spkgibson

Hey George 53, How about sending me one of them, I'm an advid Duster,Dart and Demon collector, I always wanted a Nice 70 Dart Swinger, What do you need 2 of those for? Share the wealth Brother.

They were also made as a police car molded in white , They had an electronic flasher unit inside for the kid's, They also had stick on decals for Springfield, Wisconsin, I have one of those and 2 of the Taxi's ,Those were molded in yellow, If you are looking for one, As you live in Saginaw,Michigan, Look up Dean's Hobby Stop online, Go into the revell kits, And you should find one, I was looking on there just the other day , And he had them F/S for around $15, It would be worth the 45 minute drive to his shop, You can find almost anything there , His shop is in Flushing ,Michigan. MrObsessive is correct about the taxi , And to the person that built this model,Very Nice Job ,I have had one in the works for awhile , But keep putting it away. Very cool car, And that color looks great on it.

Yes I remember that car, I also have that issue sitting on my desk, Alot of work went into that car he did.

Greg, This looks more correct then the other yellow, That one has to uch of an orange tint to it, Thats just my oppinion, You could have saved alot of money on paint also, They make the daytona yellow in the testors 2 part laquer line, Also when painting a bright color like you have here, It's best to use a white primer. Gray and Yellor rarely mix, There is always some bleed through, But the hood looks great. Trying to paint most light colors over gray is a pain, I'm lazy, I just prime the parts with white , Wet Sand, Then shoot on 3 mist coats , And one heavy coat. Let the paint gas out for about a week , Then rub it out with some rubbing compound with an old flannel shirt. Told you I'm lazy.

I am wondering what kind of primer you're using? I use the primer sealer first, By duplicolor, Then mist on 2-3 light coats of the sandable primer made by them. I wet sand it after the last coat. Then mist on the first coats of color, Let them dry or gas out for about an hour, Then proceed to the heavy gloss coats. I have had the same problem, And it frustrates the heck out of me. So I tryed that method, And it seemed to work the best for me, The tamiya primers are great for the automotive enamels, But not the Laquers, It's trial and error sometimes, Untill you find the best combonation of primers that work the best, I explained how I do my priming , Yes it seems like you would want to do it the other way around, But thats how it works for me, Another way is to seal the plastic with 2 light coats of tamiya primer, Then use the sealer , And finish it off with the sandable primer, Wet sand it with a 1800 grit polishing cloth on the rubber block that comes in the kit, Then shoot your color. Sounds confusing, But I have had no problems using this method. I hope this helps, I love that color on that car.

Yeah 45 Minutes south of where you're at, I live in Swartz Creek Now. I just moved there in September.

I second that statement.

Here is the photos of one all cleaned up, And Mocked up, The tires are from the original AMT compact kits, I found those in the parts boxes at Dean's Hobby Stop ,Out by where I live, Back to the Car, There wasn't one flaw in this casting at all, I just had to do very little minor sanding on the bottom, Thats it, This is the Extreemly high quality of all of the resin kits they make. On to the Photos. All you need to finish the car is the Tires. Thats it.

Thats not something you see everyday. Very Cool Project.

This is just an example of my 71-72 Demon Stash, Most are resin, The blue one is an original I'm need to finish up. And my Duster Promo Collection.

Hey Mark what do you want for the Snap Cuda? I have alot of GM stuff i'll never build. Send me a PM with your wants, Only if you want to trade it off .

Well after a rough week , I will be starting back up on this, I hope to get the dash done, And start parts to start on the 318 .

Come on guys, Lets not have a war of words start up again, I have read through this entire thread, You have to relize that not everyone will see eye to eye on particular statements , Or comments ,Or even new kit ideas for that matter, But when some people try to belittle you on certain topics, Thats showing a lack of respect for you, And shows just the type of person they truly are. If You want respect from others give it , If you're unable to do so , Then keep your dirt to yourself, And get it worked out in PM's not for the entire forum to read. That type of behavior is making a mockery out of this forum, And personally I'm suprized alot of the people that do so haven't been banned off of here, This supposed to be about building models ,Giving tips, And enjoying the hobby, Not a slam fest , No one in this entire world is better then anyone else, We are all human beings , And breath the same air. Yes there is alot of more experienced modelers on here, But lets not let the Egos get in the way, I enjoy looking at EVERYONES work on here, If I make a mistake in a build i'm working on, Please tell me so I can figure out a way to rectify the flaws, And make a much better build, Alot of people on here are just to thin skinned. And by no means what so ever am I derecting my statements at anyone. Enjoy the hobby. And knock off all the drama that goes on. It's not helping matters at all, You will run into rude people everywhere you go, And just because you can hide behind a computer does'nt give anyone the right to sit here and slam people, If that type of behavior was done in person there would be alot of problems in the world. And also you cannot change someones oppinion on certain issues they are intitled to it, It's called freedom of speech , I think thats in the constitution if i'm not mistaking. I wrote my Novel for the day, Get along guys!

