Mr. Metallic

Curious how QC is supposed to catch this when it appears to happen after it leaves the factory?

Ambitious project. Tired of 32's yet. I've been building them for 25 years now and still not tired.

Nice job parts swapping and great stance.

Great color combo. Nice cruiser.

The stance, wheel/tire combo and flattie really make this one. Nice job.

You're off to a good start. The proportion of the chop looks right on! Nice job sectioning the interior too. Retaining the portion of the side panels as a tab on the bottom is a smart move, one that I have used as well. Critical for keeping the side panels in the right spot.

I did just that on my current build featured in the On the Bench section by gently sanding the underside of the stanchions and making slight indentations in the cowl to give the windshield a home. About 5 minutes of work

I think what @Bernard Kron is getting at is if they were going to do a new tool of a 32 Roadster that making a miniature version of the Big Deuce would be a boon for traditional hot rod builders as far as parts content, not necessarily to build a Little Deuce itself. Even the original Little Deuce kit was not an exact copy of the Big Deuce when it could still be built that way straight out of the box. Different wheels, no quick change and a bunch of other small details (mostly made in the name of simplification I'm sure) Incidentally, I did make my own version of a 1/25 Big Deuce (not a Little deuce) a few months ago, which sticks much more closely to what was available in the BD

Yeah, except people in Rockland County consider anything north of them "upstate NY", so there are no hard and fast rules

That chop is sick! Just curious why you didn't chop it digitally before printing?

Marc is correct. Here's my personal thoughts (and of course, these are not hard and fast rules, anything can be done no matter the coast) East- sectioning and channeling West- chopping East- near level stance West- raked stance with rear higher

Be still my heart. That's awesome. Looks like I'll be adding that to my ebay wish list.

Looks like mostly the same stock as last years displays (with a couple additions)

There was a pretty in depth conversation here about the 34 kits, including the Monogram kit. I seem to recall in the various conversations I've seen here and on TRaK that the Monogram 3 window actually scales out pretty well to 1/24. I think@Ace-Garageguyeven did some real world measuring? edit- found the thread

My two local stores never saw the recent clearance that others had. The ones others said were marked down are still full price at my stores. There are quite a few empty spots though, but they are labelled for upcoming "new" kits, so that's a good sign after what seems like nearly the same stock the last 18 months.

Suspension update Since I'm using the I beam axle from the Revell A kits, I may as well use the suspension arms from that kit. The nice part is that to accommodate both highboy and channeled versions in that kit, there are 2 sets of front arms included, that leaves a second set of arms to modify for use on the back and so everything matches. To get the front set to fit the 32 frame I sanded down both sides of the mounting bracket. Then I drill a hole through where the 1:1 bolt would attach the arm to that bracket. Once that is done and I test the pin fitment I remove the pin and then, using a very small saw, sever the mounting bracket from the arm. I have done this mod several times now, and find that a photoetch blade removes the smallest kerf. Those blades come in handy for so many other things, so if you don't have one in your arsenal I would definitely invest in one. Clean up your cuts, glue the pin to the hole in the arm and then after the glue is dry slip your bracket on the pin. Now you're ready to mount the bracket permanently to the frame. Put the arm in position on the axle and then use a clamp to hold it in place. Now swing the arm up into it's proposed final location so you can see where you need to glue the bracket. I usually wait to trim the pins until final assembly, but you can do it anytime now that we have the bracket mounted. The rear is even less involved, but if you want to do the same mods to the brackets you can. I am using the molded in brackets intended for the shocks on the rear axle as my brackets for the arms. As you can see the rear spring is now pinned to a location in the faux crossmember I made earlier. This is a huge aid for repeatable mockups and a secure final assembly. Take the arms and sand off the pin that would have attached to the front axle and sand flush. Then drill a hole and insert a pin in the very center of the arm, and drill a corresponding hole in the center of the bracket on the rear axle. Sand the backside of the mounting flange on the other end of the arm, and then it's ready for mockup. I may add some small bits of plastic to either side of the brackets on the rear axle to make it look more realistic. I need to figure out a shock setup as well.

Replicas and Miniatures of Md does a beautiful setup just like that for those that are looking.

