right now, he even have a set with the LeMans float bowls if you want that. http://www.fireballmodels.info/auto_main.html Here is his 4150 with vacuum secondarys. http://www.fireballmodels.info/images/FMR-090.jpg Here is his 4160 with vacuum seconcarys, http://www.fireballmodels.info/images/FMR-091.jpg Here is his 4150 with LeMans float bowls and vacuum secondarys, http://www.fireballmodels.info/images/FMR-092.jpg His 4150 Double Pumper, mechanical secondarys, http://www.fireballmodels.info/images/FMR-093.jpg His generic 4160 with electrical choke and vacuum secondarys, http://www.fireballmodels.info/images/FMR-094.jpg He made suggestions to what they are for but they will work fine with the Ford FE engine or any other for that matter.

Moroso also has many silvergray pans, other aftermarket pans such as Canton, Milodon, Weiand and others are also anodized in silvergray or goldish color, painted black, cast aluminum, chromed and so on. For what color to paint the oil pans depends on what I'm building. If the model is a factory stock showroom car the oil pan gets the same color as the rest of the engine if it's so on the car I'm replicating. If the model I'm doing is a customized car I can go with chrome, gold, silver or whatever I like as it's no rules there. If it's a race car I mostly go with a color the aftermarket pan has as most race cars don't use OEM pans, look for what's available on the aftermarket for the engine you are doing.

Looking good.

These are way too large for a street car, they are MSD Pro Mag magnetos used in the Alcohol, and Nitro classes. Angled boots are not that hard to make, here is a explanation on how to make them.