Well sometimes you have to take into consideration, That one it depends on what type of day you are having, Or if you have some personally issues going on at the the time, I'm guilty of acting a fool sometimes, But there is no reason to be nasty with anyone on here at all, Its a hobby we all love to do, The nonsense that goes on , Sometimes makes me wonder if alot of people on here need to think about what they are typing before hitting add reply,Furthermore I see alot of people on here just trying to get under your skin, You have to just let it go. If you have an issue with that person, Try to resolve it in a civil manner in PM's , Don't put your dirt out there for everyone else to read, There is also a law against cyber bullying. Just like anywhere else with online forums , Its not allowed , Nor should it be allowed. Having your own oppinion is your choice, But if it gets out of hand , Step away from the keyboard and think before you post slandering comments to kill someones charactor. It not only hurts that person, But also makes you look like a complete fool.

What is the cost for the entire kit with th plated bumpers? As soon as I get things right finance wise I would like to place an order for one.

Run the parts under hot water for a few seconds to soften the resin, And bend it back to shape, It will save you alot of frustration , You normally have to do that from time to time with warped resin parts, It works great, Just be VERY carefully you dont burn your hands on the hot water ,And don't keep the resin under the hot water to long, Or you will ruin the part.

Very cool Caine, I have 2 of the original MPC kits, But I'm afraid to build those,As they are so expensive , Thats a Resin kit by our buddy, Correct? Nice casting, And off to a great start, I'll be watching this one for sure. That paint job looks great!

Not a problem ,Glad to help, even if you use the method in the future.

I can't wait to see color on it, the whole thing looks better then that resin body I have. That hood turned out great.

I will be putting this on hold, My wife and I have had a family emergency come up. I can't go into details about it. I'll get back to work on it as soon as I can.Right now taking care of her is more important to me then models. Any questions send me a PM.Thanks Steve K.

Nick that Frosted Teal wasn't available on the A,B And E-Bodies. Only on the C-body cars. Here is the color chart for the Barracuda.

Here is the photo of the real interior , The seat patterns are really close, So that is how I'm doing it.Besides it's not easy at all to kitbash a 70 Barracuda interior, So, I'll go with the one I have mocked up. Now if I could find the houndstooth decals for the seat inserts.

The best way to fix somthing like this is to Mix up Super Glue and Baby powder, to the consistancy of testors tube glue, Then with a toothpick flow it into the recess, And when it drys it's hard as a rock, and then Put a light glaze of your favorite body putty,On the topside of the hood, I always use the Bondo Spot filler type, The one part, I have always had great results with that stuff, The 2 part also works great, You can sand that type after about 20 to 30 minutes. Think of what you're doing as filling a sinkhole. Try it that way, And you should be able to save that hood, I would suggest that you strip the entire hood, Use that method I just explained , And you should have no problems at all with it. I do that to every hood I have with those score lines underneith them, I haven't had any issues with them so far.Liquid Cement is the worst thing you can use, As it will eat through the hood or warp it beyond repair. It will do what I call potato chipping. In other words curl up like one, even if its flat, A few months down the road it will change shape.And curl up, I used to have that happen all the time,Untill I learned how to use the method I explained to you, I hope this helps, This is to nice of a build you have going to have the hood mar it.

I got some work done on the interior and got the donor chassis stripped, I hate Testors Flat Black Spray Paint, It took 2 days for that stuff to come off in the Scale Coat Stripper. Anyways the first 2 photos are of the car mocked up, And the extra parts Reliable Resn sent me along with the rest of the body kit, Both rear roll pans, And the rest of the other parts included, Just to show the quality, The next 3 are of the interior , And the base model dash cluster I still need to graft into the Jo-Han dash. The interior was made up of AMT 71 Duster seats, The rear seat was cut out and narrowed out of a resin MPC 71 Duster/Demon interior tub Made by Missing Link, I had an extra one to do so, I reserched the interior and the seat patterns are correct. The only mods I had to do to the Jo-Han interior was cut out the wheel arches in the back seat area, And the parts fit right in, The top of the seat was rounded off with a sanding stick, And thinned fron underneith so it would sit flush , The console is cut out of an extra 74 AMT Road Runner interior and sanded to fit the transmission tunnel.The Chassis has the mounting posts cut out a 74 Cuda snap body to level off the stance of the car.

I bought a 1968 Coronet back in 1999.It is made by The Modelhaus, I haven't even touched it ,It has been moved around a number times, Been in different tempertures, Ect,Ect, Anyways, The car is still in the same condtion as the day I bought it, The same with the 68 Torino Hardtop I also bought at the same time. No warpage at all, As far as the Bandit Resins 71 Demons I own, I have had those for over 2 years, They are in the same condition as the day I got those also, Who made that body? I could use it to cut up , And make the 1969 Coronet 500 out of, All I would need that body for was the scallops in the rear quarters to blend into my MPC 69 Coronet kit.