Engine mods While the kit supplied Weiland supercharger is really well done, it is not early 60's appropriate. Fortunately a readily available replacement can be found in the Revell Model A kits (the ones with the SBC, not the Nailhead) I was able to drop the blower intake right on the block from the 32 kit (as it should since they're both SBC's). I adapted the separate front cover from the A kit to fit over the molded in version in the 32. While mocking up the engine in the frame I noted that the blower belt gets really close to the front crossmember, so I shortened the snout on the blowers front cover about 1 scale inch, and sanded off the raised area on the backside of the bottom blower pulley so everything moves towards the engine to create clearance. I also removed the molded in oil pan from the 32 kit and replaced it with the separate item from the A kit. At this point you're probably thinking, why didn't I just transplant the entire SBC from the A kit. Well, that is certainly an option, but I hate messing around with motor mounts, so using the SBC from the 32 allowed the engine to still drop in. As you can see I also grabbed a manual trans from the parts box, because "real hot rods have three pedals"

First thing I needed to address was the rear height. For the initial mockup I simply flipped the axle over so the airbags were hanging down out of the way. Well apparently when I snapped the above pic the flanges for the shocks were still holding the frame artificially up in the air. Once I got into properly modifying the rear everything settled down where it belongs. See new mockup below For those of you wanting to keep things simple you can find a different way to go to backdate the rear suspension, or simply keep the airbags. Totally your call. I decided to steal the transverse buggy style spring from a Revell 30 Ford touring, and pinned it to the axle. Then I created a faux crossmember around the spring by adding a piece of .080 x .080 Evergreen strip between the frame rails. This has an added benefit of covering up the mounting holes for the kit airbags and shocks. Here's a quick summary of the minor mods I made to some of the front wheel components. To get the drum style brake to fit in the wheel without widening the track I had to remove the wheel boss from the wheel back. I also sanded off the outer edge to fit the narrower AMT tire. To get the cycle fender to fit the tire I had to remove the molded on brake disk, while retaining a portion of it to act as the bracket. I then thinned down the front side to help the bracket snug up tight against the tire. Lastly I sanded off the raised portion on the back of the Revell A sourced brake backing plate to allow it to set in the wheel assembly. If you do this take care not to sand too far because you could sand through (note how thin the plastic is in the finished piece) And now, the final stance with everything in it's true position with no supports underneath. Right where I want it. I also dug out the sweet chopped convertible top mastered by Dennis Lacy and offered by Drag City Casting. I did get some of the mods made to the engine (which will be shared later). It's sitting crooked because there is no trans crossmember yet.

Here's brief history of the 96/97 tooled Revell 32 Ford series. All of these versions are based on the same tooling. 3 window/ Dan Fink Speedwagon released near simultaneously in 1996. (Only engine option is a small block Ford) Roadster released within the next year. (Engine is still only SBF) Around 2007 they release the Special Edition sedan kit. still includes the SBF, but now also includes a flathead as well. (this kit REALLY needs to be reissued!) 2009 they release the 5 window. This version has ads a Hemi to the mix, but still also has the SBF The roadster and 3 window have seen straight reissues since their initial introduction with the only difference being decals and boxart. I'm pretty sure the 5w has not left the catalog since it's introduction in '09 In the mid 2010's Revell and Stacy David entered a partnership to produce a "replica" of the 32 roadster he was building on his TV show. Revell decided to take this opportunity to cut all new steel tooling since the original 96/97 tooling was getting "tired". All the geometry of this new tooling for the Rat Roaster was copied and enhanced from the 96/97 tooling design (especially the frame and suspensions) but with subtle improvements made, so just about every part from the older tooling kits will easily swap. However, and this has been confirmed by company reps, the RR tooling is ALL NEW. The new kit about to hit shelves is an enhancement of the RR tooling. I call it an enhancement because nearly everything from the RR tooling is still in the box, but Revell added a bunch of great new parts to the mix.

It's not on the shelves here locally either. My friend bought it online from Spotlight.

