Foxer

I have one and find it's OK, but not a high quality tool. It's all plastic but it does hold the saw well enough. I do a lot of angle cuts on small pieces and I find those difficult to hold in place. I use tape to hold the piece in place many times. The best part is you can cut at any angle. If I need a "common" angle available on my aluminum miter box, I prefer to use that.

That idea sounds perfect for it.

That's one beautiful, clean build!

This is a well done design. It all flows together so well .. I especially like the shape of the bottom body curves.

I'm at a major point in this build .. the finicky engine is finally together! It just got a black wash which needs some q-tip cleanup ant some touch up but I can now move on! The sink marks on the carbs really jumps out at ya in these photos but will be more subdued as a whole and gonna just live with them. I originally thought they would end up on the inside. The body is in salt .. decided that will be the look once I decide on a final color .

I'm loving the look of that "boiler" inserted into the cab!

Who knows, but it sure is some cheap research as to what's in your regular customer's minds.

I have one of these in the works also and those doors look fantastic! ... I doubt my doors will fit a nice as you got them.

Whenever drilling holes always use a starter "hole" to prevent the drill from wandering. I use the tip of a pair of dividers but a common pin or any sharp point will do. Just push the pin into the plastic to give the drill something to grab when starting. Even with small drills I also will start with a smaller bit and progress to the final one to insure I don't wander. This is especially needed on distributors since the "shaft" you're drilling is so small. Just that poke with a pin should keep the drill true to where you want it to go.

Excellent tip. I tape or epoxy these to lengths of sprue that are clipped off the tree with a hook at the other end for hanging as the paint dries.

To be fair. I mentioned the better job at carbs done by the aftermarket. They do have the advantage of the ability to stretch the molds a bit for part release but the ones shown are obviously only two part molds. This level of detail is acceptable to me considering all the limitations mentioned in this thread. I don't think linkage should enter into this discussion as this is a whole 'nother subject. This particular carb is cast in metal impregnated resin and will polish up to look like real metal .. I haven polished the ones shown yet. .These are by Model Car Garage, but I'm not sure they still produce them.

Here's a situation where I always think I need a "third hand" ... gluing two parts together that need to be held while the glue dries enough so the parts stay aligned. With CA I always want to use my "third hand" to apply some Zip Kicker. Has anyone found these able to hold two parts aligned and tight together enough to apply some glue?

I know they can't cast something like this accurately without four part sliding molds, but a few of those bumps would be nice.

This is more a function of how the interior was molded. The one piece interiors are definitely lacking in side panel detail .. or they wouldn't come out of the mold. The ones with separate sides are pretty nice as a whole.

Yeah, but some are done pretty well so you can even drill them out for wires. Even most of the wired ones in the aftermarket just have one big hole stuffed with wires ... excepting Morgan Automotive and Replicas and Miniatures.

.. carburetors!! I never understood why these are cast so plain when I can read the numbers on speedometers. I can't think of any other part that is so badly done. Do they expect they will all be covered by a massive air filter? I have seen some aftermarket carbs that ARE nicely done .. so why can't the model car makers do the same? Sorry about this .. was just looking thru kit boxes on a carb hunt recently .. I didn't win.

Must have been colored wires before '76. I had a '77 Porsche 924 that had one of the first Callaway turbos on it and it could ONLY use red (high temperature) wires on it. The red hot turbo was so close to the wires even cheaper red wires would melt. I know this is more than just color for show, but ..

Grats, Charlie!

I've thought about getting one of these too, but so far I'm not convinced. I'd expect to need one WHEN I need a third hand, but no ones given any example when they are indispensable. How about a few situations when you use them?

Those photos make me think you drove it . along with the build quality!

Here's a few links that show some of his products: http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/1/2/1/after-market-source/replicasminiatureof/page2.html http://public.fotki.com/davetoups/aftermarket_model_parts/replicas_and_miniat/ http://public.fotki.com/crstan/replican-and-miniat/replicas-and-miniat/

I'm sure you'll get plenty of ideas here, Nick, but since I'm first I'll just add some. The actual tube should be of a diameter to match a typical steering column, of course. The steering wheel end could ne plain or the diameter increased to match the wheel you're using. Maybe a short piece of the next size tube that will slip over and putty to smooth the transition. The business end connecting to the steering box can be a complex or as simple as you desire. It wouldn't even be visible sitting on the shelf. Some small bits of plastic can make it look realistic. Hope this addresses your specific concerns.

I like the lines on that

It's either the first Areo Van or Taco Truck

I'm still watching .. wonderful stuff going on here!