Mr. Metallic

Is that one molded in blue, or painted. I'd love to find a molded in blue one to polish up and build.

Here's a direct link to the shop on shapeways for that designer. Cool stuff, I'll be curious to see how the ones Jon ordered fit up to the Revell kit. The designer does have them labelled as 1/24, but I guess we'll see. @Jon Haigwood, please be sure to share pics when you get the frames. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/dsdesign

Rik is still active in the car world, but sadly has left the model car hobby. If you do Facebook and/or Instagram you can find him under his own name and Custom Car Chronicles. Also the Custom Car Chronicles website. His hobby now is doing digital restyling work of traditional custom cars.

In my opinion, this is the best application possible for the Rat Roaster engine straight out of the box. Those headers always screamed Fad-T to me. And the car you built around it is spot on. Well done.

Great stance, cool wheel/tire combo

Interesting that they have the Frenzel supercharger as well. Appears as though Okey is trying to diversify, which could be a good thing for all of us.

Great color choice on the body. Curious why you painted the side of the air cleaner covers? I could be wrong, but I don't believe these are meant to replicate the open element filter type air cleaners, but the airflow comes up from underneath.

I don't think I'd go into panic mode just yet. I got mine from Spotlight Hobbies a couple weeks ago, they must be a preferred Revell dealer (didn't realize that was still a thing since Blitz took over). But they are just starting to hit most retailers right now. My LHS got them last week (picked up two more)

Curious how QC is supposed to catch this when it appears to happen after it leaves the factory?

Ambitious project. Tired of 32's yet. I've been building them for 25 years now and still not tired.

Nice job parts swapping and great stance.

Great color combo. Nice cruiser.

The stance, wheel/tire combo and flattie really make this one. Nice job.

You're off to a good start. The proportion of the chop looks right on! Nice job sectioning the interior too. Retaining the portion of the side panels as a tab on the bottom is a smart move, one that I have used as well. Critical for keeping the side panels in the right spot.

I did just that on my current build featured in the On the Bench section by gently sanding the underside of the stanchions and making slight indentations in the cowl to give the windshield a home. About 5 minutes of work

I think what @Bernard Kron is getting at is if they were going to do a new tool of a 32 Roadster that making a miniature version of the Big Deuce would be a boon for traditional hot rod builders as far as parts content, not necessarily to build a Little Deuce itself. Even the original Little Deuce kit was not an exact copy of the Big Deuce when it could still be built that way straight out of the box. Different wheels, no quick change and a bunch of other small details (mostly made in the name of simplification I'm sure) Incidentally, I did make my own version of a 1/25 Big Deuce (not a Little deuce) a few months ago, which sticks much more closely to what was available in the BD

Yeah, except people in Rockland County consider anything north of them "upstate NY", so there are no hard and fast rules

That chop is sick! Just curious why you didn't chop it digitally before printing?

Marc is correct. Here's my personal thoughts (and of course, these are not hard and fast rules, anything can be done no matter the coast) East- sectioning and channeling West- chopping East- near level stance West- raked stance with rear higher

Be still my heart. That's awesome. Looks like I'll be adding that to my ebay wish list.

Looks like mostly the same stock as last years displays (with a couple additions)

There was a pretty in depth conversation here about the 34 kits, including the Monogram kit. I seem to recall in the various conversations I've seen here and on TRaK that the Monogram 3 window actually scales out pretty well to 1/24. I think@Ace-Garageguyeven did some real world measuring? edit- found the thread

My two local stores never saw the recent clearance that others had. The ones others said were marked down are still full price at my stores. There are quite a few empty spots though, but they are labelled for upcoming "new" kits, so that's a good sign after what seems like nearly the same stock the last 18 months.

Suspension update Since I'm using the I beam axle from the Revell A kits, I may as well use the suspension arms from that kit. The nice part is that to accommodate both highboy and channeled versions in that kit, there are 2 sets of front arms included, that leaves a second set of arms to modify for use on the back and so everything matches. To get the front set to fit the 32 frame I sanded down both sides of the mounting bracket. Then I drill a hole through where the 1:1 bolt would attach the arm to that bracket. Once that is done and I test the pin fitment I remove the pin and then, using a very small saw, sever the mounting bracket from the arm. I have done this mod several times now, and find that a photoetch blade removes the smallest kerf. Those blades come in handy for so many other things, so if you don't have one in your arsenal I would definitely invest in one. Clean up your cuts, glue the pin to the hole in the arm and then after the glue is dry slip your bracket on the pin. Now you're ready to mount the bracket permanently to the frame. Put the arm in position on the axle and then use a clamp to hold it in place. Now swing the arm up into it's proposed final location so you can see where you need to glue the bracket. I usually wait to trim the pins until final assembly, but you can do it anytime now that we have the bracket mounted. The rear is even less involved, but if you want to do the same mods to the brackets you can. I am using the molded in brackets intended for the shocks on the rear axle as my brackets for the arms. As you can see the rear spring is now pinned to a location in the faux crossmember I made earlier. This is a huge aid for repeatable mockups and a secure final assembly. Take the arms and sand off the pin that would have attached to the front axle and sand flush. Then drill a hole and insert a pin in the very center of the arm, and drill a corresponding hole in the center of the bracket on the rear axle. Sand the backside of the mounting flange on the other end of the arm, and then it's ready for mockup. I may add some small bits of plastic to either side of the brackets on the rear axle to make it look more realistic. I need to figure out a shock setup as well.

Replicas and Miniatures of Md does a beautiful setup just like that for those that are looking.