Didn't want to spend too much time trying to come up with a witty name for this one, hence the title. Anyway, thanks to my good friend Randfink, I now have the brand new release of the Revell 32 Ford roadster in my hands. This is the tooling that was released as the Stacy David Rat Roaster a few years ago. Kudos so Revell for taking the opportunity to get this kit back in the catalog now that the Stacy David licensing has expired. Double kudos to Revell for keeping all of the RR parts in the kit , rather than replacing them, they just tooled NEW trees of updated parts but still kept the RR parts in the box (with the exception of the porthole riddled hood and the glass for the chopped windshield glass). even the sweet electric guitar is still there. For those of you unfamiliar with the 1:1 RR, it is kind of a mish-mash of several different eras of hot rodding, and the end result is not everyone's taste. However, when Revell decided to partner with Stacy David to do the RR in scale, this was a boon to scale hot rodders (despite it not having the 1:1 front beam axle, but lets not go there). In order to use this tooling again Revell had to modify the look of the car to avoid copyright and royalty issues, and they took this opportunity to give us some really nice new parts. Specifically an all new traditionally styled interior, lakes style exhaust headers for the SBC, and a Duvall style windshield. Out of the box you can build a perfectly serviceable "newstalgia" style hot/street rod. But I wanted to take this opportunity to backdate it a bit to plant it firmly in the early 60's era of hot rodding. By doing some simple parts swapping from readily available sources I hope I can inspire someone else to try their hands at backdating this kit to more accurately fit one of the earlier eras of hot rodding. Lets get into it. First, here is a look at the new Duvall windshield. While observing the test shots and first box art build of this kit online I began to worry that they had designed the new windshield to be too upright. My taste (and the typical look) of a Duvall is to be raked back a bit. So, first thing I did when I opened the kit is test fir the windshield. Good news is that it looks much better than I had hoped. Not so great news is that it will be tricky to install in the optimal position since there are no positive locating points. There is a slight raised line on the cowl to show you WHERE it goes, but it is so fine that it doesn't give you a positive mounting surface. Anyway, here it is. I built this in my head over and over once I found out this kit was hitting distributors, so I had gathered a bunch of parts ahead of time. The parts included in this kit are most easily adaptable to an early to mid 60's hot rod. Of course it can go earlier or later depending on how deeply you want to swap parts. However, by the 60's Duvall style windshields had fallen out of style. Nice thing is that the chopped stock-style windshield is still in the box. I'll also be swapping out the beautifully molded, but too modern Weiland blower setup for a more era correct blower. I'll be swapping in the beam axle from the Revell Model A series. Not sure how extensive my mods into backdating the rear setup will go, but the airbags will definitely disappear. I went through a handful of wheel/tire combos. I wanted to try the beautiful new Round2 Firestone Supremes from the parts pack, but I couldn't find a good matching rear tire. The different width of the whitewall bothered me paired with these slicks. So, I swapped them out for the standard whitewall found in tons of Round2 AMT kits. Much better. And just for fun I tried some blackwall tires with the beautiful pad printed lettering giving it a definite McMullen Roadster vibe. But I decided to go with the thin whites. Then spent the rest of my evening properly modifying the tires and the 5 spoke wheels from the Revell 32 Ford series (not in the RR based tooling). The rear needs to come down a bit, but otherwise I'm definitely digging this.

FuturA Attractions- Very nice stuff. I've never ordered anything online but I have seen and purchased their products in person.

First I would take a protractor and make the angled reference lines from top to bottom so you have something to align your pleats to. You don't need to fill up the panel with lines or worry about spacing, you just need 2-3 lines as reference to help you eyeball the pleats as you install them. It will also allow you to make sure the pleats line up visually from the top of the panel to the bottom. Next cut your flat center section out of sheet Evergreen, in whatever thickness matches the thickness of the 1/2 round you are going to use. Glue that to your panel Start installing your pleats from one end, working towards the other. i only use thick super glue for tuck and roll because if you use plastic glue it will probably loosen up your previous work. Install one pleat at a time and allow a few minutes to dry between each piece. It takes a little while but is worth it.

Grills are essentially the same. I fit a first issue roadster (25 years old now ?) grill into the new shell, but I did have to make a swipe down each side with my sanding stick. Removing the chrome was enough to allow it to snuggle into the new shell. So that would mean the old shells are fractionally larger, which would allow a grill designed to fit the new shell to easily fit the old shells. If you need a new shell and/or old shell for scanning or whatever let me know.