Jordan White

How old was the bottle? Nick, don't let his post discourage you from using it, it's a great product that provides an excellent glossy finish. Of course, I don't use too much per model, so it's best to buy the smallest size you can find. Edit: I would think that in the bottle versus on the model would be two different things, since they are in different forms. In the bottle, it's in liquid form while on the model it's solidified and shouldn't change colors (though my chemistry is a bit rusty).

So would that be an example of "pro built"?

I find that they're a great site for styrene tubing/sheets/rods since my closest hobby store is 2 hours away.

Going to be building this kit soon and figured I'd see what some of you have done with the kit, whether stock or custom let's see it!

Make an ass out of u and...mptions?

Topic title: "What if..." Poster: "What if? What if what? Oh my god I must find out, it's driving me mad!"

I think on this forum you have to click a little arrow to the right of the thread title (that appears when you hover the pointer over the thread title) which brings up a box with the first post in it. Not as easy as the hover preview of some other forums (which I think is more to do with the forum service used), but still saves you from opening a thread you may not be interested in.

For the side trim, the simple thing to have done would have been using masking tape around the moldings since they sit above the surface of the fender. Otherwise, coming along great!

Always loved the look of it, too bad it gets blown up in the movie.

Too bad the model companies don't just have you send back the sprues so they can reuse them, and maybe give you a coupon towards your next kit.

Jalopnik is reporting that it may have been intentional in order to get insurance money so he could pay for the taxes on the car. http://jalopnik.com/5870057/did-a-man-intentionally-wreck-this-lamborghini-six-hours-after-he-won-it

Heck anything should fit, those engine bays were huge! Heck, in my old truck with a 350 I could hop in and stand around the engine to work on it!

I'm doing the same thing, cutting out the "engine" as well as the underside with the molded in exhaust. I'm building up a nice NASCAR spec GM 358ci out of an older AMT NASCAR kit. Going to build a custom grille and I'm using a set of wheels from the 1/32 Revell Ford Aeromax semi kit, since they fit perfectly in the kit tires and give it that heavy duty look (10 bolt hubs). She's gonna be getting a custom flatbed with fifth wheel in order to haul my Galaxy tri-axle trailer.

Meh, at least yours probably came with the parts tree with the grille and wheels, mine is mysteriously absent. No biggy though, it's going to be a flatbed and I'm going to build a custom grille.

Sucks cause it's a local (well 2 hours away local) store and they only had the one kit in stock when I bought it (course I know the owner so it might not be as bad getting an exchange if he gets another in stock). Hopefully they can send the tree though.

That's cool, and a good idea for something to sell. I personally wouldn't buy any since I make all my own, but for someone who doesn't have the time, patience, or skill, it would be a good buy.

Hence why I sent an e-mail to Revell about it. (Wasn't sure how to put in the entire parts tree into the online form thingy).

Oh I checked haha, and the tree is not there. The tree includes the grille and wheels, among some other parts, and those are nowhere to be found!

Anyone open their kit yet? I opened mine last night and the entire chrome tree was missing! Time to send out for a new one!

Easy enough. Find a 351 out of an F-150 and get a Vortech Supercharger from Jegs (plus some other go-fast parts), and Voila! You have your engine.

You know 90 degrees means perpendicular to the work surface right? Anywho I don't jam it at towards my thumb, but rather scrape it slowly. No blood drawn yet.

I find the easiest way to rid of mold lines without having to do extensive sanding is using a fresh xacto blade and simply scraping it against the mold line. It's hard to explain in words, but I keep the blade roughly 90 degrees to the surface and drag it towards my thumb. It will generally remove the mold line while at the same time it won't dig into the plastic and will minimize sanding needed.

Eventually I'm gonna pick one up. Will make a great fifth wheel hauler for my Galaxy Tri-axle I have yet to build.

The nice thing is how now Revell is beginning to inkstamp the copyright info, rather than having it be part of the plastic. Makes hiding it much easier.

Yup, that's what I was trying to figure out a couple weeks ago. Basically Revell messed up with the labeling of the box.