Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Chuck Most

Members
  • Posts

    12,875
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Chuck Most

  1. The Color Place stuff? If so, I've never had much luck with that- pretty much what Tim described, no coverage. Seems kind of 'watery', no matter how long you shake the can. Ditto the 'Miracal' stuff sold at Dollar General, and the 'Brite Touch' stuff from Advance. This isn't a universal thing, mind you, but with those paints it seems like a 50/50 shot as to whether or not the coverage will be any good. At least with the flat and semi gloss black colors- I've used other colors by Color Place, Miracal, and Brite Touch, and they seemed to work pretty well. Krylon Rust Tough is my main flat/semigloss black of choice. While I've had all kinds of coverage problems with Krylon's indoor/outdoor stuff, I've never had such a problem with the Rust Tough line. Covers very well in relatively few coats, and is quite durable.
  2. OR... You could apply the foil, cut out a piece of it in the 'footprint' of the mirror stand, and remove that piece of BMF, so you'd have exposed plastic to glue the mirror onto. You'd still have the foil where you wanted it, but because the foil is gone from the gluing surface, the potential problems gluing the piece to the foil itself are solved.
  3. There he is! And he's got a sweet '49 Ford that's this months TRAK Kustom of the Month.
  4. Ah... I see. In that case, gluing them on then painting with Alclad makes the most sense. Probably not what you want to hear, since you don't want to glue them to a painted body, then paint the mirror stand, but that would be what I'd do in this particular case.
  5. Could you apply the aluminum directly to the piece, then BMF over it? I think that's the way I'd go, unless the aluminum piece is excessively thick.
  6. It will, but if you bump or jar whatever is glued to the BMF, it'll peel off and take a pretty good chunk of the foil with it, no matter how well it's applied. Trust me on that...
  7. Seems like a pretty well preserved first-gen Taurus to me. Wonder what's wrong with it. I wouldn't abandon one that nice!
  8. Looks like you have a pretty good setup going. Oh, and I like the color combo on the Pontiac's interior!
  9. You are very welcome, Mr. Gardner. But I'll pass on the coffee and have a Moon Mist or Dos Equis instead!
  10. Monte- these were okay to spray right out of the bottle. Not sure if that would always be the case, but for me it worked okay. Mark- those are rust spots, accomplished with the good old salting technique. I went a little lighter on it than I normally do- a blackwash and some Rustall later on will complete the effect. If I'd planned ahead a bit better I would have sealed the hull red so I could do a little further sanding to distress the silver and green areas. So, no 'splatter' isn't quite what I was going for! And as far as thinned lacquer back in the bottle, believe me, I learned that lesson a long, long time ago!
  11. The only time not reading the destruction sheet ever befuddled me was with a snap kit! It was soooo... simple once it was pointed out to me. Long story short- there ARE mounting tabs for the rear part of the chassis on the new AMT Impala NASCAR stock car kits, and the chassis SHOULDN'T just flop down when you pick the car up like mine was... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=36800
  12. Didn't have to thin them at all- just mixed and poured into the airbrush bottle. Tamiya does make a thinner for them, but they can be thinned with water if needed. They seem to work well as brush paint, too. I was really suprised how well they covered, and how well the surface self-leveled.
  13. Funny, I've been building models for over two thirds of my life already (23 years, if you must know), and today I reached a milestone. I painted my first body entirely with an airbrush. And to sweeten the pot, all the paints used were Tamiya acrylics, which I literally started using just last week! Body- MPC '32 Chrysler Imperial Phaeton cut down into a truckster tub. Colors used- XF-9 Hull Red (base coat, touch up in spots inadvertently sanded down to bare plastic), XF-56 Metallic Grey, and a touch of X-15 Light Green above the beltline. Not sure if it was beginner's luck or if those pots of Tamiya paint really are as bonehead-proof as everyone claims they are, but I dare say it turned out presentable enough. Yeah, I know some of you are thinking "Huh. Big deal." But I think I just beat another level!
  14. Oh, no, it's there- the boom is visible just above the stake sides, the legs for it are on the same sprue as the stake sides, and the crank is just between the chassis and firewall. The hook and taillamps for the boom are on the chrome sprue. Weird how they scattered the parts for it in so many places, but that's how they did it! One more little aside- previous issues had the Goodyear slicks, those are absent from this issue, only the stock Armstrongs are included. Here's a mid 90's issue for comparison. The earlier '90's issues, IIRC, had no stake bed and a tuck and roll pattern on the tonneau cover. Later ones like shown in the link had twin 'blade' spoke billet wheels, and the tonneau engraving was changed to a vinyl snap texture. http://public.fotki.com/ChuckMost/kit-contents/lindberg/lindberg-34-ford-pickup/
  15. Never been married, never want to get married ('cuz then comes the kids and the minivan and the white picket fence and all that stuff just appals me...), but the girlfriends I've had have always been at least tolerant of it. Most of my female friends are into it to, even if they don't build themselves or even understand the 'why' part. Then again, none of them have actually lived with me, so maybe that's why! And Charlie, other than the 'masonry' part, that's my mentality as well!
  16. ^What he said, with the caveat that the Goodyear Gatorback tires are not included. Here's what comes in the kit- http://public.fotki.com/ChuckMost/kit-contents/lindberg/34-ford-coca-cola-s/
  17. I always glue the wheels solid! And I'm a stickler for a nicely detailed engine, even if the car has a hood, but I pay no attention at all to chassis detail!
  18. I do rather like the approach Round 2 took with this particular kit- using simple die cut pieces and an existing amber sprue to provide a few building options. And tooling for bed mounted tow booms and snowplows already exists... who knows? I, for one, would be all over it!
  19. Settling into new digs as far as my work area goes. Not getting much done, because I intentionally left enough room on the bench for the laptop... But I did see a cool old Pinto wagon, AND a Scout II (the official Bigfoot hunting rig)... I've managed to put up a tack board, to help utilize some of that wasted wall space and keep stuff off the bench and out of drawers- And projects? Yeah, I've got a few of those... Somehow I ended up with one of Dr. Cranky's unwanted projects, a '51 Chevy hardtop A Turbine powered Beetle, which will probably become some kind of post Apocalyptic ride... '32 Chrysler Truckster tub... And the beginnings of a beater, rat rod... '95 Toyota Supra????
  20. Loved seeing it go together, love seeing the end result!
  21. And here's the rest... The box top- The 'hard parts'- Etc...
  22. Almost want to try it in 1:1.
  23. Amazing doesn't even begin to describe it!
  24. Cool! All that's missing is a Dodge Warlock!
×
×
  • Create New...