Chuck Most

Whoa! A veritable minefield of ejector pin circles! I think I'd solve that by not using the fenders and making my own floor.

As far as vendors go, I have had great luck with Steve Kohler at STAR Models. No, I take that back, luck has nothing to do with it- Steve runs his business efficiently. He says something to the effect of "We don't take your money and make you wait weeks and weeks". Just ask him if he has it in stock, and if he does, you'll TYPICALLY have it in within a week, if he doesn't have it he'll tell you, and let you know when he gets it in. As far as buying direct from casters, I cannot fault Bandit Resins, Replicas And Miniatures Company of Maryland, Time Machine Resin, Motor City Resin Casters, Modelhaus, Promolite 2000, and Jimmy Flintstone. No serious issues with any of them, and when something cropped up, it was dealt with in a professional manner. Hope to add a few more to this list in the near future!

You probably won't be totally satisfied with your R&R casting, but I can personally guarantee you you'll be very pleased with Steve. I would never hesitate to reccomend him to anyone.

I'd say about 14/20 hours. I try to do something model related every day. Today all I did was desprue, clean up, and paint two 1930's headlamps and install the lenses. If I have the day off work and don't feel like doing something outdoors (rainy, too hot, etc.), I might spend the full day working on models if I don't have any other commitments or plans for the day, but I'd say I probably average two or three hours a day in a typical week.

Strange... tomorrow is LeBron James day. Everyone gets to leave work 12 minutes early.

Wow... it has been years since I've heard anyone refer to a Lozier! Love the stock one you built, the racer should be just as sweet.

I'd also say clearcoat, but avoid the automotive types! If the paint they're using is the same as what RC2 used on its predec kits, it will melt the paint. (Ask me how I came across THAT little tidbit! )

People have been asking for one since the droptop kit popped, I'd be more suprised if Revell ignored the hardtop version.

Already a tenfold improvement over the original kit! The extra updated NASCAR parts will look awesome in this car.

Spam indeed... though some speculate it's actually a she in the footage. Or an abnormally tall man with a strange gait in a fur suit...

Normally I would, but I kinda screwed my beverage budget for this month! x2 if it glows in the dark.

Rob- there isn't Fusion primer. Krylon's big pitch with it is that it can be applied to any plastic without the need for primer. It does work pretty well on MOST of the styrene kits out there, but it can craze some. Not sure if it's enamel or lacquer- most other Krylon paints are acrylic enamel.

Good point... I suppose it wouldn't be an issue, unless you were in some kind of hurry. Aaron- I've had the same experience with most of the fusion paints... except Olive Drab. I've used that on numerous styrene bodies with no adverse effect. At least none yet!

The Color Place stuff? If so, I've never had much luck with that- pretty much what Tim described, no coverage. Seems kind of 'watery', no matter how long you shake the can. Ditto the 'Miracal' stuff sold at Dollar General, and the 'Brite Touch' stuff from Advance. This isn't a universal thing, mind you, but with those paints it seems like a 50/50 shot as to whether or not the coverage will be any good. At least with the flat and semi gloss black colors- I've used other colors by Color Place, Miracal, and Brite Touch, and they seemed to work pretty well. Krylon Rust Tough is my main flat/semigloss black of choice. While I've had all kinds of coverage problems with Krylon's indoor/outdoor stuff, I've never had such a problem with the Rust Tough line. Covers very well in relatively few coats, and is quite durable.

OR... You could apply the foil, cut out a piece of it in the 'footprint' of the mirror stand, and remove that piece of BMF, so you'd have exposed plastic to glue the mirror onto. You'd still have the foil where you wanted it, but because the foil is gone from the gluing surface, the potential problems gluing the piece to the foil itself are solved.

There he is! And he's got a sweet '49 Ford that's this months TRAK Kustom of the Month.

Ah... I see. In that case, gluing them on then painting with Alclad makes the most sense. Probably not what you want to hear, since you don't want to glue them to a painted body, then paint the mirror stand, but that would be what I'd do in this particular case.

Could you apply the aluminum directly to the piece, then BMF over it? I think that's the way I'd go, unless the aluminum piece is excessively thick.

It will, but if you bump or jar whatever is glued to the BMF, it'll peel off and take a pretty good chunk of the foil with it, no matter how well it's applied. Trust me on that...

Seems like a pretty well preserved first-gen Taurus to me. Wonder what's wrong with it. I wouldn't abandon one that nice!

Looks like you have a pretty good setup going. Oh, and I like the color combo on the Pontiac's interior!

You are very welcome, Mr. Gardner. But I'll pass on the coffee and have a Moon Mist or Dos Equis instead!

Monte- these were okay to spray right out of the bottle. Not sure if that would always be the case, but for me it worked okay. Mark- those are rust spots, accomplished with the good old salting technique. I went a little lighter on it than I normally do- a blackwash and some Rustall later on will complete the effect. If I'd planned ahead a bit better I would have sealed the hull red so I could do a little further sanding to distress the silver and green areas. So, no 'splatter' isn't quite what I was going for! And as far as thinned lacquer back in the bottle, believe me, I learned that lesson a long, long time ago!

The only time not reading the destruction sheet ever befuddled me was with a snap kit! It was soooo... simple once it was pointed out to me. Long story short- there ARE mounting tabs for the rear part of the chassis on the new AMT Impala NASCAR stock car kits, and the chassis SHOULDN'T just flop down when you pick the car up like mine was... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=36800

Didn't have to thin them at all- just mixed and poured into the airbrush bottle. Tamiya does make a thinner for them, but they can be thinned with water if needed. They seem to work well as brush paint, too. I was really suprised how well they covered, and how well the surface self-leveled.