Foxer

WB Nick.

Better to paste " site:modelcarsmag.com ghosting " into Google ..

I reuse it many times. It sits in my work area in a sealed tupperware container and what's there now has been there for a year or two. It still strips fine.

good looking build

I love building cars I have owned so am up to watch yours come together. I's really difficult to make any compromises with the real thing sitting in the garage ..! Looking very good .. will be watching

A very realistic looking scene .. nice job

That came out looking wonderful! I've been eyeing the same process you did to get a '69, but just wish Revell had cast the tail lights separate from the fenders. I just hate to ruin that beautiful body just to rob the taillights.

absolutely beautiful ... Minions excluded

I've always had a soft spot for a mid-engine American car, even if not many others did to keep this one alive .. Pontiac Fiero. I always heard good things about the kit and casually bid on one .. and won! So many ways to build and customize this one .. and the kit IS spectacular! Two engines and opening hood and trunk .. and the detail engraving is so good!

Those are pretty amazing .. and an endless source of subject matter for sure!

I really don't understand all these problems with posting photos. Maybe it's all these "easy" methods people are using rather than just copy/paste that has been with us since the DOS days. I haven't had a problem posting photos since I joined 6 years ago with any of the board software. Of course, I don't use Internet Explorer first of all. And use a FREE Photobucket account to put all photos on. Then it's just a COPY/PASTE of the needed IMG code direct from there to here. How could this be any simpler. Yes, I'm sure you'll all tell me a simpler way, but mine ALWAYS works ANYWHERE, this board or any other. oh well .. have fun

as usual I've been here but haven't commented much .. only because I'm speechless!

Welcome to the forum. I was in college long ago in Angola, IN and took many drives up to your neck of the woods around Battle Creek. It was a good break from all the corn fields to somewhere reminding me of my New England woods.

It sounds like the spare has a pin at an angle rather than perpendicular .. is this it?

I agree wholeheartedly . that one is worth a build.

I had to look drawing cloth up because I never used it in my working life ... I first had drafting classes in High School in 1960. More properly called drafting linen, it was phased out in the 50's. We used mostly vellum for originals and had no drafting linen in our files dating from 1949. That could have been influenced by the fact that Crane Paper Company produced vellum in their paper mill across the street and we got it pretty reasonable as we were paper engineers and serviced their machines and buildings.

I could cut the veneer to fit but by photographing the veneer pieces I was able to get the grain smaller and closer to scale. The photos I posted of the dash are enlarged and only 1.75" long. This was about a 3" long section of the veneer so the grain fits the dash better and more to scale. The printed photos look very good .. like the polished wood in the 1:1 car. I'm also going to print the instrument faces with the wood then add the metal PE rings on top. I think this will make it all easier and look good to boot.

My wife has a Silhouette that I'm about to try on a dashboard insert. Thank's for indicating how that model does cutting plastic .. will be helpful for me. And, your frame is fantastic! My mind is racing now considering the possibilities with the Silhouette.

Me too! ehhehe I did find the holes I did in Photoshop are too large for the PE rings in the kit. They are tough to accurately measure with my calipers without distorting them since they are so thin. So I'm going to scan the PE fret and use that in Photoshop to redo the hole mask. I'm also going to try my wife's Silhouette cutter to cut them out.

You may need a large sprue to cover those lights. The idea is to sand and file them to shape then polish them with progressively finer sandpaper, like a paint polishing kit. It you can find a chunk of clear that will cover the shape and contours of the lights it can be done. I just made some contoured tailights for a 49 Merc that followed the contour of the rear fender where I cut out a hole for them. I used Bondic to easily cast them in a matter of minutes. This material is a light cured clear plasticThese also had to be sanded and polished but I an very happy with the taill light possibilities the Bondic opens up for a non-resin caster. Here's a link to a thread I posted about how I did it and other things I've used Bondic to make.

This was the best photo of a build I have going that used Krylon Satin Black and shows the sheen it has. All suspension components and the drive shafts are satin Black. The frame is Floquil Grimy Black for reference.

I'm surprised that most follow my building theory ... model car building is not all about finishing as many as you can in the shortest amount of time .. it's not even just finishing for me. I build model cars because I LIKE TO BUILD, not like to finish. I know what the finished car will look like, for the most part anyway , and I love the path getting there .. BUILDING. Once you finish, THEN there's nothing to do! If finishing many in a short time is the object, just buy snap kits and assemble.

My "old table with a draft" now supports modeling supplies ... a good change of use. And I use the straight edges of my original "2-part calculator ruler" to make straight lines on plastic sheet.

Most just use various silvers to touch up the spots where the tree attached. Various chrome silvers or a Sharpie pen work. You'll find people swearing by as many variations as there are paint brands. If it's more than just a spot, like removing mold lines I strip the chrome in a paint remover, any will do it but I use Dawn Power Dissolver to strip the clear coating under the chrome which is very difficult to get did of with most of the common paint removers. I then just use Alclad to rechrome it. I've had good luck using Alclads Black, but there are many theories on this too. This is a GMC van I had to do all the chrome on .. bumpers, grill, mirrors, antennae ...

I'd definitely try Krylon Satin Black as Mike suggests. It's my standard goto for semi-gloss black and goes on very nice from the can. Sorry I really don't know what hot rod black is ... there are thousands of shades of black